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Non-Rule "Rules"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 27, 2012.

  1. emc894

    emc894 Well-Known Member

    Nov 17, 2009
    New Amsterdam
    I pay attention to seasonal stuff like lighter/brighter colors (including browns in shoes) during summer months. Day and Night dressing. White shirt and black shoes and more shiny/ elegant fabrics. at night (dark tie obviously if im wearing one). I would never wear tan shoes with business clothes.

    Basically being consistent with the spirit of the rules and dressing to the occasion. I try to not wear anything I know will turn heads or that I know people will receive comments during the day, including aggressive fits and pointy shoes. Sometimes I will wear a cashmere coat or silk scarf or swiss sportswatch or something at night that invites attention or touching, and I am cognizant of that.
  2. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Well-Known Member

    Jun 12, 2010
    Keyboard War Room

    I fly frequently with watch, tie bar, cuff links (and dog tags!) and never have to take them off at the metal detector.
  3. BaldwinP

    BaldwinP Well-Known Member

    Feb 18, 2013
    It depends on the court and the airport I find.

    I recall one court I used to appear in frequently where the metal detector was so slack I once inadvertently entered with a keyring in my pocket that had a miniature swiss army knife attached, and certainly never had to take off my belt or anything of that nature. These days the courts and airports I go through always seem to at least require me to take off my belt, and so I don't take the risk of having to fiddle around further. I even make sure not to have metal collar stays in on those days. Personal idiosyncracy, I guess. I seem to have a face that gets me pulled aside for extra checks at the airports anyway, whether I'm returning from holiday in a sweater and jeans and 5 days' growth or I'm on business carefully groomed in a handmade Italian suit, so I have a bit of an aversion to setting off the metal detectors and drawing even more attention.
  4. Bounder

    Bounder Well-Known Member

    Mar 14, 2009

    I'm not sure whether I should be flattered or offended.

    Well done!
  5. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

    May 10, 2005
    Menlo Park, CA
    Rules Taht I Live BY

    1. Inverness Capes may not be worn until after Grouse Season.

    2. Breeks with Veldtschoen and Gaiters are correct, Wellingtons are

    3. Tartans may only be worn after six PM
  6. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

    Jan 9, 2010

    If I'm wearing a sweater, then
    1) I'm not at work, and do not need to constantly check the time
    2) I have my iPhone, which shows the time

    Oh, and also I don't like to wear dress shirts (or any collared shirt) under sweaters either.
  7. YRR92

    YRR92 Well-Known Member

    Nov 13, 2012
    Fair enough. I feel weirdly naked without a shirt collar or a watch. Sweaters without shirt -- can't do shetland like that, and I'd worry about killing cashmere or merino by doing that. Not that I need to worry about cashmere sweaters in this lifetime, of course.
  8. Oli2012

    Oli2012 Well-Known Member

    Aug 22, 2012
    Sydney, Australia
    I won't wear the following until I'm over 30:
    - A pocket square
    - Chalk stripes/pin stripes
    - French cuffs

    I work in a legal office.
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013
  9. Makoto Chan

    Makoto Chan Well-Known Member

    Oct 10, 2010
  10. tennesseean_87

    tennesseean_87 Active Member

    Aug 20, 2010
    I'm thinking of changing a few of these(*), but here's how I automatically dress:

    1. Odd jackets with chinos, cords, etc=OCBD every time*
    2. Blazer with nicer wool trousers=No collar buttons
    3. Only white squares for church, especially when preaching and/or leading worship (I go CDBish but without the same level of formality)
    4. Fall-winter, wear as many layers as weather permits
    5. Dress as casually as possible in jacket and tie for class (graduate level)
    a. but don't wear boat shoes with a tie.
    6. Summer-spring, wear socks as little as possible
    a. but only with loafers, boat shoes
    b. lace-ups always get socks
  11. UTfootball747

    UTfootball747 Well-Known Member

    Jul 10, 2013
    Austin, TX
    This is more of a rule for casual wear, but I think the pant leg rolling thing that's everywhere (in ads more so than actually on people) looks goofy and I refuse to participate.
  12. SirJamesWinston

    SirJamesWinston Well-Known Member

    Mar 27, 2013
    2. That is interesting. OCBD (or BD) looks great with cords and khakis, but I have noticed they seem off with my nicer HY mid grey flannels
    3. This is a good rule. One I may institute myself. Or only a silk square (i.e. not my white linen) if I am wearing a very basic or plain tie. Don't want to appear to be too much of a dandy in this role and even the basic white linen causes brows to raise. If the shirt, tie, suit, socks, and shoes are sober, some pop with the ps would look nice.
    5a/6a. No boat=no boat shoes, though they are comfortable. Either bluchers, loafers, or white sneakers.
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2014
  13. SirJamesWinston

