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Mod to Suedehead

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Spirit of 69, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Well-Known Member

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    My own recollection is that the Look was the most important thing back then and the provenance or authenticity of the stuff we wore was not really a concern in the way it is today among iGents.

    Later studies have attempted to attribute a certain knowledge to kids back in the day that, in truth, we didn't possess.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2016
    6 people like this.
  2. Clouseau

    Clouseau Well-Known Member

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    Speaking of Lee ('Denim, from cowboys to catwalks a visual history of the world's most legendary fabric' by G.Marsh and P.Trynka) :

    'The distinctive selvage edges of Lee jeans disappeared gradually during the 50s, early jeans boasted a double selvage, most 1950s jeans had selvage on merely one edge of the fabric; the selvage was completely gone by 1958.'

    …Until Lee launched a heritage collection to compete with LVC.

    Donkey Jacket, i've got several Lee Riders repros, with and without selvedge, one of my favorite (great fit and natural color fading) is a non selvedge japanese repro.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2016
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  3. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Well-Known Member

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    I wonder if selvedge today says just about as much about a pair of jeans as working cuff buttons do about a suit.

    I have a pair of H&M / L.O.G.G. dark indigo selvedge jeans that cost about £50. Quality is just ok...Cut is crap.

    My favourite jeans, that cost about double, are non-selvedge Nudie Straight Alf.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Donkey Jacket

    Donkey Jacket Well-Known Member

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    Thats makes a lot of sense to me, as long as you get the look right that is the most important bit, and truth be told there was a lot of variation from area to area. I still prefer selvedge though, just looks more correct for some reason to me now.
     
  5. Donkey Jacket

    Donkey Jacket Well-Known Member

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    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-LEE-1...OX-/321449188465?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 i am considering buying these what bela messaged me on fb, and are meant to be higher waisted then even 501s, the way lee designates there jeans confuses me to be honest, prob the only reason why i never buy em.
     
  6. covskin

    covskin Well-Known Member

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    ^ Lee are not so tied to numbers as Levi are - making it harder to pin things down over time - but I would be fairly confident that the Lee 101 *is* the current manifestation of the 'Lee Rider' that gets mentioned here. I don't think Lee have ever had the wide product range that Levi has. Over time there is sometimes a 'slim' and occasionally a 'bootcut' and that's about it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2016
  7. eddietradskin88

    eddietradskin88 New Member

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    Thank you very much.. Is there anyway you could provide pictures?? That was very helpful
     
  8. Donkey Jacket

    Donkey Jacket Well-Known Member

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    That helps, thanks, lee 101s are the ones i will go for, i will prob get the ones i posted, and just turn them up+plus iron.
     
  9. Bela Kun

    Bela Kun Well-Known Member

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    Not to rain on your parade, mate - but I swear several hundred pages back an original (BrownieCJ?) told us that sewing in turn-ups had primarily been about "showing off the selvedge".

    Anyway, if it turns out that you're right I'll get turn-ups sewn into that pair of non-selvedge 501s from ebay I've got lying around here - and defeat critics with my newly acquired knowledge (internal turn-ups was the original plan).
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2016
  10. Clouseau

    Clouseau Well-Known Member

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    Maybe Covskin was referring to the 80s, where, at least here, we didn't mind about selvage ?
    Not the case of English lads i heard of, who were already chasin' the vintage Levi early 80s, but they were the exception i guess.

    Now if you wear your jeans with turn ups, selvage are a must. (Not my case for a long time, that is why i don't mind about selvage)
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2016
  11. Donkey Jacket

    Donkey Jacket Well-Known Member

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    I think wearing lee and wranglers without selvedge would be more acceptable then Levis if you are trying to recreate the original ''look'', seeing as Levis were selvedge back then.
     
