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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by ruzzi, Mar 30, 2006.

  1. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,455
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    Nov 9, 2010
    Location:
    RWC, CA
    Are you really 140lbs at 6'2" or did you mean 240? It's the slightest bit short in body and sleeve length as you said, but for $150 I'd be totally happy with that. Looks good to me.
     
  2. DrYou

    DrYou Member

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    7
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    Dec 16, 2016
    Lol, yeah, 100 pounds off, corrected. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2016
  3. Roygbivuxg

    Roygbivuxg Well-Known Member

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    525
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    Aug 2, 2010
    I think the shoulders are acceptable but the overall length is a few inches short. Left sleeve looks OK but right sleeve appears way short??
     
  4. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

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    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    I agree with Roybivuxg above. Shoulders look fine. Sleeves and body are too short. The sleeves should come 1/2 way between the wrists and the webbing st the first joint of the thumb. The torso length should just cover the butt.
     
  5. DrYou

    DrYou Member

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    7
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    Dec 16, 2016
    Thanks for the input. Leaning towards a return at this point. The goal of this purchase was to get a close to perfect as possible and have a coat that I'll have for a long time. I chatted with LL Bean about their new model Peacoat which is no longer made by Sterlingwear. The new model is %100 wool with Thinsulate lining which I've heard good things about. She also said the new model is "slightly fitted, but you will still be able to wear a mid weight layer under the item and you would still order a size Large". I can also order it in a Tall size which will add 1 inch to the sleeve and 2 inch to the torso. That would either be spot on or still maybe a tad short I think, but better. Can only get it in Dark Navy but that's okay. I would be able to re-use my discounts to bring the new model down to $198, still not bad. They said the shoulders aren't "padded" on either model, just "structured". From the model pics though the shoulders seem less drastic on the new model.

    LINK to the new model

    Also looking at the Schott's, more expensive, better sizing options, more comfortable with LL Bean support in terms of ease of returns etc even though I've not seen negative things about Schott service.
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2016
  6. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

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    701
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    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    See if LL Bean can give you an accurate p2p measurement. That is a better indication of how the coat will fit rather than relying on the stated chest size, which varies between manufacturers.

    If you haven't already done so, read my guide linked below. Toward the end there is section on fit and how to minimize sizing problems when ordering online.

    http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2016
  7. hoodog

    hoodog Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,444
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Anyone tried the Private White Vc peacoat? Any thoughts?

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. psychodealer

    psychodealer Well-Known Member

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    100
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    Mar 12, 2016
    INterested here too! Their outwear were pretty good in my experience. Don't know much about their pea coats though.
     
  9. bl@ster

    bl@ster Well-Known Member

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    2,050
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    Jan 4, 2011
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    

    I have a very similar build to you. Same height, similar weight, and I snagged the LL Bean Pea Coat made by Sterlingwear in size Large Tall and it fits perfectly. So I think that would have been your best bet. Just saw that the new Bean peacoat is sold out in Large Tall so hopefully you snagged it before this happened!

    If not, do you have any Army / Navy surplus stores around you? I went to a local one here in Seattle and they had a huge supply of Schott pea coats and in tall sizes.

    I have Sterlingwear and Schott peacoats (as well as J Crew) and you really can't go wrong with these if you're not going for a vintage one.
     
  10. DrYou

    DrYou Member

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    7
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    Dec 16, 2016
    I ended up sending back the first coat from L.L. Bean coat, just got the new one today (Large Tall). Updated pics below, feels good, I think it fits well, at some angles and poses it seems to highlight my gut, which I don't think is terrible but I'm working on it. Quality seems nice, not as nice to me as the Sterlingwear. The Sterlingwear didn't feel "wooly", this one does. I do like the shoulders and lapel on the new coat better, no padding on the shoulders and lapel is smaller. Also thought the inside of the Sterlingwear was higher quality, just felt more detailed. This one isn't bad, but its just a think lining, nothing special. The new coats also feels much lighter, not as stiff as the Sterlingwear. Some may prefer this and maybe intially I do to, but the weight and stiffness of the Sterlingwear while maybe not as comfortable did feel higher quality. Also like that the Sterlingwear was made in the USA. Being from L.L. Bean I'm not worried about getting my money's worth cause I won't hesitate to send it back years later if I think they compromised quality, they are asking $270 for it so it would feel fair.


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    Last edited: Dec 23, 2016
  11. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

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    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    Looks like an acceptable fit this time. The left sleeve appears to be longer than the right. I am presuming they are the same length? The right sleeve is a perfect length. I would rather have the sleeves a little long rather that a little short.
     
  12. DrYou

    DrYou Member

    Messages:
    7
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    Dec 16, 2016
    How does everyone deal with hair and lint on the dark wool peacoat's? It's not too bad yet but I'm being very conscious of where I place the coat and what it touches. Figured with all the knowledge here someone could tell me or give me the definitive strategy. Thanks!
     
  13. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    701
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    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
  14. DrYou

    DrYou Member

    Messages:
    7
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    Dec 16, 2016
    Thanks I'll grab one. Had been looking at those but didn't know if they worked since the coat has a rougher surface.
     
