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Meermin Mallorca Shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by asturiano, Dec 5, 2011.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

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    I'm a slow learner [​IMG], but very pleased with the Saphir cordovan cream polish.
     
  2. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Well-Known Member

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    I'm in the UK so I pay the VAT but no duty. My Norvegesse cost about $500 delivered but a pair of cordovan indys I ordered then cancelled were gonna sting me over $800 and that was with free shipping! Ach who needs shell anyway?!
     
  3. mymil

    mymil Well-Known Member

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    I personally don't like the "hard" shine of the cordovan cream. I think it detracts from the shell's natural luster, which is part of what it makes it special. YMMV
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2012
  4. MarioImpemba

    MarioImpemba Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to repeat myself here ^.

    If it's dry, then condition it. No need for botique products (Saphir); honest leather cream or conditioner from a local B&M will be more than adequate. Then for a shine, hit it with Kiwi. I bet I could get those puppies runnin' with some elbow grease.


    Depends on who finished the shoes. Alden shoes are finished to a much glossier "luster" that is easily maintained. Allen Edmonds shell is devoid of luster in my experience with Leeds and Wolverine 721 LTD's. Both Horween, obviously, but finished differently. Again, nothing some Kiwi can't remedy...


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2012
  5. bespoken4me

    bespoken4me Well-Known Member

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    That is the self evident answer. No one had ever done shell before, nor after Arnold Horween- dating back to the 30's. Talk about a natural monoploly, and one without barrier to competition. The owner of Vogel Bootmakers in NYC, arguably the finest dressage and equestrian bootmaker ( and great customs shoes for that matter at great prices) once said that Horween is purely artisinal and proprietary.
    To understand their methods of tanning, use of vegetables oils and tallows in finishing their hides, is impossible. You would have to be an industial spy, or mole to really 'get" the process. I've been to the plant, You Tube has the video tour of same, and it really is all about some " Colonel Sanders" recipe. Machines and shop floor are ancient, and they have no desire to expand. That said, the Argentinian makers are trying similar but not exact methods and product that are unique to Horween. They will find their own way but likely never going to be the same- and they are not new to this either. The shell in Meermins should simply be looked at as something slightly different. I have seen up close as my friend owns a few pair and he actually prefers as it is lighter, more pliant. The shoes do not, however, leech out the wax and oils over time as Horween does.
     
  6. bespoken4me

    bespoken4me Well-Known Member

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    monopoly- too lazy a writer and sure there are more
     
  7. bespoken4me

    bespoken4me Well-Known Member

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    custom shoes. i give up
     
  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

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    Mario: what about the turpentine in polish products made for calfskin? My understanding is that this expands the pores of the shell and causes it to lose some of the impermeable magic that is shell. The Saphir cordovan cream has a neatsfoot oil base for this reason.
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2012
  9. bespoken4me

    bespoken4me Well-Known Member

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    kn
    I know you directed at Mario, so with apology, I have to jump in and agree with your concern. I t is an absolute no no , to use those creams and polishes- it will dry the leather and standard waxes will cover and seal the pores. ( An occasional wax won't kill it though) I have 12 pair of shells ranging from Alde, AE, C&J, to vintage Florsheim. AE has a specific cordovan cream, and I have used and don't like and goes against the orthodoxy that Alden recommends as well as Horween itself. Anything with turpentine will dry and destroy the inherent moisture in the shell and at some point you won't be able to revive. The video from one of SF's sponsor retailers, filmed at the famous shoe shine stand in San Fran, is illustrative of the 3-4 step polishing method. It too is on You tube. I have a pair of AE Mora's in shell, that didn't feel right from the beginning. After a while I started waxing them, just to get an immediate effect. Over time, they started bubbling- very minute pebble effect. The pores had been filled with product and the oils were trapped. The only fricking time I didn't follow the standard Saphyr polishing. 90% of the time, you should only use a warm wet towel, after the horeshair, and buff it out. Any further maintenance is to be used sparingly.
     