  12. covskin

    covskin Well-Known Member

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    ^^ good morning! Think of it like this. Before the mid-80s selvedge was just how Levis came, no choice in the matter, so selvedge is saying nothing that the tab and pocket stitching aren't already saying. Brownie CJ or whoever it was is not 'wrong', they are just not as 'correct' as you might (now) think they are (now that you have absorbed several decades worth of product differentiation by selvedge)

    Summary: selvedge means something different now
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2016
    3 people like this.
  13. roytonboy

    roytonboy Well-Known Member

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    As I mentioned earlier, there is an interesting discussion on the subject of 'Suedehead' for a few pages from page 1238 - if it's a style that interests you it's worth a read. Clouseau posted some photos on page 1244. - as you can see, there is a mix of hair lengths and items of clothing showing that skinhead to suedehead was a gradual transition.To me, the shorter hairstyles in the first photo is what I think of as 'Suedehead', by the second, a fewer number have that shorter style but the clothes are exactly what we were wearing for a night out mid - late 1971. I have tried to illustrate the transition from skinheads right through to mid-70's Boot Boy on page 1245. The article 'Meet The Crombie Boys' is also in there somewhere.

    As ever, just remember it is all semantics - what I refer to as 'Suedehead' others will think of as 'late skinhead', others still would call the style 'Smoothie'. Timescales will vary from region to region and the look (like skinhead) was also slightly different in different areas.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2016
  14. Baxter

    Baxter Member

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    Blighty Beat in Coventry are having a 50% sale to reduce stock. Loads of decent clothes in there and all half price.

    From their Facebook page

    We are having to reduce our stock to make room for our refit in September, we are having a massive 50% Off everything (excluding Ruby Riot's Clothing), this includes shoes, records, books, the works. Labels include Art Gallery, Brutus, Gabicci, Merc and lots more... Sale starts Saturday 2nd July, get down and bag a bargain or two.
    Please share this post with as many people as you can!

    https://www.facebook.com/blightybeatleamington/?fref=ts
    Unit 6, Fargo Village, Far Gosford Street
    Coventry


    Think the sale is on for a month.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Bela Kun

    Bela Kun Well-Known Member

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    That still leaves us with the question: what were turnups mainly for?

    1) to show off the selvedge. Unlikely if selvedge 'didn't matter'. However, here's the relevant quote from Lasttye (not BrownieCJ) from p. 739: "I always thought we turned our Levis up to show off the selvedge...The selvedge was and is to me a very important part of the skinhead look...that todays skinheads seemed to have lost".

    2) just to make sure your strides don't slouch all over your boots - something I remember MoM saying

    3) to show off your boots properly, which is the most common assumption.

    From my own point of view, I do it mainly for reason 3 and simply because turnups are part of the look.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  16. Bela Kun

    Bela Kun Well-Known Member

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    That would have been my gut instinct, too - hence I was planning to get internal turnups for my non-selvedge 501. Problem being, I wanted this pair for the summer, to be worn mainly with 3 eye DM smooths... and something about the DM smooths & internal turnup combination strikes me as not looking quite right.

    Decisions, decisions.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Donkey Jacket

    Donkey Jacket Well-Known Member

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    Wouldnt it be correct to say lee and wranglers were more common in the north?, at least i think i can remember someone saying that i think, and that levis were more common in london etc.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. covskin

    covskin Well-Known Member

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    Turnups or hemmed is just the ebb and flow of fashion. Hemmed only looks odd because turnups have been seen everywhere for a few years now. Twenty years ago and you would be thinking the opposite. I think there is something strikingly blank, plain and classically skinhead/suedehead about hemmed jeans with smooth dm shoes.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2016
    2 people like this.
  19. covskin

    covskin Well-Known Member

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    That seems to be the general view.
     
  20. Donkey Jacket

    Donkey Jacket Well-Known Member

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    Guess i better stock up then lol, being a northerner myself. I guess it was one of the reasons northerners were viewed as scruffy in a way, not as much oppurtunity to get things like in london etc.
     

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