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New Bespoke Coat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by itsstillmatt, Oct 5, 2006.

  1. Jovan

    Jovan Well-Known Member

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    Indeed. This is why I tend to be a fan of Thomas Mahon's tailoring.
     
  2. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Well-Known Member

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    I believe the shirt is bespoke Anna Matuozzo.
     
  3. pkincy

    pkincy Well-Known Member

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    Fabulous jacket. Are the guesses as to the tailor accurate?

    Perry
     
  4. Sator

    Sator Well-Known Member

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    Nice work there. The waist suppression is just a bit more than I would get however.


    I love the waist suppression. You guys aren't getting jealous because the guy has a good figure that he can show off, are you [​IMG]
     
  5. kolecho

    kolecho Well-Known Member

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    I find too much waist suppression to be feminine.
     
  6. Dragon

    Dragon Well-Known Member

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    Nice jacket, and thank you for taking the time to share the pictures.

    The main problem is see with the waist suppression is that it is not a good balance with his total silouette. When you look at the complete outfit from top to bottom, the main thing that grabs your attention is the waist, then the hips.

    It`s just personal taste and opinion, but I think the waist suppression in this case draws too much attention to the middle to lower area of the jacket.
     
  7. Jovan

    Jovan Well-Known Member

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    That's pretty much my opinion too. Not even '60s suits nip the waist that much. There definitely is a point where you're directing attention to what you really shouldn't on a male. Simply put, yes -- it gets feminine. Women are much better equipped to wear tight waisted jackets, because their bodies already have that natural curve to them and thus it doesn't look very out of place. I could just be pulling this all out of my arse though.
     
  8. LabelKing

    LabelKing Well-Known Member

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    It seems it is going for an unstructured Anglo cut.

    However, the British, of course, have the pagoda/roped shoulders to slightly counter the waist.

    The photograph appears to be a Misrach.
     
  9. Jovan

    Jovan Well-Known Member

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    Well the other thing is that the jacket appears slightly stiff and militaristic due to the waist. I suppose if you like that aesthetic, it's fine, but generally it gives the connotations of uptight and fussy from my POV. Contrary to what was said on the front page, I'm not sure it's such a good thing if it looks very structured when it's not. But that's just me.
     
  10. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Well-Known Member

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    ???
     
  11. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    great looking suit shame you could not give us a side and rear view
     
  12. Jovan

    Jovan Well-Known Member

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    ???
    Simply put, less firm looking coats look more relaxed, and thus better to me.
     
  13. LARon

    LARon Well-Known Member

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    While I understand the view that a certain amount of waist suppression can tip over into either a slightly more feminine look, or a more fussy militaristic look (and isn't that an odd dichotomy-- the same look can be at once feminine and ubber macho), I think its an exceptional piece and wouldn't change a thing. In fact, I want it. Which way to the nearest Rubinacci workshop?
     
  14. horton

    horton Well-Known Member

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    Looks great. The sleeves seem absolutely perfectly tapered.
     
  15. Britalian

    Britalian Well-Known Member

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    Quite gorgeous. Perfect. I'm also wondering what the lining is like.
     
  16. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Well-Known Member

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    This coat looks fantastic, although I would have expected something more flamboyant than tulip table and bertoia chairs from you. [​IMG]

    !luc
     
  17. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely stunning, waist supression and all.
     
  18. texas_jack

    texas_jack Well-Known Member

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    I vote for the side and back view as well.

    Nice jacket.
     
  19. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Well-Known Member

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  20. Sator

    Sator Well-Known Member

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    Not even '60s suits nip the waist that much. There definitely is a point where you're directing attention to what you really shouldn't on a male. Simply put, yes -- it gets feminine.
    Sir, I must beg to politely disagree. The '60 were characterised by an exquisite degree of waist suppression on men's coats. You can clearly this see on this coat from '66: [​IMG] 1866 that is [​IMG] It looks perfectly masculine, elegant and elongating. Above all it flatters those of us who are a bit trimmer, when it helps to bring out a bit of shape. This tendency to cut to bring out the natural elegance of the human form was something you could still see at the turn of the century. This one comes from 1901: [​IMG] Perfectly masculine. Perfectly elegant. It's a shame they started introducing these atrocious modern floppy coats a la Scholte and Armani [​IMG] .
     

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