  10. SoGent

    SoGent Well-Known Member

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    thanks - that will come in handy when the Carmina MTO arrives.
     
  11. MarioImpemba

    MarioImpemba Well-Known Member

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    bespoken4me, I appreciate your first-hand experience.

    I have had no such ill-effects using Lexol or Kiwi on my shell shoes. I've even SnoSealed my shell boots, the heresy!

    Shell is still vegetable tanned leather, after-all, and can basically be treated in the same fashion.

    Nick V. made a post once to avoid Lexol, but made no follow-up comments of substantiation, that I know of.

    Regarding Lexol:


    http://www.styleforum.net/t/293860/how-to-avoid-shell-cordovan-related/0_100#post_5842828


    Regarding Kiwi:

    It's part of the Mac method...
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2012
  12. stevent

    stevent Well-Known Member

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    Yeah what are you doing? You shouldn't be applied so much


    C&J shell is so dry it's crazy, you'll probably be putting on reno before and after wears at the rate you are going with your Meermins
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2012
  13. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Well-Known Member

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    Nice shoes Quad. Well done. :)
     
  14. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Well-Known Member

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    thanks.

    wearing the brown ones today. They are a bit too long and I'm getting some minor heel slip. I'm guessing though when they start to soften up a bit, combined with a tongue pad, they will be fine. they do look killer with a dark navy suit.
     
  15. bespoken4me

    bespoken4me Well-Known Member

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    bespoken4me, I appreciate your first-hand experience.

    I have had no such ill-effects using Lexol or Kiwi on my shell shoes. I've even SnoSealed my shell boots, the heresy!

    Shell is still vegetable tanned leather, after-all, and can basically be treated in the same fashion.

    Nick V. made a post once to avoid Lexol, but made no follow-up comments of substantiation, that I know of.

    Regarding Lexol:



    http://www.styleforum.net/t/293860/how-to-avoid-shell-cordovan-related/0_100#post_5842828


    Regarding Kiwi:

    It's part of the Mac method...


    I have no disagreement with sparing use of kiwi, or Lexol for that matter. My warning is against polishes, creams, or conditioners that contain petroleum distillates, such as turpentine. Alden is, by far the largest purchaser of shell, and they adocate the treatment that Horween does. An occasional wax is fine, but shell is not simply a vegetable tanned leather, like calf. As a muscle, it is treated and fed oils much like bridle leather, ( so many other postings on this) and has inherent foaling wax that calf doesn't contain, so in that respect they are very different.. I would never treat shell the same as calf, but some areas of cleaning overlap, and as such aren't mutually exclusive. Lexol vs Saphir- sounds perfectly fine for cleaning, conditioning. The gist of the matter, is that shell should be minimally maintained. Water, deer bone ( which I don't use), and lots of horse hair, or rough brushing is the most important way to bring out weekly luster. Yes, it can dry if mistreated, but like calf- you never want to artificially enhance the look with over waxing- that will, over time assuredly kill it. So, no real disagreement. Thanks for the posting
     
  16. gyasih

    gyasih Well-Known Member

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    Have invoices gone out for the MTO?
     
  17. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Well-Known Member

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    Not yet, Pepe is away until Friday.Plus he is waiting for news on the lasted shoe trees from Springline.I'll update you guys on the shoe trees and when he is sending out the invoices.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. gyasih

    gyasih Well-Known Member

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  19. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Well-Known Member

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    Just heard back from Pepe.They will be ale to make lasted shoe trees just for this MTO. it will be produced by a Northampton last maker (Springline if i'm not mistaken).A minimum of 12 pairs of trees for each last is required though.

    It will be top quality, hinged lasted shoe trees.The price is EURO 75 (inclusive of VAT) and EURO 62 (VAT excluded).

    Drop me a PM or email if you guys want the lasted shoe trees :)
     
  20. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    pm dropped.

    email sent.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2012

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