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Need advise: Tom Ford suit ruined, sleeves to be changed.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Quarks, Jan 28, 2012.

  1. Quarks

    Quarks Well-Known Member

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    Melbourne, Australia
    I have a major issue at present which need expert advise (jefferyd et al). Given the seriousness of the matter (having invested substantial amt of money), I am seeking reassurance, perhaps intervention if warranted on my current issue. It is concerning the shoulder rope....

    I recently bought a Tom Ford suit in London with the sleeves unfinished. Due to my brief stay in London, I was unable to get the sleeves buttonholes done there. So I brought back to my Australia to have them finished. I brought it to a well-known departmental store (sorry I will not disclose who they are) who knew top-end tailors to finished the buttons as close to Tom Ford as humanly possible. Turned out to be a major disaster. The sleeves buttonholes were ruined. When I first saw it, I knew this suit has gone to shit. I could not bring myself to accept such shoddy workmanship, let alone wearing it ever again. The buttonholes weren't keyholes, there was fraying everywhere, each buttonhole was either too short or too long compared to the standard ones, the alignment was out of whack, they were asymmetrically arranged between the two sleeves. It was simply a nightmare for me. It had to re-corrected by another tailor but still out of whack.
    (Sorry no pics - I do not need pics to remind me how badly it was done.)

    To cut the story short, the damage was so bad that the sleeves had to be ordered from Tom Ford (with finished buttonholes) directly to replace the current one.
    My question is:-
    - Can the robe of the shoulder be affected if the sleeves of the suit are to be changed?
    - What precautions should be undertaken not to affect the robe of the shoulders when changing sleeves?


    I will be meeting up with the tailor when my sleeves comes in. I will, by no means, be advising him what to do, but I like to know the likelihood of ruining the roped shoulders, and what my chances of getting back my suit as close to original as possible. I will be reassured by them it will be perfect. Well, I have been reassured by them before so no reassurance from them can ever be enough at this stage.

    I am extremely paranoid about effin' up the robe of the shoulders as it is perfect as it is, as of now.
    I would hate it to know that this suit has become an absolutely a eye-sore in my wardrobe.

    Please advise. Cheers.
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Pawz

    Pawz Well-Known Member

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    *taps your shoulder*
    ...please delete my post (sorry)...
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2012
  3. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Well-Known Member

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    Interesting story. Technically it is possible...but

    The degree to which the outcome will match the original depends on (1) the skill of the tailor, (2) the tailor's level of understanding of how the shoulders were done, and (3) the amount of work and time the tailor is willing to put into the replacements.

    No one on the Internet can address these points for you, I am sad to say.
     
  4. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    That really sucks man, I am sorry to hear it. Hope it works out. Also, ^ What he said.
     
  5. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Well-Known Member

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    I hope the store paid for your new sleeves - did they? I also echo other sentiment about expressing my condolences of suits.
     
  6. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Well-Known Member

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    Let me be the realist and tell it like it is (or going to be).....

    The same tailor that can't even cut sleeve buttonhole without FUBARing them is NOT going to be able to achieve the factory TOM FORD roped shoulder.
     
  7. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    Did they acknowledge that the workmanship was bad? Can you demand that they reimburse you for the suit they ruined?
     
  8. hymo

    hymo Well-Known Member

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    Why do you use the word "tailor"?

    A tailor is someone who can make garments from a bolt of cloth, from scratch, to a very satisfactory standard (if not up to bespoke levels).

    Someone who shortens jeans for a living is an alterationist.

    An alterationist would have precisely 0.0% chance of fitting in coat sleeves. You need to do this several times a week to be in practice, it is one of the most complicated things in coatmaking.

    I would say just forget about this dud of an alterationist and arrange to have your jacket sent back to its maker in Italy for setting in sleeves. Alternatively, try to find a real coatmaker in your city, someone who makes coats for a living.
     
  9. Holdfast

    Holdfast Well-Known Member

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    I must admit that this is my gut instinct, but I wish the OP well and hope I am wrong and they simply had an inexplicable off day, or let an apprentice or someone like that work on the sleeves initially....

