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MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by ruzzi, Mar 30, 2006.

  1. bullet magnet

    bullet magnet New Member

    Messages:
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    Feb 26, 2015
    So what do you guys think about it now?
     
  2. Wings

    Wings New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Mar 15, 2015
    Hi,

    First, let me thank one and all in this forum for sharing the wealth of information.

    I have a few peacoats but none were military issued. Recently I was able to purchased one that was purported to be from the late 40's or early 50's. Is this really that old?
    The label pic is attached.

    [​IMG]

    Whatever it is, I am very happy that I was able to acquire this as the wool is so smooth and different from my other coats. And the condition is excellent.

    Thanks.
     
  3. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    701
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    That is a beautiful, probably unworn, 1949 peacoat. I give it that date because of the style of the tag and the N140 prefix. I have one just like it, and it is a confirmed 1949 issue coat. That year has the best Kersey of all the years I have had. Congratulations. Every now and then even blind root hogs find an acorn. You did well.

    See my link for dating these coats below, and I believe, also in my signature line.

    And, BTW, welcome to the Forum.

    http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35824-PEACOAT-DATING

    EDIT NOTE: I probably should have mentioned that if your other peacoats aren't military, then they don't have the Kersey wool shell. That would make a big difference in the quality of the wool in your coat. Within the years the Kersey was the issue fabric (until 1980), the 1949 models have the best Kersey of those years. So you were lucky enough to get the vintage Kersey, as well as the best year the Kersey was issued. PC.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2015
  4. Wings

    Wings New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Mar 15, 2015
    Peacoat,

    Thanks! I must have read your dating guide 20 times before taking the plunge on that coat. Now I understand what you were saying about the best wool in the 1949 issue.

    Again, thank you for the great work you have been doing.

    Wings.
     
  5. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    701
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    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    

    You got a keeper. Congratulations. PC.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015
  6. Jhnkago

    Jhnkago Member

    Messages:
    22
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    Mar 13, 2011
    I'm a size 36 in Sterlingwear. 34 is a bit too tight and 38 is too big.

    I'm thinking about trying on the Schott Boys size DU740B because I am 5'6" and want shorter fitting coat. Does anyone know which size would fit me best and is it worth trying?
     
  7. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,117
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    Dec 10, 2008
    

    http://www.rakuten.ne.jp/gold/jalana/schott/740size.html

    + measurements: http://item.rakuten.co.jp/jalana/schott740b-nv/

    Also try the SW Classic. It is significantly shorter (and tighter) than the SW Authentic. The size chart on the SW website is only for the Authentic cuts... Classic fits way different.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  8. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    701
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    

    I have never had one, but have heard the Schott fits like a box.

    I agree with Spaghetti that the SterlingWear would be a better choice for a trimmer fit.
     
    2 people like this.
  9. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,117
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    Dec 10, 2008
    FWIW Jhnkago, I had a similar problem to yours (SW Authentics too long and too wide in the shoulder) and considered getting a Boys' Schott but ended up getting a Buzz Rickson in 34, which fit short. You might want to check out the BR in 36.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015
  10. Jhnkago

    Jhnkago Member

    Messages:
    22
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    Mar 13, 2011
    


    Thank you for the info. I've decided against going with the boys size Schotts.

    The Sterlingwear I tried on was at an army surplus store. I'm guessing it was the SW Classic because it was extremely thick and heavy.

    The length was slightly better for the 34 than that of the 36, but I had no complaints in regards to the length. Length was somewhat perfect. I'm thinking I can probably even go with a size Short over Regular if it became an issue for the size 36. But arms and shoulder movements were too tight on the 34, size 36 felt just right, had no complaints about shoulders either.

    What I didn't like about the SW was the collar popped was gigantic, and it's too thick & heavy. I'm in California so would probably need a 24 oz max. The gigantic popped collar is kind of a turn off too. But the boys size feels unnaturally small from those Schott pictures.

    I'm thinking SW is a good match for me after your consideration, probably the navigator? The big turn off though is I'm not really fond of the lapels on the Navigator. They look like giant circles on the model, reminds me of a sunflower. Does it look different in person? This is honestly the only thing turning me away from it.

    I felt the lapels on the SW I tried at the surplus store was normal/non-round, but the coat was just too thick.

    I have tried on the Schott DU 704I as reference. The lapels look fantastic on the Schott. It's a great coat, just has several of its own problems -- arm holes are far too low, shoulders bunch up on me b/c of the low arm holes, the hand warmers pop/curve forward out due to the way it's designed. When I compare the SW shoulders that I tried on to the Schott's DU 704I, the SW felt normal and the Schott felt awkwardly poorly designed.

    I'm thinking about possibly going with the Schott DU751 to solve the hand warmer/arm hole problems in Navy. The only problem is, these coats don't come in # sizes, but S/M/L too, which doesn't have the most precise fit.

    I also want a black coat. SW would fit this bill, but I'm trying to address the lapel look issue.


    That's very good info. Looks like I'm going to stay away from the DU740. I am considering the DU751 for its slim fit, would this be a good idea to get over the SW for Navy? I do like the look of the Schott, but quality and fit is a concern.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  11. Peacoat

    Peacoat Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    701
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    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    Jhnkago: I'm not that familiar with the Schott products, so I can't give advice there. Didn't even know they had a 751 that was slimmer fitting than the 740.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  12. Jhnkago

    Jhnkago Member

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    Are Buzz Rickson discontinued? I can't seem to find it sold anywhere.
     
  13. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 10, 2008
    

    They'll be restocked in September. Self Edge has a 36 in stock right now: http://www.selfedge.com/jackets-vests?product_id=361

    But look into History Preservation Association. They sell them for $250 less.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Jhnkago

    Jhnkago Member

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    Mar 13, 2011
    Oh great to know. Are these 32oz coats though? I'm concerned that might be too thick for the weather here.
     
  15. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 10, 2008
    

    36 oz. Where do you live, CA? In that case go with the 24 oz SW or something. Maybe try the Billy Reid Bond peacoat too. They fit really short and I think they're pretty thin.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  16. Jhnkago

    Jhnkago Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 13, 2011
    

    I've looked into the Billy Reid bond but too much deviation.

    Bay Area. Sometimes nights and mornings can get cold, but never below 0 cold.

    What do you think about Fidelity Gerald & Stewart pea coats?
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  17. Jhnkago

    Jhnkago Member

    Messages:
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    I'm reporting back after weeks of non stop peacoat shopping, researching. Drove to multiple stores, went to San Francisco, tried on many different brands.

    I will expand on my findings and post several fit pics soon of some brands. But just want to say thank you Spaghettimatt for the Buzz Rickson recommendation!! I'm very glad This is one of the few I tested. More on this soon.
     
  18. mjstamos1

    mjstamos1 Active Member

    Messages:
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    May 4, 2015
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    I'm in the bay too and it's tough to find weather for a thicker wool Peacoat. I have a cotton Fidelity on the way that is lighter so I am hoping I get more chances to wear it here in Cali. I also have one from Orvis that is nice and light that is great for the mild weather here and good for layering up for colder climates. My thicker wool one I only really only wear when I go to the east coast in Winter and it is just what the Dr. ordered, so warm yet breathes bit.
     
  19. mjstamos1

    mjstamos1 Active Member

    Messages:
    35
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    May 4, 2015
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
  20. tjyoung

    tjyoung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    171
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    Feb 18, 2013
    Digging this post out of the grave...

    @bigsink , if you're still around, how tall are you? I'm looking to buy this peacoat on ebay, and am wondering on length.

    Thanks in advance.
     

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