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new member- couple of questions- italian shoes, interno 8 and jeans

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by masterpp, May 24, 2006.

  1. masterpp

    masterpp Well-Known Member

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    hey guys, new to site and with a few questions.

    1. what makes of shoes can you recommend. i usually go for the dolce gabbana smart shoe look (even during the day) but i want to invest in some nice italian shoes. i have quite small feet so i need the pointy shoes (hency why i usually wear Dolce). i was thinking of investing in either Santoni's or Berluti's. which of these brands is better for a young guy, and of the berluti's which are there pointiest fit (is it the piercings)- im only 19 so i like pointy shoes

    2. what do people think of interno 8 shirts. im really thinking of getting one with the super high collar to wear in the summer. id only get it in white, as i think that the unusual details are enough, and one doesnt need to go over board with wacky colours or silver buttons or anything.

    3. can someone recommend a good brand of jeans. i usually wear apc new standards, as they are narrow on the leg but comfy and loose ish on thigh and around the waist. however im looking for some other brands. what do for instance the dior homme jeans fit like.
    im about 5.10 and 140 pounds, so im skinny but i hate the lanky nerd look.

    any advice appreciated.

    cheers
     
  2. kronik

    kronik Well-Known Member

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    1. Refer to the comprehensive list of RTW shoes - http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/f...ad.php?t=49981.

    2. Not familiar with the brand.

    3. Look around in the Streetwear and Denim forum. It's dedicated to jeans - you will find a lot of information there without even asking for advice.

    Welcome to the board.
     
  3. Nick M

    Nick M Well-Known Member

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    2. what do people think of interno 8 shirts. im really thinking of getting one with the super high collar to wear in the summer. id only get it in white, as i think that the unusual details are enough, and one doesnt need to go over board with wacky colours or silver buttons or anything.
    I don't own any, but I think the look is great. Yes, they are quite a trendy item, but they're also pretty cool-looking in their own right, and in white it'd be mostly pretty timeless. Even if not, you'll probably wear the shirt out before the trend subsides.

    Are you from the UK? What's an Interno 8 shirt cost these days?
     
  4. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    Interno 8 shirts are nice looking and if you like the high collars and get basic colors, I wouldn't worry about them going out of style.

    I would worry about the shoes, though. If you like the really pointy shoes (witches shoes as some call them here), I would shy away from spending Berluti/Santoni FAM money on that style of shoe as you do not know how you'll feel about it when you get older. Unless you are flush with cash and $1,000 means nothing to you. Dolce and Gucci make those really pointy shoes and they can be had on ebay for relatively low amounts so I would stick in that realm.

    If by pointy, though, you mean the more conservative elongated toe that is very popular here (C&J Weymouth, RLPL Mackay, EG 888 last, the conservative Berluti's and Santoni's), then I would whole heartedly agree with getting high quality in that regard as these are timeless shoes and the price is well worth it.
     
  5. whoopee

    whoopee Well-Known Member

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    1. See Vass U Last.

    2. The high collar is not objectionable if you have a long neck and it sounds like you do. Some of the other Interno 8 gimmicks are not as appreciated.

    3. I second the streetwear and denim rec. Do you want jeans that fit similarly to your New Standards?
     
  6. masterpp

    masterpp Well-Known Member

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    yeah i live in london so the shirts are about 150 ish up to 300 depending on how fancy you want them.

    the naffer, colourful ones often also go on sale/

    interno shirts are associated with naff playboys, but i think in classic white it could be classic and kooky for summer.



    I don't own any, but I think the look is great. Yes, they are quite a trendy item, but they're also pretty cool-looking in their own right, and in white it'd be mostly pretty timeless. Even if not, you'll probably wear the shirt out before the trend subsides.

    Are you from the UK? What's an Interno 8 shirt cost these days?
     
  7. masterpp

    masterpp Well-Known Member

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    by the way with regards to pointy, i like a rounded point. i think people take the points too far. i think YSL have got it just about right. im quite a traditional dresser, but i like my clothes to have an edge. i just think berluti are such beautiful shoes though.

    perhaps im more interested in them as an object rather than as something to wear
     
  8. Beckwith

    Beckwith Well-Known Member

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    I own a few interno8's that I picked up a few years ago. I really like the shirts, their thick MOP buttons and high double button collars. The collars have remained stiff after many launderings and the shirts seem to hold up rather well. Unfortunately the dry cleaners killed my buttons, so I need to find some replacements. I purchased mine on sale, not sure if they still hold the sale, but they were pretty darn cheap.
     
