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Neckties: A Discussion Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Sep 15, 2015.

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  1. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    I'm a notorious picker, so when I forget to actually even things up, I find myself being comically mindful of not creating snags.

    I swear I deserve a Nobel of some sort when I manage to knot my Charvets sans snags in such cases lol.
     
    2 people like this.
  2. dazedstate

    dazedstate Well-Known Member

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    I love it. That was my first thought... "what is this? A Charvet?"
     
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  3. 41L35W

    41L35W Member

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    I wanted to show off today's tie, a Christmas present. It is a Marshall Anthony.

    [ATTACHMENT=12505]image.jpeg (693k. jpeg file)[/ATTACHMENT]
     
  4. Jay Suave

    Jay Suave Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Same thing happened to my Drake's brown/navy floral rosette tie (currently on discount on the Drake's website).
    However I spotted the run before I wore it and was able to return it hassle free. Sorry for your loss.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  5. dazedstate

    dazedstate Well-Known Member

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    Actually eHaberdasher is taking it back and letting me exchange for something else. That are even covering return shipping costs. I cannot sing enough praise about them.
     
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  6. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    Great minds...
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. SO1891

    SO1891 New Member

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    When would it be appropriate to wear a black tie with white/silver polka dots? Thinking about getting one since i like the look but it might be easier to get away with navy background...

    for example:


    [​IMG]
     
  8. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    SO1891: Dressy city applications. Looks great with a pink shirt and a light gray suit. When the ground is navy, that tie pattern is called a "Churchill dot" after Winston, who wore them daily.

    That tie looks like a satin weave, or pretty close: If I wanted a spotted tie like that, I'd go for a weave with more texture: basket or diamond weave. Sets off the dots better, IMO.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2016
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  9. Veremund

    Veremund Well-Known Member

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    Evenings for sure as well.
     
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  10. junglcmndo

    junglcmndo Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if this is the right place for this question, but if it isnt please direct me to where it should be. When customizing a tie and given the choice how do you decide how many folds should be in a tie? Should it be lined or unlined? Is this all personal preference for each individual?

    Thanks
     
  11. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    The basic answer is yes, to all...though how much you're looking/willing to spend will dictate some of your choices.

    My best piece of caution: don't go with something fully unlined until you KNOW that's what you want.
     
  12. junglcmndo

    junglcmndo Well-Known Member

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    Haha ok thanks. I don't know much I just know I ordered a tie from Vanda and they don't give you a choice as far as folds and such. Was thinking of branching out to some of the other brands that people talk about on here such as hober and capelli but they give all options. Guess I will wait and research a little more till i take a dive.
     
  13. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Well-Known Member

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    A strong yes - I could not say it better.

    It is very rare that an unlined tie is the best choice.

    Unless you have a strong preference stay with the classic lined 3-fold (4-fold for grenadines).

    If you like a heavier tie try a lined 6-fold construction.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    @junglcmndo may I ask which Vanda you went with? If it was unlined, you'll get an idea for what I mean. In any event, unlined or otherwise, you'll be happy with your purchase. Vanda is great.

    That said, I'd still recommend branching out and trying some others, namely Hober and Cappelli as you mentioned. There's a reason they're so well liked here/

    @Sam Hober out of curiosity, what are (assuming any) situations where you would say totally unlined is the optimal choice?
     
  15. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Well-Known Member

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    Eric Gereghty,

    A good question and the first thought that comes to mind is that some men love the small details that go into hand folding an unlined 7-fold - so if that is the case then an unlined 7-fold is a good idea.

    Once I experimented with a heavy rough silk making an unlined tie thinking that the unlined part of the construction would help with the overall drape - it did not - so we remade the tie with a wool interlining.

    We make some bow ties that are unlined and they have an interesting unstructured look.

    Just yesterday a gentleman was discussing the tie construction for his current order and he wanted a small knot which happens with an unlined tie but he also wanted a nice full and structured knot which unlined ties don't always provide. After laying out my thoughts for him it will now be his decision and we will follow what he requests.

    In summary an unlined construction is optimal when the man has a personal preference for it - fashion, emotions and feelings are real and I respect them.

    I can't think of a situation where an unlined construction is optimal from a practical perspective - a long time ago unlined ties evolved from scarves and ascots.

    Then wool interlinings started to be used; and for a good reason, they keep the tie from wrinkling and losing structure.
     
    2 people like this.
  16. bry2000

    bry2000 Well-Known Member

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    I have a truly unlined 7-fold tie from Carlo Franco, a brand which was a one-time styleforum sensation that ultimately flamed out. Long time members will know what I am talking about.

    I actually like the unlined 7-fold tie construction. It is definitely not for everyone and it will never be my go-to tie construction, but it is a nice change of pace when you have an overabundance of ties.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    @Sam Hober do you have any pics of unlined bows by chance?
     
  18. taxgenius

    taxgenius Well-Known Member

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    I forgot about him. Thanks for reminding me. [​IMG]
     
  19. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Well-Known Member

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    Ericgereghty,

    I am not sure but I will look.

    Sorry I can't answer quickly...

    As for the Carlo Franco ties - I remember them and Chuck clearly posted that his ties were mainly - (if not all) lined 6-folds which he creatively called double 4-folds as I recall - although I could be wrong it was a long time ago.

    I never could figure out how he added up to 8 folds on a 6-fold tie - a true sartorial mystery.

    Maybe later he did do some true completely unlined 7-folds but I never saw or heard of any...

    Also in the beginning he seemed to be a nice guy not sure what happened to him.

     
  20. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Well-Known Member

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    Don't worry on any delayed responses. It's more to pique my curiosity than anything.
     

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