    SirJamesWinston Well-Known Member

    Mar 27, 2013
    Here goes:
    1. Undershirts and underpants should be 100% cotton (and should never be seen).
    2. OTC socks trump ankle socks as they stay up and provide slight compression throughout the day for runner's calves.
    3. No cheap leather. Don't waste that animal's skin.
    4. Horse butt leather is the ideal for leather items, as at least in theory the horses died of natural causes, but will remain the ideal until the budget allows.
    5. No boat=no boat shoes.
    6. No no-show socks. Either wear socks, or don't wear socks. Going for the sock-less look while wearing socks is sigh inducing.
    7. Grenadines are for suits.
    8. Rubber bottomed leather shoes should only be worn as bad weather beaters.
    9. Ties should be correspond to your body type. For me it is 3.25" and below as my height is 6"2, and my weight is 164 lbs and dropping (ideally to 155 lbs).
    10. No belt loops on suit trousers if your weight is stable.
    11. Narrow point collars do not look good on anyone. I've read the argument that a heavier rounded face person should wear this type, but it only seems to accentuate their chin(s). It also looks cleaner to have the points tucked away and not stranded on the shirt.
    12. More than one ring looks comical on a man.
    13. Bracelets look comical on a man. I've seen appealing outfits in this forum marred by sigh inducing accessories.
    14. Jeans should only be worn casually with a t-shirt and sneakers, or in their proper role as manual labor pants with boots and a long-sleeve work shirt. Dark jeans can look good with tweed or a flannel shirt, but I will abstain. Jackets express authority. Jeans express manual labor. Why mix the two?
    15. No regimental/striped ties with suits. Maybe someday I will get over my distaste for looking like a politician.
    16. The only silk ties that should be worn with odd jackets are regimental/striped ties, knits, or silk/linen and silk/cotton blends.
    17. No BD and tie with suits. Would consider BD sans tie with a suit, but would still probably avoid.
    18. Short pants are for children and the female sex. Shorts are to be worn at the beach, or when exercising, and the shorter the better. My running shorts for training (not racing) have a two inch inseam.
    19. If you have any connection to a particular clan in Scotland or Ireland, no other obvious tartan clan pattern should be worn. As a descendant of the MacDougall clan, I have only one option and it looks like this:

      If you have no such connections, then you are free. And yes, the whole tartan clan thing is quite silly, and dubious historically before the 19th century, but if you are going to represent, show some loyalty.
    20. Wear more causal shirts with odd jackets. Save the sober semi-spreads for the suit(s).
    21. Four-in-hand.
    22. No pocket square with corduroy trousers. It looks off. Not sure about moleskins yet, as I won't get a pair till next fall.
    23. Avoid wearing nicer dress shirts without a jacket. Rule voided above a certain temperature (my boiling point TBD).
    24. Reserve wedding ties for weddings and your funeral tie for funerals or equally sober events (i.e. Good Friday service). Eventually I will add a baptism tie (KW shepherds check navy for example), and a communion tie (KW shepherd's check red for example) to this reserved list.
    25. Be charitable. Remember from whence you came, and that where you are now, is likely someone else's came from.
    1 person likes this.
  14. azwildcat

    azwildcat Active Member

    Feb 5, 2014
    This may be the best message board post I've ever read. Cheers and thanks. Can I get a summary like this on parenting? Biz? Marriage?

    The one thing I do wish I'd personally thought about a bit more in following this and related Mafoofan advice is varying contrast based on complexion as discussed by Flusser. More specifically, I wish I'd gone with lighter blue shirts, so as to have more contrast in fits. And maybe a bit heavier on the white in the blue/white shirt ratio... since I can squeeze in a few more in the rotation based on work setting. But that's just an excuse to order more a bit sooner.
  15. Allen Smithee

    Allen Smithee Active Member

    May 9, 2014
    When one sock in a pair has the imprint, usually the brand name, on it, that sock goes on the left foot.
  16. herringbonePete

    herringbonePete Well-Known Member

    Dec 6, 2011
    At the risk of being absolutely contrarian with most of the board:

    1) Never OCBD - it may be OK in the States.
    2) I always wear jeans with tweed and odd jackets - or moleskin and much less likely, cord.
    If I was to wear wool or flannel they would need to be plain front and be quite snug.
    To me, loosely fitted formal trousers spoil the lines of the sports jacket and frankly do look dressed up in these days we live in.
    I've always thought that jeans act as a sort of corset and flatter the male physique
    with the jacket flattering the shoulders and chest - in fact jeans and sports jacket can be a killer combo.

    3) Always spread collars, even cutaways, never regular or points. Spread collars give more space for the neck to move in all scenarios. Under a crewneck the collar sits perfectly and frames the neck. Any other collar squashes.
    4) Always french cuffs. Why? Mine fold up perfectly with the cuff as a guide, to the elbow and take any shirt I buy from business to pub in 30 seconds, or starts up folded. I never wear shirts down to the wrist unless I have a jacket on. Why bother with barrel cuffs? With knots, you can still wear under a jumper - they don't really show.
    5) Always crewneck jumpers, never V neck - and collars inside jumper always.
    Last edited: May 15, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  17. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Apr 20, 2002
    In Hiding

    This is not the threard where you get browbeat for personal preferences. That's the rest of the board. This is the thread where you let your freak flag fly.
    4 people like this.
  18. johanm

    johanm Well-Known Member

    Aug 29, 2010

    I concur with each one of your points. SF pariahs unite!
    1 person likes this.
  19. size 38R

    size 38R Well-Known Member

    Aug 17, 2012
    I'm down.

    Denims and S/c's all day erryday. [​IMG]
  20. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

    Jan 9, 2010

    Holy shit!

    Collars w/o collar stays turn into pringles, what do you do!?

    P.S. Leave button-down out of this.

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