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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Foo -
    I looked through earlier posts and didn't see whether this was addressed. I apologize for the redundancy if you have already addressed this. Honest questions: Do you not agree that in Canta's photos below, the NsM looks a lot like the Solito? Do you agree that Solito is a Neapolitan (TM) tailor? Is the difference between the NsM and Solito shoulders, the more angled upturn at the end, the mistake you are identifying?

     
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  2. whnay.

    whnay. Well-Known Member

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    That's a cool comparison - the end of the Mina shoulder does look a little funky but not obnoxiously so.

    Hard to argue with the LH shoulder....
     
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  3. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    That is good example. The NSM and Solito seem to be made the same way, except the Solito canvassing at the tip follows the shoulder line better whereas the NSM levels off. To me, the Solito is clearly the best. I actually don't like the way the LH shoulder extension drops, though I have said that before. To my mind, the LH and NSM are pretty much the same in that they draw attention to the artifice. I do think the NSM target is likely the Solito, so in that sense, they have missed the mark, whereas the LH shoulder is doing what LH intended.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
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  4. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    Every time someone comes into my shop wearing an NSM garment, I cringe.
    I don't even have to ask them where they got the suit and in one case an overcoat.

    I see so much that I do not like.
    I am also not a fan of the interior construction.
    those weird folded outlets inside. i even found some glue holding one in place.

    the very soft canvas is quite nice. but the shoulder really bothers me.

    I much prefer either a true natural shoulder for really soft tailoring
    or
    the very structured garments that I wear from Smalto and Feruch made in paris for my father.

    This my opinion.
    I am not saying her garments are right or wrong. Her customers have to decide if they really like the fit and look
    or if this is just another example of group-think!
     
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  5. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    My solitos all look more like the Rubinacci example. My one NSM does look more or less like that one.
     
  6. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    now I will have to check my Solitos. They are primarily summer-weight so I haven't looked in a while.
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    I think the upturn on the NSM is far more acute and distinct than on the Solito--to the point that I'm not sure they are caused by the same thing. In any event, the other Solito jackets I've seen don't have that effect at all. They tend to be very similar to Rubinacci in being fully convex.

    Also, the NSM upturn is not always like Cantabrigian's example. In many other cases, like Vox's, it begins far shorter of the scye.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Ok - but this is the feature that you're identifying, yes?
     
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  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    What, on the NSM? Yes. I cannot say if it is the same thing as what's happening on the Solito. Like I said, that particular Solito is not typical of what I've seen. For it to be a "feature," it would have to be consistent across examples.
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that example looks like the way it is supposed to be. The others there is like a divot about a third of the way up the shoulder line.

    I've said it before, but I have experienced this in a few different ways:

    1. Armhole is too small
    2. Back shoulders are too tight
     
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Just ran across this photo:

    [​IMG]

    This guy runs a place called "La Vera Sartoria Napoletana" so you know it's gotta be legit.
     
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  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Put another way, if NSM jackets didn't have a notched or sudden upturn, but were more gently concave through-and-through as C.'s Solito appears, I'd have no problem with it. Whether "Neapolitan" or not doesn't even enter the picture because it's not ugly and is essentially a soft pagoda.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    He might even be wearing a chambray shirt, further adding to his credibility.
     
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  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Don't understand--are you arguing against yourself now?

    To argue in your favor, that guy is not standing straight-up, which could cause any shoulder do take on that effect. However, if it looks that way normally . . . pa-fucked.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    I'm not really trying to be argumentative about what's right or wrong or Neapolitan or not Neapolitan. Just saw the photo and thought it was relevant to this discussion.
     
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  16. CaymanS

    CaymanS Well-Known Member

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    First he outed SG for using polyester, now he's outing NSM for using fusible. Carl, if you keep this up, you're gonna need full-time security detail.
     
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  17. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    You must've missed the thread about how using fusible at certain parts of the coat are okay and virtually all tailors do it.

    Found the thread.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/344724/tailor-pulling-my-leg
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  18. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    it was just under the fold of the side seams.
    and there was not a lot of it. just a little dab.
    i was just surprised when i found it.
     
  19. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    it wasn't a piece of fusing.... it was a dab of glue.. like from a glue gun!!!!!

    something has to keep the huge seam allowance in place

    either ED Morel or Alliswell were there at the time
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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