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O’Mast Screening

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by robin, Nov 30, 2011.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, Royal Air Mail has always taken forever in my experience. I have never had anything lost, but it does take some time.
     
  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Finally had a chance to watch O'Mast this weekend. Its an enjoyable hour on a subject many / most of us find fascinating. That being said, its not much of a documentary and the director's inexperience is evident. Unlike the Savile Row mini-series developed by the BBC (admitted longer in length and developed by 'professionals') there was no real coherent theme, story or takeaway from O'Mast. The end result sadly feels a bit discombobulated.

    O'Mast is essentially just a series of standalone interviews with the major tailors in the city on a few pet topics (how they got into tailoring, the Neapolitan style, what is style etc.) - this leads to a repetitive work that is nonetheless interesting but sadly unfulfilling. I can't help but think of lost opportunities here. Imagine if the director had chosen to adopt the BBC template - what is Neapolitan tailoring style? how do they deal with customers? how do they make money in a fast-paced world? international clients? what is the future of the trade?

    Anyhoo, despite the babbling its worth the $25 but not much more. I may resell mine on B&S - unlike the BBC SR documentary, this isn't one I expect to watch again.
     
  3. andreyb2

    andreyb2 Well-Known Member

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    I mostly agree with what ET said.

    There are loads of loosely structured philosophy in O'Mast. Granted, one has to have passion to be a great tailor, but it is simply too boring to hear this again and again. There are some interesting moments (for example, their view on English colleagues is amusing), but mostly vague reflections on vague matters.

    On the other hand, when compared with BBC's series, love and passion (again this word! :() for the subject matter is evident. "Jazzed" interludes are superb. Alas, there is simply too little of them.

    Andrey
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
  4. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Here are the points I took from the video.

    1) Ciardi : "The famous "mappina" sleeve was slowly, in Naples, like with so many things it became overdone, exaggerated, extreme, and it became a ruffled sleeve, out of place, but once it was tidy, a little abundant, light and that's all."

    2) Regarding the jacket and the long front dart. Sabino: "This is the Neapolitan jacket, a shirt sleeve, very soft and light, which is weightless when worn. . . Another characteristic is this tuck, which is very long in the front, and makes the jacket veer."

    Also from Leonelli: "It was Vincenzo Attolini who modified it. Until he came along, jackets were like bricks, but he created many things. For example the tuck used to go to the pocket, but he lengthened it all the way. Then he made jackets soft, he eliminated the haircloth that went in front. "

    This I find interesting because Sator has argued that the long front dart is an unnecessary relic of the past - the dart going to the pocket is sufficient to create shape. But from the interview it sounds like the long front dart is necessary also to create the longer front and slight veering appearance of the coat.

    3) The best part of the movie is being able to see the different jacket styles during movement and sitting. IMO there is only so much you can get out of the "robo-pose" pics.

    4) Of all the coats, I liked Panico's the most. He trained with Blasi and was head cutter for Rubinacci, but yet his shoulder style is different from both.

    5) I also love this quote from Panico, "The Neapolitan customer loves tailoring, he's enthusiastic about tailoring and you can tell by the way he gives suggestions to the tailor. So, he can say: "I told the tailor what to do!" This is the maximum excitement for the a Neapolitan customer. It is a kind of illness." :laugh:

    I have no idea where these customers could possibly lurk. :hide:
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  5. point1

    point1 Member

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    I must say I loved the film, and I have already watched it several times (and I've had it for less than a week). You really get a feel of how the tailors work and neapolitan tailoring in my opinion. However I would have liked it there to be at least some extra material on the DVD, for example they could have a feature similar to a how stuffs made, where they follow a suit from the customer orders it. Also the extra material could have dealt with the more practical things like international clients. I do believe you got a feeling of how the relationship between customer and tailor worked. The music and scenes from Napoli are stunning.

    I would highly recommend it.

    Only downside is I can't stop thinking how much I want a tailored suit from one of those tailors :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
  6. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Panico was my favorite. The man has real swagger.
     
  7. kid dandy

    kid dandy Member

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    Mr. "Eustace",
    I'm sorry you couldn't enjoy my film O'mast and I'm sorry it didn't fulfilled your expectations of something more similar to the BBC series on Savile row. It was my directorial choice not to make it any similar in structure and contents. Those are two different realities, different styles, lifestyles and so on. One of the biggest difference is the reason why I made it compared to the BBC reasons and it's out of passion, a word that Mr. Andrey seems not to stand anymore. I'm myself a bespoke enthusiast, customer since when I was 18 and Neapolitan born and what I wanted to do was an homage to a Neapolitan excellence .
    Being a professional filmmaker I decided to produce and direct a film that was telling a story from an inside point of view. I don't pretend it to be appreciated by anyone , it would be too much, but I will never understand why someone that doesn't like a film has to judge in a such arrogant way, defining "unexperienced" the director. I have to assume your film background must be very consistent to make you judging in such a secure way.

    Thank you for having had the patience to watch it.


    Gianluca Migliarotti
     
  8. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
  9. toscano_adottato

    toscano_adottato Well-Known Member

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    Signor Migliarotti è meglio che lei non legga questo thread. Ci sarà sempre chi critica solo per il piacere di fare il bischero o il sapientone. Pero, alla fine, questo tipo non ha fatto un film perchè non sa niente nè del cinema nè della sartoria Napolitana. Magari ha qualce vestito, ma probabilmente è consapevole del soggetto soltanto perche legge qui. Esperienze vicarie...è questo che lei troverà qui.

