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my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    IMO NSM DBs are the best coat they make. I have 2 and 2 more OTW. I wouldn't mind going the "medwards option" whole hog. I'm kinda headed that way.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    You won't see that in what they finally delivered to me. But the pics on line are often very nice. Another website with nice style is that of Panico. Obviously Neapolitan, but quite reserved.
     
  3. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    I too am a DB fan, though not ready to go full medwards yet.
     
  4. Concordia

    Concordia Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't surprise me. Many of the little quirks that sometimes overwhelm their SB jackets (to me, anyway) would be nearly impossible to transfer to DB style.
     
  5. taxgenius

    taxgenius Well-Known Member

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    Can you expand on this thought?
     
  6. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    some of the A&S expats (and some say A&S itself) cut a great DB but can't cut a decent SB to save their lives.

    In fact, I would say that all the A&S offshoots have DB down pat but SB is very problematic for a lot of them ...
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    ^ Manton: could it be that you are the only satisfied American customer of Solito? I don't ask that Q in jest - apart from myself, I know of 2 other people (not of this forum) who have ordered from him, and both have been annoyed by the process and frustrated by the end product.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Who could not be frustrated with the process??

    But I am happy with the end product, I have 8 and I love them all. The DB was a little funky at first but he fixed it. As for the others, the trouble I have had were short left sleeves (always the left and only on some coats) but all of those have also been rectified.
     
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    I noticed in a recent interview you cited Solito as your 'go-to' tailor for the foreseeable future. Curious how you intend to place future orders - are you also transitioning to a no-fittings model like whnay / Foo?

    Foo: my coats from Mina are quite a bit more relaxed than her default model. She's relatively flexible.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2013
  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    Matt, I'm unclear what you dislike about the shoulder line. It has a sloped and swooping effect, vaguely pagoda like, though not really. Chris Despos has pointed out that the shoulder line can sometimes be a bit bumpy. That I see, both on examples posted here and on my own jacket. I'm not a tailoring expert, so I can't say what might be the cause for that. I agree the line would be better without it. But what is it about the NSM shoulder line you dislike, if not that?

    Mina's default, from my experience, is something a bit leaner and shorter than what I and some other members here would prefer, but she accommodates and is flexible within reason. I actually appreciate her push back on things, but she's taken things back and adjusted them for me to the way I like them. I think it's a nice balance of providing a service, but also being accommodating to clients' preferences.
     
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    I do fittings for things that are completely new forms. Otherwise, I typically go straight to finished product. Whatever changes need to be made are very minimal, so it isn't a problem.

    In a couple of instances where the mistakes could not be fixed, the tailor simply remade the garment.


    If the NSM shoulders were actual pagoda shoulders, that would be one thing--but they aren't. Rather, they seem to be natural, egg-shaped shoulders that trumpet outward a couple inches from the sleevehead. I am no tailoring expert myself, but it looks as if the armhole is too wide or too tall or both. Hence, the shoulder line winds up "bumpy." In contrast, the shoulder line of a pagoda shoulder would follow a single concave curve, from neck to sleevehead.

    It's inelegant and looks like a mistake. The actual cause? I can only guess.


    Well, every tailor has a default approach to cut, and there is always pushing back and forth to vary from it. It just seems to me that you are more assured of good results the less you ask them to vary.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2013
  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    Matt, assuming what I understand you to be saying is correct, then there seems to be two separate claims. One is that you think there's some "trumpeting" as you move towards the armhole. The other is that the shoulder line is a bit bumpy.

    I can see and agree with the second. I really have no idea what causes it since I'm not a tailor. And I agree it would be better if it were a smoother, straighter line, but the matter is rather small. I've been planning to bring up the issue with Dino when I see him next time in San Francisco, but on the list of things that could go wrong on a garment, I think in real life - outside of internet robo poses - this is barely noticeable. But I agree, it could be better.

    The first issue, I admit, I don't see at all. If I'm understanding your description correctly, I actually associate this detail more with Rubinacci, possibly because - if I remember correctly - it was described exactly as such in their vanity book ("trumpeting"). I actually like it and think of it as a bit more old school, but it's not something I've ever seen on NSM.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I don't think the trumpeting you're talking about is related to the shoulder line, but I'm in no position to say since I have no technical training.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2013
  13. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    If that shoulder twist is not expected it just means the shoulders don't fit. Happens to me when the coat's shoulders aren't cut for my forward thrust clavicle. However, in Vox's jackets that shoulder shape might be intentional...
     
  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    Actually, I just remembered: Rubinacci described - or rather Nick Foulkes described - their sleeveheads as trumpeting, not the body of the jacket itself. I'm still somewhat confused on what Matt means by that, but if he means what I think he means, I still think the Rubi jackets pictured above are more illustrative of this effect than anything I've seen from NSM.
     
  15. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    Is it short on the left or do you have a dropped right shoulder? I used to wonder why my right sleeve on my coats seemed longer, until one day, a new tailor (not so new anymore) I used put a little extra wadding in the right shoulder to level them, and the sleeves were perfect. Shortening the sleeves is the simpler option, and probably the best if one doesn't want too much wadding in the shoulders.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  16. Victor Elfo

    Victor Elfo Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Trumpeting at its best.
    (Btw, I'm fond of this detail)
     
  17. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    On me, the shoulder line follows the contour of my trapezius from the neck to the acromium. The shoulder line is horizontal from the acromium to the sleeve. I think the wadding from the extended sleevehead contributes to the horizontal line that you are seeing a the end of the shoulder. I find that this effect is less pronounced with heavier fabrics and more conspicuous with lighter fabrics.
     
  18. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    That's why lighter fabrics, from what I've observed, seem to be a (pardon my language) bitch to work with (relative to heavier stuff). Tailor would probably need to be more skilled or, at least extremely experienced with such lightweight fabrics so he'll know how they'll 'behave'. Heavier fabrics would probably drape right over uneven shoulders, bumps and all, which is why, I think, it's harder to get an overcoat wrong than it is a suit.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  19. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    There is also the sleeve allowance that is pressed and tacked to the shoulder line that contributes to the unevenness.
     
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Mina and Dino absolutely do not claim to do this. But as others have noted, if you want a jacket a little longer than what they usually do, or less tight, or with less waterfall effect on the shoulders, that they can definitely do. With the tightness and length and things like that, if it's your first jacket, usually Mina will tell you that she'll make up a jacket how she normally would for you, and then at the first fitting you can tell her if you like it or if you'd like it longer, looser, lower buttoning point, whatever.
     

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