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MTM Time. Bday is coming up and Fiancee is buying me 3 suits and 2 sports coats. Since i get to star

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by quaker13, Oct 25, 2012.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Do you like softer shoulders or more constructed shoulders? Extended shoulders? Do you like your jacket shorter or longer? How many buttons? Do you like having a ticket pocket? How many vents do you want? Flat or pleated pants? Do you like a higher rise on your pants or a lower rise? Do you like to have a full chest with some drape or a cleaner chest? Peak or notch lapels? What width? Bellied or straight? How open do you want the quarters? How tapered do you want the pants? What weight cloth do you want? Where do you want the buttoning point?

    These are just some of the things you'll have to decide. You may find after wearing something for a bit that your preferences change. And many of these things will be either something you have to develop over time with a particular tailor (how tapered the pants, how much drape in the chest, shoulder extension, etc.), or possibly is unattainable for you with this tailor, especially if it's MTM so that they're starting from a fixed pattern rather than drawing one just for you.
     
  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Also, I don't know what you mean by "reputable MTM shop", but go look through the Indochino thread for plenty of examples of online MTM jobs gone wrong.
     
  3. sns23

    sns23 Well-Known Member

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    I would not get so many MTM pieces done at once. Get one of each item. If they turn out well, place a second order when you pick up the first.
     
  4. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Well-Known Member

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    To the OP,

    What is your fiancee's budget for 3 suits and 2 sport coats?

    Where do you live?

    What do you want them for? If for work, what industry are you in? What level are you in term of seniority? What do you wear to work now?

    What is your body type? Height an weight?

    Are you doing this MTM thing online or in a brick and mortar store?
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2012
  5. quaker13

    quaker13 Well-Known Member

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    I see what you mean. Well for starters I can't really see the difference in soft vs. constructed so I guess I would have to inspect the 2 shoulder styles physically. don't know what my preference is in terms of a jacket being shorter or longer i guess i would have to see som examples. i like 2 buttons. i hate ticket pockets. 2 vents. flat pants. lower rise pant. jacket quarters (something i just learned about in the last 2 minutes) i would have to think about. have no idea about the draping question. medium to light weight fabric because DC winters don't get too harsh. no idea about buttoning point
     
  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    ^You have many decisions to make still. Typically when you go into a shop, they just measure you, ask you what fabric you want, maybe a couple of details like ticket pocket or no, and then send you on your way. If they're feeling diligent they may have you try on some base models so you see how they feel and get an idea of what you like - this allows you to pick a basic template from which to start. But say you wanted minimally padded shoulders but a peak lapel - they may not have a base model like that, and may not be able to customize to that degree. It depends on the shop.

    Anyway, I hope at this point you're beginning to see what I mean - when you go the store, unless you really know what you want, you'll get, with some small variation, what the shop wants to give you. That may turn out really well, it may not, and you may not realize it's not what you want until later, and then you may realize that shop is incapable of giving you what you want. Better to figure this out one suit in than five suits in.
     
  7. quaker13

    quaker13 Well-Known Member

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    5k-6k. DC, but reluctantly willing to travel to NYC for the MTM. Work, but one of them in particular will be for the wedding next year. CPA. Mid-level seniority. Brick and Mortar store

    http://gossipcenter.com/jeremy-renner/photo/jeremy-renner-41

    http://gossipcenter.com/jeremy-renner/photo/jeremy-renner-46
     
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    If haven't chosen your shop yet, let me suggest suit supply. The price is quite reasonable, fabric and construction quality are good, and they have a few base models that you can choose from and customize and adjust measurements from there. At the very least, go by there and try on some of their models just to start to get an idea of what's out there.
     
  9. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    But not while you're wearing it!
     
  10. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

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    OP, I think what people are trying to say is that taking a picture or pictures into an MTM shop will not necessarily translate into immediate success and a flawless suit. Maybe it will work out fine. Maybe you have taken everything people have suggested into account already. Scaling back to one suit will allow you evaluate the end result without having to deal with any problems x 3.
     
  11. sns23

    sns23 Well-Known Member

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    I would also look into Brooks Brothers MTM. I've had success with it. 20% promotion going on right now.
     
  12. quaker13

    quaker13 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome, I didnt know they had one in Georgetown. 5k goes a long way there i see
     
  13. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    Is there a reason you need made to measure?
     
  14. quaker13

    quaker13 Well-Known Member

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    I just figured it would be a great investment and i've been talking to my fiancee about how much of a pain in the ass it is to get a decent fitting suit when you're the average size of a nfl outside linebacker (6'3 235-240).

    i saw a made to measure thread on this forum a while back and have been obsessed with the notion of it ever since
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2012
  15. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    3-4 or 4-3 outside linebackers?
     
  16. quaker13

    quaker13 Well-Known Member

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  17. mcbrown

    mcbrown Well-Known Member

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    Ok, being a tough fit is a pretty good reason to buy MTM - you don't need to buy a "nice" RTW suit to know that you're an unusual body type.

    Having said that, it is still wise to start with one and live with it for a while before you commission another. You'll learn a lot from the experience that will guide you in the future.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2012
  18. Longmorn

    Longmorn Well-Known Member

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    This suggestion highlights the variations previous posters have tried to bring to your attention. Brooks Brothers suits are a particular style, and even within that style there are three different base models (not counting the Black Fleece stuff). As UBR pointed out, there's a ton of variations that are hard to fully capture without an expert's lexicon.

    Building off what other's have said, I'd suggest a systematic approach: take a few Saturdays and go round to as many different MTM shops (from Dash's of Old Town to William Fox and Co to Streets of Georgetown to Suit Supply, etc.) and RTW places as you can stand to try things on, experience the differences, and ask as many questions as you can. See if you can get the sales associates to help you describe what you're seeing as you try on each suit. Focus on things you particularly like or dislike in how they fit and look, and don't forget to see how they feel when you move around in them. In the process you may well find an MTM place that seems like a good option, and even if you don't you'll be better prepared to work with whomever you end up choosing.

    Along those lines, the Oxxford trunk show at Neiman Marcus in Friendship Heights is this Friday and Saturday. While way out of your price range, it might be worth your while to go up, try on the Oxxford and learn from the company reps who will be there. Not that you're going to find the exact same thing in a ~$1200 suit, but the conversation and comparison between Oxxford, Brioni, Zegna, Kiton, Cucinelli, Etro, etc. will help you understand the range of styles and construction details that are available. Couple that with perusing the SF threads on particular schools of tailoring (such as the Anderson and Sheppard Expatriates and Show me Your Chan) and reading through Jeff Diduch's excellent blog ( http://www.tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/ ). By the time you're done you'll be in a much better position to articulate what you're after to a tailor, and to judge whether that tailor (or company) can deliver.

    Bottom line - better to take it slow and educate yourself than dive in and be disappointed with the results.

    Cheers,
    LM
     
  19. quaker13

    quaker13 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for taking the time to respond. I will definitely try to make it up to neimans this saturday. If you should happen to be there feel free to say hi and give me a secret styleforum tap on the shoulder
     

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