1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Leather Quality and Properties

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by VegTan, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    These are the boots I mentioned up thread. I bought them in 1994. I just put another coat of Nikwax on them, which is why the laces are out.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Munky

    Munky Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,600
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2013
    Location:
    Wales, UK
    Is the whole of an animal made use of before their skin is made into leather? Do we eat the steak as well as harvest the leather?
     
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    33,325
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Leather is a by-product of the meat industry. Tanneries don't receive carcasses of whole animals, just the skins.
     
  4. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,044
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2010
    Location:
    England
    

    In the case of farm animals, yes. Leather is a byproduct of the meat industry for things like cow, pig etc so from an ethical point of view a calf didnt die to make your wallet, it died to make your burger or stake and the wallet is a nice bonus. Exotics may be different though

    Charlie
     
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    33,325
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Allegedly in the past animals were raised for their hides, which is why older, vintage shoes and such were such better quality and have lasted.
     
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,205
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    That's not to say the meat wasn't eaten...it was...simply that the breeds were selected and raised for their hides. Some beef are dairy, but animals raised primarily for for meat still give milk.
     
  7. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    Got my pair of George Cleverley Suede Loafers, quite enjoying them.

    however, when the shoe trees are inside the shoe, and when I am wearing it, the soft unlined suede calf around the vamp area warps and move inwards, as shown in the photo below, made obvious by the lighter apron line.

    I guess my shoe isn't the same as the last it is designed on, anyone else experienced this with suede shoes?

    [​IMG]
     
  8. CalzolaiFeF

    CalzolaiFeF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    83
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2014
    Location:
    Rome, Italy
    It seems that the shoe tree, in the internal forepart is too large for the shoe, hence the warping.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Chowkin

    Chowkin Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    553
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
    Location:
    Hong Kong
    @wurger - maybe you need to take out the added insoles when you tree your shoes
     
  10. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    it's there when I wear the shoes, with or without the insoles, I reckon it's just the soft quality of the suede.
     
  11. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney

    actually, you are right, I tried a smaller split toe tree, better, thanks! But the warp will remain when my feet is inside.
     
  12. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    

    Thanks to coffeedudeguy! Interesting video

    [VIDEO]www.youtube.com/embed/a11wlngpuSY[/VIDEO]
     
  13. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    I can actual imagine DW do a similar video about shoe making :satisfied:
     
  14. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,205
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    :nodding:
    I've done a number over the years. But I don't know how to upload video on this software. I don't do YouTube or Facebook.

    Could try this...a short clip that is part of a series of six or so demonstrating the preparation of a "waxed end" for Traditional HW inseaming:

    http://www.bootmaker.com/pics/styleforum/preparing the bristles.wmv

    --
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014
  15. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,887
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney
    wow, intense bristle work
     
  16. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,205
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    One small step for a shoemaker one, giant leap for...:)

    Without the knowledge of using real 8" India Blond or Siberian Black, the leap to splitting the nylon was not going to be apparent.

    The British started using nylon bristles some time ago. I used to get some small packets from my friend at CWF...although I do not believe that they were made from monofilament fishing line, They'd rough up the bristle with sandpaper (as illustrated in the video) and then using the teeth of a lasting plyer crimp the portion they intended to wrap. It works...to a point..

    But splitting the bristle and then plying the taw and the legs of the bristle together is near-as-nevermind foolproof.

    --
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014
  17. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,205
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    BTW...and not to toot my own horn too loudly...I'm pretty certain I invented the technique of splitting the nylon bristle. Of course, boar's bristles are naturally split--like over grown split ends, which is why I mentioned the 8" India Blonds, etc.. So, the idea was a natural progression and was rattling around out there--a friend suggested (but never, to my knowledge actually tried it) that nylon might be split with a Fortuna skiving machine. I did try it and damned near ruined the bell knife.

    I never saw nor heard of anyone being so illogical as to think they could split a piece of nylon monofilament with just a sharp knife until I did it and started showing it around.

    But it illustrates a point--that knowledge is cumulative and requires hands-on experience to acquire and to push forward. Expertise is not to be had from a book or a video or copy and paste from the Internet.

    --
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014
  18. thelonius

    thelonius Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    236
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2013
    Location:
    France, near Geneva, Switzerland
    These posts are amazing. What you are saying is very profound. When I was studying, doing a doctorate in plant sciences, I tried to understand the relationship I was having with the machines and bench techniques I was using. Often they weren't giving me the results I wanted, or was expecting. But hour after hour, month after month, working with these methods, I realized it was they that were teaching me something. And when I started to listen, a different relationship grew. I was reading Arthur Koestler's "Ghost in the Machine" at the time, and I think (but not sure, because I need to read it again) that's what he was talking about. It's the act of doing which teaches. And that can't be gained by anything else but doing. Please show us more about this method. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014
  19. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,205
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    :fonz:

    What kind of "more" do you want to see / know?
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014
  20. thelonius

    thelonius Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    236
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2013
    Location:
    France, near Geneva, Switzerland
    Do you have any photos of use of the nylon, following splitting, as a needle ?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by