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Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.

  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Yes, you are correct. [​IMG]
     
  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, how do you spoiler images when quoting?
     
  3. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    The shirt I have is about 3.2cm in front...I think everything is making sense to me now (more or less), why tie gap and why not.

    BTW, that's the Wu Olive Shantung. Had to buy one after seeing you sport several of them!
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2014
  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    The one I'm wearing is the Olive rosette. The shantung is solid, if I remember correctly. Get into the Wu Tie Clan! [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  5. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, yes, the rosette is lovely, even nicer than the shantung. The carmel striped you've sported is good, but I succumbed and bought that too.
     
  6. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Nice! You won't regret, the ties are really really awesome!
     
  7. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    Why don't you like tie gap?
     
  8. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    I feel like the continuity of the collar is interrupted. :(
     
  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I feel like mine is a tad wimpy in front. Leaves too much of my neck exposed in front. But photo looks ok
     
  10. luxire

    luxire Well-Known Member

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    Certainly. Will be nice with the snaps and the Thermolite quilting. Do PM your fabric choice for deeply discounted pricing on first 5 orders.
     
  11. luxire

    luxire Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for sharing. Immensely pleased to know.
     
  12. luxire

    luxire Well-Known Member

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    The neckband height extends beyond the stitches. Method shown by @Betelgeuse is correct.

    We basically need to measure the height of the visible face of the piece of fabric.

    Neckband height and collar back height are 2 different measurements. We make the back of collar 0.25" to 0.5" taller than the neckband so that the neckband and the back of the tie remain hidden when worn.

    The ideal terms to use will be: "Neck-band height", "Front Neck-band height", "Collar back height", "collar points", "Tie-space" and "Collar-spread".
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2014
    2 people like this.
  13. Osiris2012

    Osiris2012 Well-Known Member

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    I admire peeps striving for that perfect fit and collar and expanding their knowledge of textile construction, but I half expect to come in here later and see CAD drawings of collars :p
     
  14. demizzle

    demizzle Well-Known Member

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    Modern Tailor currently makes my MTM shirts but I'm looking to try something new. I use shirt measurements for my MT shirts, but I noticed you guys don't use as many measurements as MT. The measurements I'm concerned about are the upper arm measurements (around the bicep) and the shoulder measurement across the front of the shirt. Are we able to specify these measurements for your shirts? I"m just concerned about the fit and would like to avoid making multiple shirts again just to get the sizing right. Thanks.
     
  15. DarkDestiny

    DarkDestiny Well-Known Member

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    You can specify as many or as few measurements as you would like in the note section. Luxire has a spot for bicep measurement. I can't logically grasp how often a shoulder front and shoulder back measurement would differ. I can only imagine it being useful for forward pitched shoulders. Still, the bottom line is that if you specify it, it will be followed if possible. If you have concerns about it, email them and they'll get it squared away for you.
     
  16. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    @Luxire, talking collars, what is the reason for the rear collar riding up, exposing approximately 1cm of the rear neck band underneath?
     
  17. luxire

    luxire Well-Known Member

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  18. luxire

    luxire Well-Known Member

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    2 people like this.
  19. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

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    I know, I’m OCD about collars! [​IMG]

    Seriously though, how a shirt looks depends in large part on the collar, and that in large part on how it sits on your neck. The google docs of order numbers is helpful, but it doesn’t tell me collar dimensions. If Beatlegeuse (FL) orders Clapyeron’s collar just because it looks good on Clapyeron (and it does), he’s not going to be happy since it will be higher than he would like. 70 bucks flushed down the toilet. (Betelgeuse on the other hand might like Clapyeron's collar, but it is similar to his last post).

    I’m fussy about my collar, so the diagrams are helpful. Others might not be so more power to them. If you care, then you need some subset of this info in ordering a shirt that fits you well.

    It would be good on the docs if people did include the following: back neck band height, front band height, point length, point spread, back collar height. Some of us would need to adjust these. Might a few people update? Anyway, my 2 cents.
     
  20. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Luxire, how do you measure the tie space? Or putting in the comment box "No tie space" will be sufficient?


    :lol:

    I think Clapey already did something similar for his collar.
     

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