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Makin' Pants!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by inlandisland, Jul 24, 2011.

  1. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    Hello new version of the forum,

    Since some people enjoyed my last thread on the topic I thought I would post a little update...

    I've made 2 pairs of pants since my first thread on the topic... I didn't take as many construction pics as it would be very repetitive, but I have started to refine the process a bit... I still have a long way to go, but I think I'm improving.

    Here is the second pair I made, a vibrant green cotton pant. The fabric is quite a bit thicker than would be ideal for summer trousers, but it was cheap and mainly for learning purposes - although these pants certainly get comments when I where them out!

    In the first pics of the pattern, you can see how I altered the pattern according to the suggestion of JefferyD...
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    Here is how they turned out:
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    The next pair I made was a light weight, very breathable heringbone wool, very light in color...

    A mid-construction shot shows how I've started to use threadmarking or "tailors tacks" in the construction process...
    [​IMG]

    Here is an inside look at the constructed trousers...
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    Here are the first three handmade buttonholes I've attempted... all 3 are sloppy and the first one is an abomination, but it's on the inside closure where it will only ever be seen by me...
    [​IMG]
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    Here's how the pants fit. The only thing I really messed up on this pair (aside from the buttonholes) was the angle of the back pockets... a mistake I hope not to make again.

    [​IMG]
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    I hope that others get inspired to try it out as well. If you're looking for a good reference to start out with, I highly reccomend the new "Making Trousers for Men & Women" by David Paige Coffin as a place to begin. The book comes with a DVD that has lots of excellent video tutorials that will speed along your learning.

    Have a great day!
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011
    1 person likes this.
  2. KitAkira

    KitAkira Well-Known Member

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    That green fabric is amazing. Do want.
     
  3. Achillus

    Achillus Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. Green pants looks great.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011
  4. phoenixrecon

    phoenixrecon Well-Known Member

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    In some dude's court
    

    why so angry
     
  5. Achillus

    Achillus Well-Known Member

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  6. Viral

    Viral Well-Known Member

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    haha...........haters gonna hate!
     
  7. boo1234

    boo1234 Member

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    Love the green pants :)
     
  8. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2011
  9. MarcInDentonTx

    MarcInDentonTx Well-Known Member

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    Dayum! I believe it is awesome that you, obviously a young man, has taken enough interest, time and attention to a craft to do this.

    GOOD ON YA.


    :slayer:
     
  10. Vimsig

    Vimsig Member

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    Great inspiration! I'm thinking of doing this myself one day.
     
  11. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    Louis XIV: I am pretty tall and slim, I prefer a rise that's not too low, and my pattern still isn't perfected - the rise on this pair is longer than I want... compounded, that makes the rise on these a bit too high, an issue I'm working on with each new pair.

    Thanks for the comments. Lol at the angry backside comment... my wife's immediate response was also "Your but looks angry".
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011
  12. Saturdays

    Saturdays Well-Known Member

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    inlandisland, these are truly remarkable. Nice work!
     
  13. facet

    facet Well-Known Member

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    LOL.

    Great work inlandisland. Your posts are really interesting and fun to read; look forward to the next project.
     
  14. Digmenow

    Digmenow Well-Known Member

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    Great job! Even the angry pants are cool in a fun kind of way. When I read your threads, I think that I'd like to try it myself...then I come to my senses and go to the store cuz I KNOW I'm not owning THAT skill set!

    Can hardly wait for the next installment. I vote for a pair of cords. The wale matching ought to prove interesting.
     
  15. Shawl Lapel

    Shawl Lapel Well-Known Member

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    The craftsmanship on these is great, especially the rear pocket closure. Cool stuff!
     
  16. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

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    Quote:
    +1 You like 'em tight but you make amazing pants! stellar work my friend.
     
  17. Gdot

    Gdot Well-Known Member

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    Very cool!

    What I like about this thread is it shows a real appreciation for how a garmet is constructed. And in the long run understanding how things are put together is a very worthwhile thing for all of us.

    I'm sure you will adjust your 'angry pockets' in the next pair. In the meantime changing the buttons to a color that matches the fabric will probably eliminate the 'angry' effect.

    I thought the second pair was looking pretty good. Take a hard look at the zipper length, and front rise in the next pair. It seems to me that you have your waistline located correctly. But the area under the zipper/fly is not quite what it should be. I can't tell if you should use a slightly longer zipper next time or if you should simply shorten the front rise a bit. In any case a tweak is in order.

    Very impressive second effort!
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011
  18. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Oct 13, 2011
  19. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the feedback. I agree with you. For whatever reason I have found the rise and the fit through the hip area to be the hardest thing to get right at the pattern stage and I keep having to make changes once things have already been cut and partially constructed. Generally the feedback I get is that the finished product looks good, but I am aware of all these little (and big) things that need to be improved - of course it's still very useful when someone like yourself points out something like the above.


    Thanks - I'm hoping to try a pair of cords soon when I switch into a 'fall/winter' mindset. I hadn't even thought of wale matching - but I am going to try a pretty bold pattern for my next pair, so it will be good practice.


    Okay - that will be the day, but sure.
     
  20. Redwoood

    Redwoood Well-Known Member

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    Oh how much love these DIY threads :bounce2:
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2011

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