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Mod to Suedehead

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Spirit of 69, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Well-Known Member

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    I was 16 in 1969 and most of my immediate friends were 15 - 17 then. There were a group of slightly older guys who were very sharp but more in a Mod way and, arguably, better dressed for it!

    I agree our parents had instilled in us the need to dress for the seasons (or rather for the weather) but, apart from swapping short sleeve shirts for long I don't recall many changes. For example mohair, POW and dogtooth suits were year-round as were most of our trousers and jeans. Harringtons could be year-round if you put enough layers on under them and didn't hang about in the cold! Royals and boots were season-less too. Even on holiday there were not really any 'special clothes' as the many pics from Bunty, for example, reveal.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2013
  2. Bob the Badger

    Bob the Badger Well-Known Member

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    I bought a pair of the M&S Blue Harbour cords today and for the price they are pretty good. I like the fit on the waist etc.I don't see them as skinhead wear but they remind me of a brand called GB's (made in UK) that used to be sold in Debenhams in the 1980's. In the end I suppose we all gravitate to M&S. I just wish they would start making their clothes in the UK again.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Well-Known Member

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    Mr Knightley,I am interested to know what you think of elwoods post yesterday about the length of raincoats and why the length may have become shorter ?. ( more car use ).
    I think that he is spot on and I think other changes in how people live their lives may have changed more clothes styles,this wont be just a modern thing though ,as I expect when horse riding died out certain fashions changed.
     
  4. browniecj

    browniecj Well-Known Member

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    About right.
     
  5. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Well-Known Member

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    Still thinking on that one.....
     
  6. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Well-Known Member

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    What style are they? Cut like trousers rather than jeans?

    I have some M&S 'Sartorial' navy cords that I bought last winter. Very good quality but rather staid somehow. Look best teamed with a classic tweed jacket and brogues - that sort of thing.



    [​IMG]
     
  7. Clouseau

    Clouseau Well-Known Member

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    I think the answer is simple and has nothing to do with fashion or car use. It's just because if it's shorter it's less material, so it's cheaper for the maker an there are more benefits. For some years now clothes are shorter, but prizes are higher.
    If you think of it, you'll realize it's true for other items than macs. Polos are shorter than they were, as knitwear, as trousers, etc...
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2013
  8. Inks

    Inks Well-Known Member

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    A couple of items currently on sale on ebay for those of more Ivy League bent.
    [​IMG]
    A Pendleton virgin wool jacket
    [​IMG]
    A heavy tweed jacket originally from the student tailors of Princeton University
     
  9. Bob the Badger

    Bob the Badger Well-Known Member

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    They are trouser style, straight leg with 8 1/4 hem, sit on the waist.Two back pockets with flaps. They are ordinary 'knocking about in' trousers, nothing too special but compared with other cords in the shops they are quite good. They are not as good as my Brook Taverner cords, material wise. I like wearing cords with desert boots so long as I get the colour match right .I buy most of my stuff over the internet but I do like to try things on first, particularly trousers and shoes.
     
  10. roytonboy

    roytonboy Well-Known Member

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    Mr. Knightly - perhaps you recall the photograph of the lads outside the Twisted Wheel, Manchester from 1967? (see next page)
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2013
  11. roytonboy

    roytonboy Well-Known Member

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    Poor on quality but high on style, I'm sure you'll agree.

    I have just finished reading CENtral 1179, The story of Manchester's Twisted Wheel Club. In the 1960's the 'Wheel' was recognised as one of the most influential Mod clubs outside of London - many would claim THE most influential. As you can see, in 1967 very smart suits were worn, However, I will quote a couple of regular attendees from the book:

    Trevor Bridge speaking about 1969 - "We still dressed in our own style, but gone were the mohair suits ..... Ben Sherman's were still popular" (page196)

    Dave Meikle - "Like all industrial cities in winter, Manchester had a cold , dank , murky feel to it, but I will always recall the special atmosphere in the city centre as the night life began - it truly was the place to be in 1970. ...............Ben Shermans and Levi's were the norm at the wheel and most people brought a change of clothing. Black driving gloves were prevalent too........." (page 184)

    There is photographic evidence to back up these statements in the book.

    So there you have it - suits worn in the Mod era, but not during the skinhead period.

