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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.

  1. elstinnett

    elstinnett Well-Known Member

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    I think we may have placed a nearly identical order. Great minds think alike!
     
  2. scrolls

    scrolls Well-Known Member

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    Must order a jacket along with the fit jacket.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Well-Known Member

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    So this raises an interesting question for me. I know that Luxire will let us specify certain measurements on shirts in .25" increments (sleeve length is one I think).

    It seems to me as if that's a margin of measurement that could easily be overwhelmed by variance in cutting and sewing (which is not to say that Luxire's cutters and tailors do anything other than their best, but that we have to allow for some variance) or by one fabric that may shrink a little more than others when washed.

    I mention this because among the various shirts I've ordered so far and that have the same measurements, I've definitely noticed some variation in the fit (mostly the one or the other ends up feeling a little too small/short, and that's likely because I have the measurements set to where there's little margin for the error I'm suggesting here). Nothing tragic, but it is noticeable in a few cases.

    Thoughts?
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2015
  4. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

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    I've recently come to the same realization after one of my early shirts shrunk to the point the yoke and sleeves are almost too small, while another oxford fabric shirt has had virtually no shrinkage. I decided I needed to find a middle road that would account for shrinkage but still look good enough if a particular fabric had little to no shrinkage. With this in mind, I added 0.25" back in my sleeve length and may add 0.25" into my back waist. Pretty sure I will not add to the yoke because I'd rather deal with too tight than too baggy in this area.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. variancelog

    variancelog Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, @scrolls!
     
  6. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Well-Known Member

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    And along these lines, if I'm experiencing sleeves that hang well with my arms at my side but pull a little too far back when I raise my arms to perpendicular, what should I try? Add .25" to the sleeve length? Give myself a little more room in the chest? Something else?
     
  7. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Well-Known Member

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    You can add to the sleeve length to see if that helps. You might want to also consider adjusting the sleeve angle to account for more freedom of movement. I have not tried the sleeve angle adjustment yet, but there was a discussion of it a few pages back.
     
  8. luxire

    luxire Well-Known Member

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    In our cutting and making, we have zero tolerance. We ship the shirts with accurate measurements. If anything is off during making, it is corrected / remade before being shipped.

    What we are unable to accurately account for is shrinkage. Even though we wash and dry the fabric before cutting, we do see that fabrics can shrink marginally. If the shrinkage is reported to be more than marginal, we add another wash cycle for the fabric.

    Also, some fabrics tend to feel different than the others. Due to fabric thickness, smoothness, weight and weave, even if the measurements are exactly the same, they can sometimes feel very different on the body.
     
    7 people like this.
  9. variancelog

    variancelog Well-Known Member

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    It is true that there are many variables in how clothes will fit. This is one of the reasons why it can be a perilous path trying to get your fit "dialed in". Each person needs to find their own balance and call it a day at some point. That's how I look at it anyway, as one who has obsessed over these points excessively (probably even for a styleforum member). I've changed my pattern so many times and each time it always seems like it could be better. My name is Variance and I am a shirtfitoholic.
     
  10. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I read that discussion with interest. I wonder if it might be a complex enough adjustment that it would have a high probability of leading to an unanticipated result.

    I'll probably try a shirt with a fractionally longer sleeve. Which gets back to my question about .25". I wonder if that will be enough to really make a difference.
     
  11. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Well-Known Member

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    Thank you. That's good to know that your policy is zero variance. That leads me to think I'll try adding a little to my sleeve length on my next order.

    Your other points about the inherent differences of different fabrics are well made and certainly make good sense.
     
  12. jko

    jko Well-Known Member

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  13. luxire

    luxire Well-Known Member

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  14. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Well-Known Member

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    @Luxire, can you do leather watch straps?
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. luxire

    luxire Well-Known Member

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    We certainly can.
     
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  16. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    Mine still haven't even been shipped : (
     
  17. Bowball

    Bowball Well-Known Member

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    Just a short post to say that I've been really impressed by how quickly and helpfully luxire have been responding to my emails. Really hope Justin's suggestions can sort out my trouser fit.

    On another note I've certainly noticed some shrinkage on my older Oxford shirts after a dozen trips through the drier.
     
  18. HughJ

    HughJ Well-Known Member

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    After going back and forth with Luxire, it was pointed out to me that they measure sleeve width differently than most MTM manufacturers - they measure at the armhole rather than across the bicep. I'm not sure how they then determine how to taper the arm toward the cuff, but in my case it resulted in a literally skin tight sleeve and the tightness across the back you describe. I have OTR shirts with sleeves that are too long/too short, but none of them exhibit this issue, so I think that sleeve width must play a role in the tightness. I will report back on how my next order goes (added .75" to sleeve width), but I think my sleeve length and yoke width are otherwise perfect, and I'm reluctant to add side pleats on a casual shirt.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2015
  19. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    Is you order using an exact shirt pattern from a previous order? Usually extensive shirt delays are due to the pattern creation/editing process. Otherwise maybe there is a fabric shortage on your selections, so just waiting on fabric?
     
  20. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    Changes to a previous order, but no the exact same. I ordered swatches too, but those should normally be easy
     

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