  9. Nick M

    Nick M Well-Known Member

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    interno shirts are associated with naff playboys,
    I think of that show, Footballers' Wives - rubbish TV, great clothes.
     
  10. masterpp

    masterpp Well-Known Member

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    sorry to go back to the shoe question, for a young guy who is conservative but edgy, do you think berluti would be too conservative, round toed for me. i must confess to enjoying a good sharp ROUNDED or chiseled point on a shoe. for instance i find churches, and even john lobb too rounded-i like the style, but not the shape

    should i be looking more at santoni. i enjoy dolce shoes but i think its a shame to stick to one brand- i also just think berluti;s are so beautiful
     
  11. acidboy

    acidboy Well-Known Member

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    berluti and conservative are rarely used in the same sentence. [​IMG] really, its all up to you. don't be so constrained with brand choices. if it fits you and you like it, just buy it. the guides here point out the brands that make good quality stuff, let that be your guide. don't sweat it if the brand is not to your liking.
     
  12. masterpp

    masterpp Well-Known Member

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    berluti and conservative are rarely used in the same sentence. [​IMG]

    really, its all up to you. don't be so constrained with brand choices. if it fits you and you like it, just buy it. the guides here point out the brands that make good quality stuff, let that be your guide. don't sweat it if the brand is not to your liking.


    absolutely- i dont want to be constrained. because my feet aren't particularly big, i usually go for a pointy dolce as it gives my foot a nicer shape.

    but i want to start getting into proper shoes, berluti, santoni ect
     
  13. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Well-Known Member

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    Berluti piercing sounds about right for you.
     
  14. kronik

    kronik Well-Known Member

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    Definitely wouldn't call Berluti conservative..

    You could try Lattanzi. [​IMG]
     
  15. acidboy

    acidboy Well-Known Member

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    i am a fan of santonis. their chisel cuts do make your feet look longer. also, try crockett & jones. the models in the 337 last, as also mentioned by the seniors in this thread, are quite good and conservative. i have always found the shoe guide in this forum very very informative and honest.
     
  16. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Well-Known Member

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    dolce gabbana shoes i dont think are made on any kind of engineered last, i think they just slapped up that pointy toe to cater to the younger buyers. they dont make you look sharp, imo, just silly looking, hugo boss and some prada has this toe as well.
    santoni is a very elegant but edgier toe box and last compared to the C&J or EG elongated lasts. many people do not like the santoni look. i like it, i own two santoni classic US models and they are classic italian toebox styling but still very elegant.
    i know you are a younger person who wants to dress young and edgy but that will quickly fleet. especially when you are planning to drop several hundred dollars in footwear, no matter how well off you are, it just is not a wise investment to buy footwear fabricated for a fleeting fad, most of the time they arent even comfortable, and your face and posture will show it, and your friends will ask what if you are ok. try dressing edgy but in a more grown up way with C&J or Allen Edmonds (more so in how the rest of your attire looks that will create the edgy look. I dont shoes will make that much of a difference, just make sure they are a quality make, feel comfortable, and not pointy like DG or else you will look edgy but in a silly way.
     
  17. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Well-Known Member

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    oh yes, another thing, ive seen good shoes in sizes 6, 7, 8, etc. smaller sizes in CJ , AE, EG and the like and they all look very elegant and when tried on the elegance is equal to say a larger footed person who has them on.
    pointy toe shoes will not cancel out the small footed look but just enhance an awkward look.

    berluti is very elegant as well, they are known for some coloring and styling motifs that are very out there, like the frankenstein shoes, and the shoes that come with a third right foot. however, if you are willing to fork over about a grand for berluti, you will quickly become one of the premier forumites around here.
     
