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Non-Rule "Rules"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 27, 2012.

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  1. Brendon

    Brendon Well-Known Member

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    If S/B I always wear suits with centre vent, double is for horses and besides a centre vent will always look slimmer from the front.
    I always wear a Windsor knot when the tie is silk. half windsor for knitted. Fore in hand is for schoolboys
    I always iron own my own shirts, I can't stand collars that curl at the tips and I never wear collar stays ( they don't work)
    Only Vicars and waiters wear black socks,
    I will never wear pointy shoes that protrude way beyond the toe and curl like Aladin's slippers
     
  2. msulinski

    msulinski Well-Known Member

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    What? A center vent derives from horseback riding.
     
  3. Calder

    Calder Well-Known Member

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    Double-Breasted Suit = Twin Vents
    Single Breasted Suit = No Vents

    Never wear tasselled loafers

    Never wear button down shirts (not that you can buy them here - seems to be a seriously American thing)

    Never wear contrast collar/cuff shirts
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    I don't wear a watch that often anyway, but I never wear one after six.
     
  5. Big T

    Big T Well-Known Member

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    I actually follow this "rule" as it was suggested by the owner of a small mens wear store where I've never been led astray. But the question remains, is a center vent used for sport coats and side vents for suits (I'm too lazy today to go into the closet to look and I'm also afraid of what I may find!!).
     
  6. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    So far as I know, the center vent originated on English riding coats. But a long time ago, the 30s at the latest, the English had stopped making them on lounge jackets, i.e., what we would call a suit or odd jacket. They would make them either non or side vented. Back then, non-vented was more popular than side, but over the years that changed, I'm not sure when the tipping point was, but when I first showed up on Savile Row in 1989, everything was side-vented.

    American jackets were virtually all center-vented until designer clothes started getting popular here in the '80s. Nowadays you can find any vent configuration in an American shop, though Brooks and its ilk still sell the center vent.

    I also believe that a traditional English hacking jacket with a high three-button, short lapel roll stance (meaning you're supposed to button all three buttons) will still take a center vent. It's been a while since I have seen one of these though and I have never owned one.

    I believe vox rides, maybe if he is lurking he can break his fast and clarify.
     
  7. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    I can say from personal experience I despise center vented coats for a number of reasons. No matter how nice the suit or coat I will not buy unless it is side vented.
     
  8. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    I prefer side vents, but being a good American, can appreciate the single vent in the Mad Men aesthetic. Who knew there were so many Commies around here?

    I have a proper English hacking jacket. It has a single vent. It also smells of hay.

    My non-rule rules:
    I wear navy socks with everything. I can't remember the last time I wore anything else, save for black tie and sports.

    Also, chelseas with everything, including black tie.

    The same mid-brown belt with everything.

    Knit ties with everything.

    No shirt collars other than buttondowns or moderate spreads. Also, I can't remember the last time I wore French cuffs.

    I value variety much less than I did in the past.
     
  9. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    But Doc, you seem to dress in a more rustic fashion so many of your rules are apropos (not sure about navy socks with everything, tho).
     
  10. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    That's true. I want my suits to look the business but everything else to be casualwear.
     
  11. LeviMay

    LeviMay Well-Known Member

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    I generally will wear only white shirts in the evening, although I'm trying to break the habit, and enjoy some pattern at night. I know that's a "Real Rule", but up in rural Canada, if you're wearing something other than a TapOut shirt, you're over-dressed anyhow.

    Only double cuffs with DB suits, although, again, I'm trying to wean myself off of this one.

    After getting called on not having any BD shirts in the Pattern mixing thread, I've ordered a couple, and I'll try them out, but, up until now, have never owned one.

    Also, I agree with a tie being required with a suit, but (semi-) optional with an odd jacket.
     
  12. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    Pants: flat or single forward pleat. Off-seam pockets. If there are belt loops then a center back loop is a must and five total loops.

    Shirts: No collar stays. Ideally shirts have no slot for them either, so the collar can be flipped when it gets threadbare on top. Box pleat for BD collar, side pleats for spread. All shirts w/ barrel cuffs, single button and no gauntlet button. French cuff for tux only.

    Shoes: no cap-toed bluchers. (OK on boots though.) No tassels of any kind.

    Belts: 1 1/8" except 1" for plaque buckled belts. Anything 1 1/4 wide or larger is for jeans only. Never anything over or 1 1/2. Very plain buckles, no metal keepers.

    I think I'm pretty open when it comes to ties and jackets, but I do have preferences.


    I wonder if this depends on one's hair/skin color. I wear black shoes w/ khakis and think it looks good in part bec. of my black hair and olive complexion.

    How about air force blue?

    Interesting.


    Sometimes? Did you just say "sometimes"?
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2012
  13. Big Bird

    Big Bird Well-Known Member

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    Navy socks with everything.
    Never wear BDs with suits.
    Never wear shirts with breast pockets with suits.
    And I would never wear a tie with a BD.
    I try to not complicate things; two solids and one pattern.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012
  14. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    ^Good call on the BDs with suits. As much as I like BDs, wearing them with suits is a Tradly step too far for me.
     
  15. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    I like BDs with tradly or casual suits, flannels and linens and such. I can't remember the last time I did it with worsted.
     
  16. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    Im trying to stick to only two patterns lately, though I have been giving thought that texture is actually a pattern.

    Example :
    [​IMG]


    Here, I wore only two patterns, the shirt and square, however I think the knit texture of the tie acted as a pattern and I felt a bit too busy with it.
     
    2 people like this.
  17. johanm

    johanm Well-Known Member

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    gonna sound like a contrarian here but...

    - only french cuff with dress shirts; I spec the cuffs to be slim with the hole closer to the edge, so they're not conspicuous / clunky
    - no BD collar on dress shirts; only soft semi spread
    - only black oxfords with suits
    - no shoulder padding in jackets
    - no striped ties
    - no pocket squares
     
  18. hendrix

    hendrix Well-Known Member

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    only black or midnight blue shoes at night.

    If i'm wearing a tie at night it is navy.

    no belt ever. No loafers ever.

    Oh, and the only shoes that ever get a spit shine are black. Brown spit polished shoes look weird to me, especially if they have some antiquing.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2012
  19. hendrix

    hendrix Well-Known Member

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    Tan linen jacket, white or light blue shirt, navy linen pants?
     
  20. Gruto

    Gruto Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Navy trousers and white jacket. I like.
     

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