1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,019
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Paris & SF
    The suit and the sportcoat are mine, although I'm lusting over that overcoat as well. [​IMG]

    We experimented a bit this time around. This is my first mohair suit, and the peak lapels came out rather nicely. For the sportcoat, the gorge was lowered a bit while the lapels narrowed a touch, and this is the first example I've seen of Mina's double stitching.
     
  2. hatguy

    hatguy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    203
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2010
    very nice mte. i wish mina would come to dc.
     
  3. coolpapa

    coolpapa Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,663
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2007
    Location:
    Princeton
    very nice mte. i wish mina would come to dc.

    Is taking the train too much trouble?
     
  4. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    459
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2010
    I take the bus down from Philly. I kinda wish she went to Singapore lol.
     
  5. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    Some beautiful jackets Mina. Any chance you may have photos of double-breasted jackets?
     
  6. Parker

    Parker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,755
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Location:
    Yerba Buena
    Beautiful Mina. Really like the fabric on the brown sportcoat - is that Dormeuil?

    Very nice, Mina! Really like that brown jacket, too.


    PSA: for anyone interested, NSM will be in San Francisco this week April 8-9.
     
  7. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,656
    Joined:
    May 23, 2009
    The grey coat looks very nice, what a lovely shoulder.
     
  8. alliswell

    alliswell Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,992
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2007
    Le ultime.
    Buon weekend.
    Ciao


    Ora ho pauro. Quest'è il mio?
     
  9. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,128
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    [​IMG]

    This is Sr. Antonio, a maestro with over 40 years of tailoring expertise with Rubinacci, Matuozzo and Panico - and for the last 3 years exclusively for Mina. Mina and Dino will be the first to tell you that it is very odd indeed to see Sr. Antonio crack a grin or smile. He's a crusty old artisan with very firm and sometimes uncompromising beliefs on construction, fit and aesthetics. I think I amuse him with my Italian, to which he responds in Napoletano, after which I turn to Mina for translation. Last night I learned that my PoW suit is the very first time he has gone full-hog Napoletano for any American customer, and I suspect this more than anything else was cause for a grin.

    FUN FACT: Sr. Antonio was the recipient of the Golden Scissors - Italy's premier tailoring competition - for 5 consecutive years. Think about that for a moment; he's the Schumacher of the scissors, thread and needle. No wonder he is in such demand, with continual attempts to poach him from many of the names well-respected here by our community. Indeed, these are internationally-renowned brands which can rely much on their reputation, but Sr. Antonio is one of the very few magicians with the rare ability to infuse garments with life and soul. It is due in part to his skills that these houses were able to build their reputations. At the same time, his personality is such that he can be molto duro (very hard), and is certainly not in his element at the "front of the house." He prefers to remain in the background, and together with Mina they have forged a highly effective and productive relationship based on shared ideals, agreement on how things should be done (and importantly, what should NOT be done), and mutual respect for one another. Don't hold your breath to see him in the US, since he's always got a cigarette dangling from the lips, and with the flights to the US I'm concerned he might kill a fellow passenger even before entering Swiss airspace. [​IMG]

    Given his modesty, Sr. Antonio would doubtless not be too pleased to see his picture nor accomplishments so publicly displayed, but I don't expect him to join us here on SF anytime soon. With all the deserved interest in Mina and NSM, I only thought it proper to introduce Sr. Antonio as the key "man behind the throne." So - those of you who would like to work directly with a true master, get your ass to Naples. Basta.



    I am sure he is a great, talented tailor (as I can see from the pictures), however is the second time that I hear referral to the Golden Scissor (I have posted on the London Lounge and someone PM about this thread). Here is the link to the Golden Scissor winner, and there was a one time winner from Naples called Antonio, in 1962 Mr Antonio Fortunato (is he the one?).

    http://accademianazionaledeisartori....orbicidoro.htm

    It is common in Naples to refer to Tailor winning the Forbici D'oro even if they won only the regional selection (there is another young tailor that built a large clientele by newspaper articles claiming so...)
     
  10. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,019
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Paris & SF
    Dino, Parker & I on the mean (and windy) streets of San Francisco. note: I'm wearing a NSM shirt as well, sleeves are being recut approximately 2cm longer.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Looking good guys.

    E: Have you considered making your coat a bit longer? I like Parker's coat more, primarily due to its length. I know you remain keen to preserve the Neapolitan origins of the garment, but I think another 1.5-2.0cm would still allow you to do so, while enhancing the appearance of the coat.
     
  12. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Looking good guys.

    E: Have you considered making your coat a bit longer? I like Parker's coat more, primarily due to its length. I know you remain keen to preserve the Neapolitan origins of the garment, but I think another 1.5-2.0cm would still allow you to do so, while enhancing the appearance of the garment.


    You will be tried for crimes against Style Forvm.
     
  13. mmkn

    mmkn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,442
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2007
    length

    Easily explained.

    E. got the under 50 years old cut, while P. got the over 50 cut [sorry Parker, not your age, but style].

    Like Solito!

    [​IMG]

    - M

    Oh, and Dino got the perfect cut!
     
  14. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    19,128
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    If I was in Milan and saw Eddie in that jacket it would seem normal. But it is short by our domestic standards. However, Eddie is fit and trim enough to pull it off anywhere.

    I, on the other hand asked Mina to make mine on the longer side that and that will probably put me into the same camp as Parker. That should make it more versatile and give me a few more years of wear. My experience is that anything too tight, too loose, too short or too long goes out of style sooner.
     
  15. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,721
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2006
    Location:
    Capital M
    Looking good guys. Do you find the buttoning point to be relatively high?
     
  16. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,019
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Paris & SF
    E: Have you considered making your coat a bit longer? I like Parker's coat more, primarily due to its length. I know you remain keen to preserve the Neapolitan origins of the garment, but I think another 1.5-2.0cm would still allow you to do so, while enhancing the appearance of the coat.

    I would certainly consider going longer a bit. My pattern has evolved incrementally over the past year - shoulders extended, gorge lowered and lapels narrowed. I'm curious as to how my sportcoat lengths compare with those of my suit coats. I'd measure right now but I'm prepping an international move and my stuff is all over the place...
     
  17. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,503
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    I'd measure right now but I'm prepping an international move and my stuff is all over the place...

    Are you saying your personal life comes before Style Forum? Preposterous!

    Regarding the length of the coats and buttoning points, it's really all personal preference. I'll be having my first fitting in a few weeks with Mina and I plan on going for things a bit closer to Parker's jacket than the others. I like my jackets old-man-ish to go with my OCBD's. :^)
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Are you saying your personal life comes before Style Forum? Preposterous!

    Regarding the length of the coats and buttoning points, it's really all personal preference. I'll be having my first fitting in a few weeks with Mina and I plan on going for things a bit closer to Parker's jacket than the others. I like my jackets old-man-ish to go with my OCBD's. :^)


    Be prepared to fight tooth and nail for your preference.
     
  19. Baron

    Baron Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,190
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2004
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Dino's buttoning point seems notably high to me, but the whole look might be thrown out of whack by the sweater he's wearing, which doesn't quite fit under that jacket.
     
  20. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    19,128
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    Be prepared to fight tooth and nail for your preference.

    I don't know, my most recent email from Mina said "As for your jacket, you do not worry it will be as you ask."
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by