    I certainly had no intention of trying to start a north versus south conflict - I was simply trying to highlight the difference between 'Mod' and 'Skinhead'. I believe I am one of the contributors on this forum who will always acknowledge there were differences dictated by time and location.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2013
  12. Pressure_Drop

    Pressure_Drop Well-Known Member

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    This is quite a game changer, as Cerneabbas says Levi two tone Sta-prest were de rigueur in Bristol, everyone and I mean everyone wore them. Austins was the store for us, they sold shed loads of them, can't believe for one moment they weren't sold in the rest of the country. Were Austins shops countrywide? But no, never saw or heard of two tone jackets but pretty certain there were Harrington style ones (as well as Prince of Wales check).

    So, we had something over the London dandies did we? :D
     
  13. Little Queenie

    Little Queenie Well-Known Member

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    You forget, I know you!
     
  14. Little Queenie

    Little Queenie Well-Known Member

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    That's not quite precise enough I'm afraid! Are you defining a Skinhead haircut as a machine-cut crop, too short to be influenced by a comb?
     
  15. Little Queenie

    Little Queenie Well-Known Member

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    I agree the girl is lovely, but those pictures...... I'll comment on them when I've picked myself up off the floor and overcome my hilarity.
     
  16. Gsvs5

    Gsvs5 Well-Known Member

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    Are you meaning at the Wheel in particular or generally,because I would disagree on both if that's the case.I never went to The Wheel,but personally saw and knew know quite a few who did.I've mentioned it on here before about groups of well known lads being dressed up in suits in the Market Sq in the afternoon before jumping on the train to Manchester for the night.I know you are too astute to make such a sweeping comment as conclusive on the quotes of a couple of lads in a book.I had my first MTM suit done during this period.
    Apart from that ,I was not in the minority by any means and my local (Top Of The World ) gave us a weekly reason to sport a suit.
    IMO There's too much evidence to the contrary roytonboy
     
  17. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Well-Known Member

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    I will be interested in your comments on those pictures as I will be interested in roytonboys or elwoods comments.
    I only had one experience of seeing Northern skinheads in 1970,at the Swindon v Leeds fa cup match...I remember white plimsolls ( to get into the ground ) heavy boots ( maybe steel toe caps put on inside ground ),jeans with turn ups,navy blue jacket ( whats now called a monkey jacket ) with striped cuffs and around collar,or donkey jacket ( it was cold )and white/gold /blue scarf.
     
  18. Little Queenie

    Little Queenie Well-Known Member

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    OK, where to start? Firstly, this is not a critique of Loempiavreter's drawing skills as I can't draw for toffee!

    The understanding of Skinhead in the North is laughably primitive, but specifically there are a few oddities that jump out at me:

    The South:

    The lad with the salmon-coloured hair and runcible spoon for a hand: his trousers are too long and his sheepskin appears to be lacking a few buttons and, I don't know about everyone else, but every sheepskin I've ever owned always curls outwards to display the lining when unfastened.

    The lad at the front: he can't afford decent Sta-Prest - button fastener, instead of clip. I think his mam's shrunk his cardy in the wash.

    Their boots are too clean......

    The North:

    The lad on the left has fallen through a gap in the space-time continuum and come out all mixed-up. Is that meant to be a Sunderland scarf? If so, it doesn't fit era -wise with the rest of the gear. Looks a bit like a few looks that were worn in the North have been gathered together in an anachronistic jumble. Is he wearing crepe-soled boots??

    No idea what those strange words are they're saying.

    Their boots aren't clean enough (not to mention not shiny enough!)

    These lads are from the North, what about their look?

    [​IMG]
     
  19. con man

    con man Well-Known Member

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    same old, same old crap, aparantly everybody North of the Watford Gap is clueless and crap and talking of crap, WTF are them pictures about?
     
  20. Inks

    Inks Well-Known Member

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    It seems sheepskin coats and A-2 flight Jackets were also popular with other sub-cultures. These photos are from late '70s/early '80s Hip Hop guys from New York. I think the two gentlemen on the subway train are the polar opposite of the Parisian Neo-Nazis whose photos Monsieur Clouseau posted a while back. But, they seem to have the same taste in coat (minus the detachable faux-fur collar.)
    [​IMG]
    I've even recently had to attach my 'fur' collar. Blimey, it's got brass-monkeys of late.
    [​IMG]
    My A-2 is my basically my cold weather Harrington substitute.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2013

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