  18. tiger02

    tiger02 Well-Known Member

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    i know you are a younger person who wants to dress young and edgy but that will quickly fleet...try dressing edgy but in a more grown up way...
    Totally disagree, and the advice to wear AE and C&J instead of D&G is misguided. Save 'em for when you have to wear 'em to work. Masterpp, check out the reviews below.

    A. Testoni -- Three different levels of quality. Regular-line shoes (now called Studium, I believe) are okay, if a little bit fashion-forward. The Black Label shoes are better. They're all Bologna-constructed, and every so often I see a model that I actually could wear. Most of them are a bit too fashion-forward for my tastes, and the prices (over $700 per pair) are high. The third line is called Amedeo Testoni and consists of Goodyear-welted and Norwegian constructed shoes. These are excellently-made but mostly unattractive to my eyes. They're also extremely expensive for what you're getting.

    Bruno Magli -- Magli has a number of different lines. The only line worth talking about is the Platinum line. They appear to be well made (I think that they're Blake-constructed), but the designs are a bit over-the-top for me. They're also very expensive for the quality. I don't believe that Magli actually owns any production facilities but rather contracts all production out to third parties.

    Silvano Lattanzi -- Handmade shoes of impeccable quality. Lattanzi was originally brought to the United States by Louis Boston and is a pioneer here of handmade shoes and very high prices. He's best known for gunboat-sized Norwegian- or Bentivegna-constructed shoes with flashy antiquing, but he can do more subdued styles as well.

    Kiton -- Kiton's shoes have a eye-popping antiquing similar to what one sees on Lattanzi shoes, but the last shapes tend to be sleeker and the designs, while unusual, are generally more conservative.

    Sutor Mantellassi -- I will admit that I have a soft spot in my heart for Sutor Mantellassi shoes. I love the way that they do Norwegian construction (with a single row of stitching rather than the flashier two braided rows favored by other makers) and their innovative use of skin stitching. Like most Italian producers, Mantellassi has more than one line: a Blake-constructed line of good but not outstanding quality and a Norwegian or Goodyear-constructed line that is of excellent quality.

    Gravati -- One of my favorite Italian manufacturers, not because there aren't better producers out there (there are) but because Gravati makes an excellent shoe for a reasonable price and because they are almost infinitely flexible in what they can and will produce. Over the years, I have placed many, many special orders for Gravati shoes, and they are always right and of remarkably consistent quality. Their shoes are mostly Blake- and Blake/Rapid-constructed, but they will make Goodyear-welted shoes on request.

    Borgioli -- Borgioli is a major producer of private-label shoes, some of which are made to execrable standards of quality and which Borgioli would never want to claim. Hey, they need to survive. The shoes produced under their own label are very good. Most are Blake-constructed. A few are Norwegian-constructed, and they are excellent.

    Romano Martegani -- Martegani operates a very good Blake and Blake/Rapid factory, and they are endlessly flexible. Gravati will almost never say no to a customer's cockamamie ideas for a shoe, but they will say no sometimes. Martegani won't. These are good, not excellent, shoes offered for a reasonable price. User Ron Rider, formerly the shoe manager at Franco's in Richmond, is now the US distributer for Martegani.

    Salvatore Ferragamo -- Like Bruno Magli, Ferragamo doesn't own any of their own production facilities. Also like Bruno Magli, they market shoes of widely varying qualities. The Studio line shoes are cemented and not worth the money they cost. The Lavarazione Originale line shoes are generally Blake-constructed and are often attractive and well-made, if overpriced. The Tramezza line shoes are Goodyear-welted and are very good. Ferragamo has a joint venture with Zegna called Zefer, and Zefer produces all of the Zegna-labelled shoes. I believe, although I am not certain, that Zegna owns the production facilities for these shoes, some of which are very good.

    StefanoBi -- I don't know a whole lot about StefanoBi shoes, but I believe that this was Stefano Branchini's original company and that he sold it to LVMH in the 1990s. The StefanoBi factory apparently produces shoes for all of the LVMH companies, including Berluti. The only pair of StefanoBi shoes that I ever saw (square-toe tan wingtip balmorals) were attractive in a flashy, Italian sort of way.

