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Making my own pants: A pictorial

Wiker

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Amazing work =)

Is 1,5m of fabric enough for one pair of pants?
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by jefferyd
Ha- thanks
wink.gif


You know, we used to be tested on blue pencil before admission to the IACDE. The good old days....
laugh.gif


and now?
 

philosophe

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Thanks for the lessons, Jeffreyd. Reading your posts and blog has really improved my eye for fit.
 

Slewfoot

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
The very best trouser makers take upwards of a year or more to make a single pair...and that's even before the sheers touch the fabric.

Payment, though, is due up front.


- B


Why you gotta give away my trade secrets?
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by inlandisland
Last night I spent some time starting to adapt my paper pattern according to the changes that JefferyD suggested... Not done yet, but I think I can see in my minds eye how it will help with the pulling at the hips and some of the twisting at the back. The point about working with a patterend fabric is something I've thought about - I just wanted to have one or two pairs done in a solid so that I would be more competent when working with a plaid or check and not completely waste my effort and fabric. Taking the pictures wasn't all that time consuming, so I'll probably do something similar to see where I can improve, but it will likely be quite a while before I have anything to show off again.
One suggestion. rather than separately marking each front and back panel, fold the cloth along the side edge and mark the front and back panels side by side, then cut the pieces out with the cloth doubled. Then you can learn to thread mark thru the two cloth layers. Both front and back panels will be exactly the same that way and you save time. All of your trimming pieces will be the same size as well. Your original pattern was good about 100 years ago. Jeffery's changes will give you a more modern up to date cut and fit. One more idea. Draft the pattern 1 1/2 to 2 inches larger than your actual seat measure. That is the allowance for ease around your hips. If your hips measure 40" with the tape measure snug around your seat, make the pattern to measure 41 1/2 or 42" less the seams. That will improve and relax the fit around your hips.
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
The very best trouser makers take upwards of a year or more to make a single pair...and that's even before the sheers touch the fabric.

Payment, though, is due up front.


- B


I've only dreamed of being that good. Not sure it is attainable at my age.
 

kraands

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Wow, very impressive! I would've have the patience for that...
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by Wiker
Amazing work =)

Is 1,5m of fabric enough for one pair of pants?


If you're slim enough to fit all the pieces on one width, yes.
 

inlandisland

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Originally Posted by Despos
One suggestion. rather than separately marking each front and back panel, fold the cloth along the side edge and mark the front and back panels side by side, then cut the pieces out with the cloth doubled. Then you can learn to thread mark thru the two cloth layers.
Both front and back panels will be exactly the same that way and you save time. All of your trimming pieces will be the same size as well.

Your original pattern was good about 100 years ago. Jeffery's changes will give you a more modern up to date cut and fit.

One more idea. Draft the pattern 1 1/2 to 2 inches larger than your actual seat measure. That is the allowance for ease around your hips. If your hips measure 40" with the tape measure snug around your seat, make the pattern to measure 41 1/2 or 42" less the seams. That will improve and relax the fit around your hips.


Thanks for weighing in here - the suggestion of folding over the cloth was one of the first ones I received at the C&T forum as well, and of course it makes sense. In terms of threadmarking, are there specific parts of the pattern along which the threadmarks should be placed? And, do they serve to keep the two layers of cloth in place while cutting, or is there some other purpose? I ask because I saw a video where threadmarks were used to mark the lengthwise grain on a piece of cloth for a coat, but I don't really understand why -- isn't the direction of the lengthwise grain obvious? In any case, what I've learned about threadmarking has just confused me, so if you can elaborate I'd be in your debt.

I also appreciate your last point - I didn't leave myself sufficient inlays to fix the tightness around the hips any better than it is - I would say "lesson learned" but that will depend on how the second pair turns out.
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
This thread has inspired me to make my own Roman aqueduct.

- B


What is your olive dispersion system? Catapult ?
 

patrickBOOTH

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
This thread has inspired me to make my own Roman aqueduct.

I am using slaves, though, so technically, not fatto a my mano.

I improve on the Romans in one important way: rather than water, the aqueduct will convey gin with a hint of vermouth from a giant pitcher down in to a glass. The glass is shaped like an upside volcano, a sly reference to Mount Vesuvius.

I've ordered the slaves to make the aqueduct from giant blocks of ice. They constantly complain about melting, which means that they are constantly whipped. You have apprentices, so I know that you are familiar with this disciplinary practice.

The angle from one side to the other is very shallow since I don't like any bubbles to get into the gin from turbulent travel.

It is hard to say what is more monumental: my acqueduct or any recent Style Forvm thread on pants.


- B


I don't appreciate your ruse! You know you are really using indentured servants and not slaves!
 

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