  15. DrYou

    DrYou Member

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    Dec 16, 2016
    Quick video I made of my L.L. Bean Peacoat in case anyone's looking for more info in this thread for the future. Linked back to this thread in the video description.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. scrwl

    scrwl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    107
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    Feb 1, 2014
    Location:
    Tampere, Finland
    Hi! I'm popping in from the footwear related threads to ask some dumb questions.
    I have this vintage USN Pea coat and the fit isn't exactly optimal. It has a bit squareish cut and the sleeves are quite wide. Apart from that the fit is quite good and snug on the chest but the shoulders are too wide and it bothers me a bit.
    How much I should worry based on this crappy fit pic?

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

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    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    I think the ooat is too big on you. It looks a little long in the body and you aren't filling out the shoulders. That may be why you are getting the wing effect on top of the shoulders. But your question is how much should you worry about it? I wouldn't worry about it all. Being in Finland you will need a sweater under the coat. If you have enough room in the chest for one, that will help fill out the shoulders, plus it will keep you warmer in the frozen northland.
     
  18. BigTree

    BigTree New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Jan 17, 2017
    Peacoat, I've been reading your Fedora Lounge article for peacoat dating over and over again. You are a champ in providing useful information, I'm sure many are indebted to your efforts. I am hoping you could help me out as well.

    I recently went hunting for a vintage peacoat and bought a kersey wool 40R with the tan corduroy pockets from 1967, as indicated from the clues on the tag. I find it fits fine in the shoulders, and can hug myself with the arms starting to bind only when I near full bear hug. However, I think the waist is too large. I am 5'11", 40.5" chest, 30" waist, 175 lbs. The pictures below are from before I had a tailor take out the sleeves another 1.75", so the sleeves are longer now.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I just came across a 1966 38R on ebay that lists the measurements: Sleeves 26", Chest 21.5", waist 21", length 35".
    I measured mine in the way you suggested and found: sleeves: 26", chest 22.25", waist 21.75". Based just on the chest p2p measurement, it seems like my coat should be a 42 based on your double minus 2 rule.
    Would you advise to get the 38R or stick with the 40R?
    I wore the 40R in Colorado (20 degrees F) this past weekend with a long sleeve shirt and no sweater. I felt nice and warm but slightly bulky and felt some drafts from below. My concern for sizing down to the 38R is that the lengthened sleeves on the 40R still ride up 3 inches below my wrists when my hands are on the steering wheel, and I worry if the hug test will become even more restrictive. If you thought I should stick with the 40R, have you ever heard any success stories of getting the waist taken in by a tailor?
    Ideally I would like to wear the coat without an additional sweater underneath as it is plenty warm already. I'm looking for a fit closer to the legendary JanSolo fit, but I want to be functional and mobile. Is it ever possible to have the sleeves be a decent length both when standing and when driving? I'd imagine this would need higher armholes.
    Oh, and as a side question: do you know what year the black corduroy-lined pockets appeared? I've yet to stumble upon them on ebay.
     
  19. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    701
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    First of all the coat pictured is a little too large for you, and the length is about 2" too long, The hem should be just below the buttocks. From the p2p you provided, it is a size 42 and not a size 40. A true size 40 from the 60s will measure right at 21.25".

    The size 38 you are contemplating will fit more like a size 40. A true size 38 from the 60s will have a p2p of right at 20.25". It is important to ask sellers to measure the p2p the way I describe in my article. This eliminates most of the error inherent in the measuring process. Ask the seller to be accurate to 1/4" of an inch.

    With your chest size, a true size 40 will allow you to wear a sweater underneath. A true size 38 will fit snugly and not allow any layering. When we start sizing down, sleeve length can be problematic. It is essential to obtain an accurate measurement of the sleeve.

    With the peacoat you have now, you know the proper length of the sleeves for you. Caution as to the sleeve length. There are three ways to measure. Underneath the sleeve from the shoulder seam at the armpit to the cuff. From the seam to the cuff with the tape hanging straight down. The third way is to measure from the shoulder seam along the curve of the elbow down to the cuff. You really need to know how the seller has measured.

    I haven't had a problem with the sleeves riding up while driving. If they fit properly while standing, they should also fit while driving. I like the cuff to fall 1/2 way from the wrist joint to the second joint of the thumb where the webbing is.

    I will tell JanSolo you like the fit of his coat. Not only does he have a good fit with his peacoat, he is a good guy. As some know he is German. He speaks English with a slight British accent. No hint of German in his speech.

    BTW, welcome to the Forum. PC,
     
  20. BigTree

    BigTree New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2017
    Thank you for your advice.
    The particular 38R I was looking at got sold in the meantime, but I found another 38R (with the green corduroy pockets!) and jumped on it. I assume from your article that the green corduroy means it is a 1966. I gave the seller your instructions for measuring, and oddly enough she reported the p2p as 22"! Other measurements: waist 21", sleeves 26.5", length 30.25", and yoke (shoulder seam to shoulder seam across back) 19". These measurements seem like an amalgamation of a 38R, 40S, and 42R. The 22" p2p makes me a bit nervous, but the rest of the measurements seem right for what I want (tighter waist, shorter length, and long sleeves). I'll post a picture when it arrives. If you or Jan give it your seal of approval, I feel I can rest easy.
    Any clue as to what years the black corduroy pockets appeared? In my search, I also found one seller who reported blue corduroy lined pockets. That was new to me, as I didn't see that listed in your article. I messaged the seller and asked if it's possible that the blue is a result of being faded from the black or green variants. Still waiting on a response. Here is the listing (is it within the rules to post listings in this forum?):


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/182420652562?ul_noapp=true
     

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