    Stefano Branchini -- If I recall correctly, I believe that Sr. Branchini started this company after he sold StefanoBi to LVMH. I have never seen any of these shoes in the flesh, and I really can't comment on the quality of construction. What I can say is that these shoes, to me, represent everything that is wrong with Italian shoemaking today. They're ugly and over-the-top. It's like Sr. Branchini took all that is excessive about Lattanzi shoes and used it as a toned-down model for what he wanted to do.

    Artioli -- I believe, although I am not sure, that Artioni shoes are mostly Bologna-constructed. They look to be well-made and are undoubtedly very flexible. I have two primary complaints with Artioli shoes. First is the leather that they tend to use: it's that glove-leather-looking stuff that Italian shoes were known for in the 1980s. Sure, it's soft, but it doesn't wear very well. Secondly, they have succumbed to the witch's shoes trend: their shoes nowadays tend to have elongated, needle-nose snouts that I think are extremely ugly.

    Santoni -- Santoni produces many, many different lines of shoes. The Nuvola shoes have natural rubber soles and are decently-constructed and comfortable Blake shoes. The Classic line consists of some Bologna, some Blake, and some Goodyear shoes. The new Bologna models, in particular, are made on a very attractive round-toe last and are extremely flexible. The Fatte a Mano line consists of some Blake and some Goodyear, Norwegian, or Bentivegna shoes. Many of the Fatte a Mano models are, well, ugly, with overly-elongated, pointy, witch's-shoes-looking snouts; but when they're right, they're very, very right. Regardless, while you can complain about the looks of the non-Blake Fatte a Manos, you can't complain about the construction. It's excellent.

    Moreschi -- Moreschi is yet another good maker of mid-range Blake-constructed shoes. Much of what they sell is, ah, exuberant. Combinations of blue peccary with blue ostrich leg are to be found. You don't have to buy those. The normal shoes are well-made and reasonably priced. Probably a small step below Gravati in quality of construction, and much below Gravati in flexibility of offerings and receptivity to special orders.

    Fratelli Peluso -- I have seen a number of different types of Peluso shoes. The first is a line of Goodyear-welted shoes that look to be well-constructed and fairly-priced. From the website, it appears that these shoes have a gemmed linen feather and are machine-welted just as most English welted shoes. Given the price (under $500 per pair), this is to be expected. Peluso also makes a line of Blake-constructed shoes and yet another line of Blake-constructed shoes sold under the "Peluso for To Boot Adam Derrick" label. Both appear to be relatively well-constructed shoes offered for reasonable prices.

    Barrett -- I have never seen a Barrett shoe in person, but their website certainly shows a number of beautiful models. Although the website doesn't specify the construction methods used, it's likely that most of them are Blake or Blake/Rapid constructed, with a few Norwegian models.

    Bontoni -- This company has made a recent splash on the US market, getting themselves carried by Louis Boston and Stanley Korshak. The shoes are very much of a piece with a lot of high-end Italian shoes nowadays: a bit clunky, with eye-popping antiquing. If you like that sort of thing, these shoes appear to be well-made versions of the aesthetic. The problem is that they're grossly overpriced. They're Blake/Rapid-constructed, and the channel for the Rapid sole stitching isn't closed. Frankly, the quality of construction is inferior to Gravati or Martegani, in my opinion; and yet the retail price for the calfskin models is nearly $1000 per pair.

    Bonora -- Florentine bespoke maker that has branched into RTW. I don't know if these are factory-made shoes of if they are made in Bonora's workshop. Given the prices, I suspect that the former is more likely than the latter. The shoes themselves appear to be mostly Goodyear-welted and staid in their styling.

    De Tommaso -- A specialist in handmade Goodyear, Norwegian, and Treccia shoes.

    Zegna -- A few years ago, Zegna began a joint venture with Ferragamo called Zefer (oh, the originality!) to produce Zegna-labeled shoes. I suspect, although I do not know for sure, that Zegna actually owns the production facilities for these shoes. In any event, they run the gamut from the very ordinary to the very nice. Most of the lower-priced versions are either cemented or Blake-constructed. The top-of-the-line shoes, however, are Goodyear-welted and very attractive. As with a lot of Zegna's products, they are probably overpriced for what they are, but what they are appears to be excellent quality shoes.
     
  19. masterpp

    masterpp Well-Known Member

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    very helpful thanks guys
     

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