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Longwings or Wingtips

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jmoody15, Nov 9, 2009.

  1. Guero

    Guero Well-Known Member

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    Houston, Texas
    +1. As a proponent and wearer of the sleeker C&J 348 last and Vass U-last, and assorted imitations thereof, I am definitely not oriented towards the clunky longwing but would find the world a less interesting place without it. And to add one more tidbit to a post above, not all wings, low or long, are brogues, unless you include austerity brogues.
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Wingtip derbies often look bad to me because the bottom edge of the brogued eyelet piece and the top edge of the wingtip imply intersecting, rather than parallel, lines. Longwing derbies don't have this problem: the bottom edge of the eyelet piece is always parallel to the the top edge of the longwing broguing.

    If I ever got non-longwing wingtips, I'd pick an oxford format. Even then I'd want the curved edges of the eyelet piece and wingtip to be harmonious.
     
  3. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Well-Known Member

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    Longwings represent classical Americana. Bring the chunk.

    Yes!

    If anything, I think longwing proponents, of which I am one, are often vocal specifically because of the widespread fondness here for sleek, modern shoes. There have been endless threads about G&G, EG's 888, C&J's 348, Vass U last, even Kiton's pointy toes and tacky patination ... The lowly longwing, in comparison, has only lately been getting some love.

    I like both sleek shoes and clunky shoes, depending. And it really is how you use them: A clunky fiery chestnut longwing can look great paired with a slim, light gray wool trou. They can look old-fashioned, but they can look modern, too. Thom Brown and the Duckie Brown/Florsheim collab come to mind.


    Fixed, can't believe you forgot 'fiery'!

    Wingtip derbies often look bad to me because the bottom edge of the brogued eyelet piece and the top edge of the wingtip imply intersecting, rather than parallel, lines. Longwing derbies don't have this problem: the bottom edge of the eyelet piece is always parallel to the the top edge of the longwing broguing.

    If I ever got non-longwing wingtips, I'd pick an oxford format. Even then I'd want the curved edges of the eyelet piece and wingtip to be harmonious.


    Huh? I have a pair of Tricker's Tetbury in Espresso pebble grain on the way, similar to these: http://item.rakuten.co.jp/eton/1408136/
     
  4. kev777

    kev777 Well-Known Member

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    Wingtip derbies often look bad to me because the bottom edge of the brogued eyelet piece and the top edge of the wingtip imply intersecting, rather than parallel, lines. Longwing derbies don't have this problem: the bottom edge of the eyelet piece is always parallel to the the top edge of the longwing broguing.

    If I ever got non-longwing wingtips, I'd pick an oxford format. Even then I'd want the curved edges of the eyelet piece and wingtip to be harmonious.


    Along with Wes i just thought "What????!!!" ............totally over my head that [​IMG]
     
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Huh? I have a pair of Tricker's Tetbury in Espresso pebble grain on the way, similar to these: http://item.rakuten.co.jp/eton/1408136/

    Along with Wes i just thought "What????!!!" ............totally over my head that [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. kev777

    kev777 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Ah now it all becomes clear !!
     
  7. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Well-Known Member

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  8. jmoody15

    jmoody15 Well-Known Member

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    The lowly longwing, in comparison, has only lately been getting some love.

    I guess that might explain it - I'm new around here

    I like both sleek shoes and clunky shoes, depending. And it really is how you use them: A clunky chestnut longwing can look great paired with a slim, light gray wool trou. They can look old-fashioned, but they can look modern, too. Thom Brown and the Duckie Brown/Florsheim collab come to mind.

    I guess that I'm with you - maybe "low wings" first, then longwings later for more casual use. But I'm not at that stage yet. About to buy a new pair, and wanted to see what the argument was for longwings. I'm looking for more of a dressy-casual type look in these shoes, so I'll stick with my original thought.

    You're argument is false. Sure, there are people here who like longwings. That does not connote general hatred of wingtips, one of the standard shoe styles, however. A careful review of the WAYWN now and Shoe Porn threads will display many more wingtips.

    Didn't mean to imply that I saw hatred for wingtips. Just saw a preference toward the longwings in the past month, and was curious. I guess it shows that I'm new, since I didn't think about the possibility of having both types of shoes. [​IMG]

    But I'll contend your assertion that my "argument" is false. It was a simple question, and I don't believe that a question can be false - only an answer. [​IMG]
     
  9. kev777

    kev777 Well-Known Member

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    ^ Aaaaaaaaaaah, gotcha Foo! And I made a mistake, my Tetbury are derbies (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Trickers-Facto...8182001r32540), not oxfords/bals like the ones I had linked.

    I'm sorry Wes but those Trickers eyelet pieces aren't parallel nor harmonious [​IMG]
     
  10. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Well-Known Member

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    I'm sorry Wes but those Trickers eyelet pieces aren't parallel nor harmonious [​IMG]

    Luckily, I'm not [​IMG]
     
  11. JayJay

    JayJay Well-Known Member

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    There's really more of a lw bent on AAAC - here, there's about 6 guys who like them, including me.
    Me, too.
     
  12. srivats

    srivats Well-Known Member

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    Longwings are an american classic . I like both wingtips and longwings, but given a choice I'd pick longwings over wingtips. It is no secret that I like gunboats and the longwing design (with a storm welt, double leather soles) goes well with my idea of a sturdy shoe. I probably have more longwings in my closet than any other design.

    Most people here think aldens are clunky, but the alden longwing #975 is a very pleasing design.
     

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