    Lei il film l'ha fatto invece e del risultato godono tante persone. I critici qui non le possono suggerire niente. Se qualcuno qui volesse discutere i dettagli del film, potrebbe contattarla via messaggio privato. Altrimenti, la consiglio di evitare il thread, che con il passar del tempo si riempirà con post pieni di stupidaggini and tentative di farle incazzare.

    Solo un suggerimento da parte di uno a cui è piaciuto molto il brano del trailer. Aspetto ancora che arrivi il DVD.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
  10. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply.

    First, on the matter of calling you 'inexperienced', after viewing the Q+A session (post the NY screening), I was under the impression you were simply a bespoke enthusiast who had chosen to make this documentary based on his love / interest in the subject matter. Obviously I was wrong, and for that I apologize.

    My critique, nonetheless, stands. As I said, it was an enjoyable hour but one that left me largely unfulfilled. I'm evidently in the minority on SF as others have raved about your movie.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    So you've only seen the trailer, but still find it fit to criticize my review of the movie? In case you didn't realize, this is a forum which (as the term implies) encourages open discussion and expression.

    Oh, and next time, grow a pair and post in English rather than hoping to hide your insults in Italian.
     
  12. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

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    Enter Google Translate:

    Mr. Migliarotti is better that you do not read this thread. There will always be those who criticize just for the pleasure of the peg or pundit. But in the end, this did not make a movie because he knows nothing of either the film or tailoring Napolitana. Maybe he has some clothing, but probably only because the subject is aware of the law here. Vicarious experiences ... that's what you'll find here.
    She did the film instead of the result and many people enjoy. Critics can not suggest anything here. If anyone here wanted to discuss the details of the film, may contact you via private message. Otherwise, the advice to avoid the thread, which with the passing of time will be filled with posts full of nonsense and attempt to make them angry.
    Just a suggestion by one who loved the song in the trailer. I am still waiting for the arrival of DVD.
     
  13. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Well-Known Member

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    Such a passionate response based on the fact that he loved the song in the trailer?? I musy know, what is this enchanting melody? Is it as good as "Can't Fight The Moonlight" from the epic movie Coyote Ugly?

    FWIW, I liked O'Mast.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
  14. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    BTW have you seen Put This On's interview with Gianluca Migliarotti? He addresses some of your questions.

    http://putthison.com/post/7344403601/interview-with-gianluca-migliarotti-director-of
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    I don't think song is the right translation of "brano"...it's more like "bit" or "piece" I think...
     
  16. andreyb2

    andreyb2 Well-Known Member

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    Dear Mr Migliarotti,

    Regarding passion -- yes, it is good to have it. And yes, after listening Italian artisans for an hour, one can't stand this word anymore.

    You decided to give the tailors a full go -- almost all of your film consists of direct speech from them, with interviewer's voice not even present. Yes, this approach produces a truly "inside story". But, in my opinion, the story can benefit from more structure and involvement of the film's director -- here I agree with ET. You certainly able to do it -- as I said, the interludes (produced by you, not tailors) are superb.

    Thus, I believe that your love (and passion :)) for the subject matter and appreciation of artisans resulted in too little editing for their ramblings. Tailors' philosophy is just that -- tailors' philosophy... It is interesting -- but only to an extent.

    Said this, I enjoyed the film. I believe this is the best (the only?) documentary on Neapolitan tailoring in existence -- and you produced an excellent work.

    But as Neapolitan tailors say, there are no perfect suits... and there are no perfect documentaries. :)

    Andrey
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012
  17. point1

    point1 Member

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    I'm glad you didn't make it like the Savile Row documentary, which clearly lacks passion and in all honesty most of the tailors there seems not nearly as genuine as those pictured in O'mast. O'mast is a much better movie in all aspects.
     
  18. toscano_adottato

    toscano_adottato Well-Known Member

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    I think you misunderstood on several levels. My response to Mr Migliarotti has nothing to do with you and everything to do with a filmmaker interacting in a thread about his film on a message board. Perhaps I should have included a caveat that it had nothing to do with your post, it was just a general thought. I can see how coming so close to the exchange it would appear as though I was talking about you, so I apologize. It truly wasn't my intent. And the Italian part was because Mr Migliarotti is Italian and I speak it also. But, I'm not so presumptuous to think that other couldn't understand, or couldn't run it through Google translate. I wrote it in Italian because I like writing in Italian.

    As a long time denizen of the Internet, I've never seen one occasion in which an artist tries to defend his/her work on a message board thread end well. There are too many trolls and too many armchair experts and the stark nature of text doesn't lend itself to a reasoned discussion. That's all I was really trying to communicate and, again, I apologize for coming across as though I was referring specifically to you.
     
  19. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't jump to this conclusion. The long front dart has nothing to do with making the fronts longer. That is balance. It is just a style of cutting. For what it is worth, my tailor has he only uses a long front dart when clients have a really big belly. It helps to pull the quarters toward the thighs more rather than tenting out.
     
  20. kcc

    kcc Well-Known Member

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    While watching the film I noticed the ebb and flow of each scene, the expressions of the tailors, which were
    not contrived but natural as the Neapolitan garment. If the film was a structured production it would not have captured
    the genuine characteristics of the Neapolitan, both the tailor and his garment. Great film!
     

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