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***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)***

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NewYorkIslander, Dec 7, 2010.

  1. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Well-Known Member

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    You ain't kidding...imagine of you lived down the block.

    On a side note, Mike and the gang are going to KILL me, I just bought a bunch of vintage overcoating that may even be heavier than the last piece I did with him. One will most certainly be a great coat, but the other (this is double faced Holland and Sherry, one side Blue and Grey Houndstooth, the other a grey/blue twill) I'm thinking of something more casual. What do you guys recommend?
     
  2. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

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    Heavier than the Capone coat? Are you moving a few thousand miles north?
     
  3. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Well-Known Member

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    One of these may just be heavier, and may even be 20 years older. The Capone Coat was from 1936, I haven't dated the cloth yet, but I could conservatively say that the cloth could easily be from the 1920s. Here's a shot:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Detmer started in 1885 and moved from Manhattan to Brooklyn in 1909 after a fire in their Manhattan offices. I bought this piece at the same place on Delancey where I got the CC. I'm basing the date on the handwriting "Sponged", the wear on the Detmer Tag and the sheer weight of the cloth. What really gets me about this very old overcoating was that my Uncle, Vincenzo Dondiego, was one of America's best coat makers in the 1920's and 1930s (he had a list of celebrity clients topped by Flo Ziegfeld himself) but eventually killed himself in 1931. To think that he may have had something like this in his capable hands that long ago, and then being able to wear a similarly made coat, gives me goosebumps.

    Its a beautiful Espresso Brown color with a subtle herringbone.
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Make a suit out of it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

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    I love the color on that. Would love to find the same type of color in a barley corn for a great coat. I'm assuming this was purchased along with the fabrics you picked up for the ties? Glad to see that Yellow Hook isn't holding you back from Frank too much haha.

    How about a fly front chesterfield for something different?
     
  6. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    Tell us more about Delancy
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    This isn't The London Lounge.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    ^Well-played, good sir.
     
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    It is a street.
     
  10. Ennius

    Ennius Well-Known Member

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    Gents,

    I am interested in trying Mr. Ercole for the first time. It sounds like I could save some money going to go to their Brooklyn site instead of the Manhattan one?

    Any general guidance on how to approach this? I havent used a MTM/Bespoke tailor before...
     
  11. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    I haven't noticed a difference in price depending on the location. Have you?
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I am not sure that the price is any different anymore. I couldn't be sure. You would save money by going to brooklyn and selecting a fabric off of his wall rather than ordering from a book in Manhattan.
     
  13. DLJr

    DLJr Well-Known Member

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    Regardless, if you do choose to use Ercoles, I would suggest going to the Brooklyn store for the bolts of fabric as PBooth mentioned. At the very least, it's a better education on fabric than the Manhattan shop would be if this is all new to you.
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I think it is safe to also note that there is a difference between a suit made by Frank and a suit made by Ercole. Both get the job done, however Ercole is much more set into his house style and would be more difficult to get to do something he doesn't want to do. I have suits made by both Frank and Ercole. Basically Ercole likes structure and a very clean chest and roped shoulders. While Frank can do this, his stuff if you don't give him any input will come out looking like the "wedding" suit that somebody posted recently. Kind of middle of the road structure and shoulder, however Frank is much more willing to make a softer garment, unpadded shoulders, drapey chest various shoulder treatments. Ercole is unconvinced this is what is proper in a suit these days.
     
  15. Ennius

    Ennius Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Gents for the input.

    A few questions:

    What roughly is the price for suits and trousers?

    PB - you had some pictures of a sweet grey suit in the first several pages of this thread. I like the trim look but probably with just a bit more space. Was that made by Frank? How did you guide him to that style? I have a Phineas Cole suit that I like - should I wear that in and suggest it as a decent starting point for discussions?

    Thoughts on the price/quality tradeoff on fabrics as I an a relative newbie. I have seen a few super 160/180s with 5% cashmere that looked great - do people think its worth a few hundred for top of the line fabric? What are good fabrics for spring/summer?

    Great thread.
     
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I don't like quoting prices to people for several reasons, it would be best to call and ask about pricing.

    If you like Phineas Cole stuff either one of them can do that very well. I would start with the basics, type of lapels, slanted pockets, ticket pocket, how long you want the jacket and how structured you want the chest and shoulders.

    I personally, would not buy any suit made in a super over 120's. Generally, and there are exceptions higher super numbers means soft and luxe, however they don't hold up as well. Either Ercole or Frank can guide you through that. I would honestly ask them about what fabrics you should get. There is the unfunded liabilities thread for talking about fabrics and there is just too much to go on about in brevity.

    Also, I suggest you don't get an extreme suit as your first bespoke suit. Get a solid navy or charcoal conservatively styled suit.

    By the way if you like that grey suit at the beginning of this thread, I am actually selling it on B&S...
     
  17. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Well-Known Member

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    +1 on quotes, call em up or talk price there. Sometimes a price can vary greatly depending on cloth selection.

    I dont like all that super 100s crap...sure its soft and luxurious, but that kind of suit wont hold up as well as other more sturdy cloths.

    They're super friendly there, Id just take the ride and check it out, its what I did when I first started going. And I never looked back.
     
  18. Ennius

    Ennius Well-Known Member

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    Thanks PB.

    I have tomorrow off so I will try to head down to their Brooklyn shop to learn about the specifics.

    Good call on the conservative suit. These days I am really into the basics - charcoal would probably be my preference for the first. I am usually business casual and also need several trousers for the spring/summer. Maybe I will get a few trousers first to see how the process works. I will keep in mind your suggestion on not going above 120s due to durability which is important to me as I cannot afford high end stuff than wears out quickly.

    I appreciate the lead on the suit but am focused more on trying bespoke currently.

    They do shirts, too? Any thoughts on their shirts?
     
  19. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Quote:Why are you selling that suit?
     
  20. ddgdl

    ddgdl Well-Known Member

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    I have 3 of their shirts. They are, by far, my nicest and best-fitting shirts (though that is perhaps to be expected). Be warned, however, that you should know what collar type you want going in- otherwise Jeremy will push to towards the widest spread collar he can until you beg for mercy [​IMG].
     

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