    Hope springs eternal, anyway. :)
     
  10. clintonf

    clintonf Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure whether this is possible, but if you are going to (or already have) request sleeve from Tom Ford (or Zegna) and you are REALLY concerned about the possible issues that you would have, would you consider enquiring with Tom Ford if you could send the suit to one of their approved tailors (if such things exists).

    I have absolutely no idea of whether this can be done or whether the costs of this will make it prohibitive. But if it were me, I would tell my "Story" to someone from T.F. and throw myself on their "mercy".

    Just a thought.
     
  11. clintonf

    clintonf Well-Known Member

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    Sorry just read this. ^^This.
     
  12. Quarks

    Quarks Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the condolences guys.

    The first tailor ruined the buttonholes.
    The second tailor (more experienced than the 1st - apparently- does bespoke suits) could not re-correct the buttonholes for me as it was beyond repair, and he will be re-attaching the sleeves for me.
    I will be meeting up with him, hopefully conveying across how roped I want the shoulders to be. I'll be bringing my other Tom Ford suit jacket to let him have an idea. That won't happen for another 6-8 weeks so I have a chance to back out.

    The other option is to bring it to Tom Ford (Hong Kong). They have done buttonholes for my brother's TF sports coat with brilliant results.
    And they may be able to do a better job at re-attaching the sleeves with the better consistency. Who knows. I will have to call them & ask them directly. I was told by a TF representative that if you have bought a suit unfinished from TF, you can bring it to any TF store around the world to have them fixed at no extra charge. Obviously, my case is unique so I would have to speak to them.

    The store has been great at handling this so far. They acknowledged the poor workmanship when I pointed out to them (however, did not mention anything when they called me in). Comparing it side by side with a finished TF jacket, the comparison is even more appalling. They are not asking to pay a single cent for the mistake their recommended tailor made. Everything they have offered me are at their expense. At this point anyways.
     
  13. Quarks

    Quarks Well-Known Member

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    I am contemplating emailing TF representative........ not sure if I should.


    Thanks. I will research & ask around if anyone is capable of doing it.
     
  14. JayJay

    JayJay Well-Known Member

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    I've had experience with having a sleeve replaced, and for the same reason. A few years back when the button holes were being cut on my sleeves, the person doing the alteration accidentally cut into both sides of the sleeve. The store was able to get a piece of the exact fabric, and have an experienced tailor replace the sleeve. I still have the suit, and the job was done so well that I don't even remember which sleeve was replaced.
     
  15. Quarks

    Quarks Well-Known Member

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    ^^^^ May I ask where was it done?
     
  16. JayJay

    JayJay Well-Known Member

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    A men's shop in Indiana. The suit was an Isaia.
     
  17. ridefar

    ridefar Active Member

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    Bottom line... why wouldnt you? Unless you didnt buy it from a TF store or boutique, why not? I would email them, explain the situation, and throw yourself at their mercy. I would also do it soon, because typically TF fabrics run out pretty quickly. It seems like you have sleeves on the way, so that is probably not an issue, but you could well run into a situation where there is no more fabric in that pattern and color available. That would be bad. Honestly, I wouldnt take it anywhere else but a TF store, and have them ship it back to the factory, at this point. I wouldnt trust the tailor at my TF store to do that and have it look good--there is way to much interesting stuff going on in terms of structure, cavassing, roping, etc. as others have pointed out. Your chance of it going wrong is high. And you still wont have the buttons done the right way. Just send it back. I can appreciate that financially that may suck. A lot. But if you care enough to wear TF in the first place, then get it done right.
     
  18. marblehouse

    marblehouse Well-Known Member

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    +1

    And another vote for at least approaching TF directly - they be helpful and/or take sympathy with your situation. I would also work with the original department store to pay/offset the cost of the alterations.

    Also - if you don't mind me asking - where did you buy the suit?
     
  19. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

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    Better bring it to TF; otherwise, better reread FC's points to manage your expectations.
     
  20. tchoy

    tchoy Well-Known Member

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    I agreed with others that you should take back to Tom Ford. I know of two bespoke tailors in Sydney that are capable of doing the work you require but usually they only do alteration for existing clients. If you can't find someone capable to do the work send me a pm.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2012

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