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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2014
  2. Kaplan

    Kaplan Well-Known Member

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    While it's odd that it should be necessary, it's also not really a big deal so I just supplied the info.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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    I think this may be due to them delivering some or most garments during the trips they make, therefore having not materials proof of delivering outside EU for IVA (value added tax, only applicable within EU) exclusions. Full clients details must be declared on tax forms. With my family business back home we some time ship out containers and that makes the declarations easy as they happen at the port.
     
  4. alliswell

    alliswell Well-Known Member

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    Nope.


    He's a 38.
     
  5. Leaves

    Leaves Well-Known Member

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    Have to agree about the shoes. A pair of G&G Cambridge in Vintage Oak, or say, a pair of EG Dover in Mink Suede would greatly improve that extremely nice outfit.

    In regards of lapels, I'm all for wide ones, but one has to have the frame for it, of course.

    This is my first suit from NSM. Lapel is about 10 cm, shoulder about 19.5 cm. My next SCs will have the same width lapels but one even slightly wider, a brown Donegal, the cloth called for it IMO, I'll post pics later when I get it. Feedback welcome.
    [​IMG]

    Sorry for the crappy iPhone pic.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    On the one hand, that sounds like a very funny book. On the other I'm not sure I want to know where my surgeon's hands have been.
     
  7. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Nice post.

     
    2 people like this.
  8. S K M

    S K M Well-Known Member

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    Looking great from what I can see! I really hope NSM would stop by Copenhagen one day so feel free to pitch the idea for them next time they're around. Stockholm is a bit far, even when living in Copenhagen :(
     
  9. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    A lot of work to make this post but nothing mentioned here is relevant or accurate.

    What all three jackets have in common is canvass. What is different is how the maker wants to form/shape the canvass to sit on the shoulder. NSM stretches the canvass and it turns up. The others don't. The Rubi is tight at the shoulder point and doesn't touch the neck. For the shoulder to be concave or straight or sometimes convex is all about the construction technique and all of these can be done with or without using shoulder pads.

    The red line produced on the jacket is an outline of the internal seam of the jacket and the sleeve which are both turned under the shoulder.

    Almost all, 99.9%, of sleeves have a sleeve head attached, not on the shoulder but at the top/crown of the sleeve. The sleeve head is made from different fabrics or a mix of different materials sewn on the outlet of the sleeve to fill in the crown and front of the sleeve and continues to just past the seam on the back of the sleeve. Some like thin sleeve heads or maybe just a bias cut piece of hymo or soft fleece. It's all up to the maker and the expression they want to create.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2014
    9 people like this.
  10. kulata

    kulata Well-Known Member

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    Probably puts an end to the misguided pa fucked argument and get people to post great clothing
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2014
  11. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    It is amazing what can be done with simple shaping in a jacket...
     
  12. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Well-Known Member

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  13. mkarim

    mkarim Well-Known Member

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    +100
     
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    Funny enough the shoulder on the Rubinacci is by far the most extended. To the point where people who generally don't notice these things will comment on it.

    But maybe you mean something else by 'tight at the shoulder point.'
     
    2 people like this.
  15. coolpapa

    coolpapa Well-Known Member

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    So much win.
     
  16. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Cantabrigian, I notice your NSM has a lot more drape than mine. Was it a request?
     
  17. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    At my last visit with Mina and Dino, it came out that Sic Tess cottons are by Bonfanti. Had anyone else heard that? It would explain why those feel as nice as they do.
     
  18. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    I'd be surprised. I've only purchased from Bonfanti 3-4 times, but it always seemed like a small operation. Not sure they would have the capacity.
     
  19. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Mina said she knows this because she paid Bonfanti directly for it. Not sure if it is all the fabrics or just the one I was looking at. I thought it was the linen. . .
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2014
  20. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    Interesting- was it linen/cotton? There was one in the SIC Tess book that looks exactly like what I just had made up from Bonfanti.....
     

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