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Leather Quality and Properties

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by VegTan, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    How have you avoided Alden's LHS? It is a classic. Also, the plain toe blucher, though Church's does that well, also. But I would get it from Alden if I had the choice - I have it on the modified last, but that is a real derby. The classic PTB should be shell and in wholecut style, with a storm welt, like this:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    I think I will get the CJ for RL Marlow PTB instead of Alden. The one thing I really wanted from Alden is LWB, just not in barrie...
     
  3. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    pB is all officewear with 95% black shoe
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    Easy, I don't like loafers, or bluchers.
     
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I was going to do a MTO with Alden of 5 punch cap black shell oxfords on the aberdeen last, but they only do runs of 12 these days. 12 pairs of the same shoe is crazy.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2013
  6. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    meh. The Alden PTB, in No. 8 or black, is a classic American business shoe.
     
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I won't argue that, but I still don't like it.
     
  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    good to know, guess I will start paying attention next time...
     
  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    Not hard to figure, given how active you're on GG and StC threads... :satisfied:
     
  10. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Well-Known Member

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    I can't remember if this was covered, but how does wood versus plastic lasting affect the end result? This was covered in the Gaziano & Girling thread, but am interested to hear the responses on this thread.
     
  11. Munky

    Munky Well-Known Member

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    On the other site, I described how I had used Saphir Shoe-Eze to help make some suede shoes more comfortable. Someone remarked that suede seemed to stretch more easily that other leathers. The difference between my using Shoe-Eze on calf and the same product on suede certainly seems to bear this out. If it is the case, why is it?
     
  12. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    If the shoe was not marketed as "full grain" suede or "reverse calf" or something like that, there is the possibility that the "suede" was really just a "split"--separated from the top grain--with the top grain going on to be used in other, perhaps more costly, shoes.

    Once the grain is removed, nothing is left but relatively widely spaced fibers which move far more easily than the densely packed fibers of the grain.

    If the suede in question was truly reverse calf, then another possibility is that the suede was simply absorbing more moisture than the top grain calf. Of course this would always be the case, whether the leather was a split or a reverse, but depending on how the top grain was finished it might absorb significantly less moisture than the flesh.
     
  13. Munky

    Munky Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for your usual, detailed and useful reply. My suede shoes are described, rather mysteriously as 'HI SUEDE WP' I would welcome your ideas about what this may be.

    [FONT=Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]To use reductio ad absurdum, if suede 'gives' more than other leathers, why do they not, over time, become 'flabby' and too loose to wear?[/FONT]
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2013
  14. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    No idea what the marketing name means. As regards suede getting flabby, some will some not so much. Again it may depend on the presence or absence of the grain. That said, beyond a certain point it is the moisture that allows the leather to stretch. Some feet perspire more, some almost not at all. Applying the stretching fluid (which is really just a perfumed alcohol and water to more readily break the "oil barrier") is the mitigating factor in the stretching...without it the leather might not have any reason to stretch and/or become flabby. And finally shoes are often lined with a good veg tanned grain leather...such as kip...even if the suede is prone to flabbiness, the lining is not.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2013
  15. Munky

    Munky Well-Known Member

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    As always, DFII, thank you very much.
     
  16. Munky

    Munky Well-Known Member

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    I've dug around a bit and found that 'HI Suede WP' is described as follows:

    'A traditional lightweight suede with medium nap, it has the added advantage of being water-resistant'.
    • Does this mean anything in particular?
     
  17. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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  18. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like sales and marketing crap to me...
     
  19. TimH

    TimH Well-Known Member

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    Great to see this thread - well done Vegtan.
    After 30 years of making belts and leather goods using only the best leathers, I am still amazed by how many variables that occur within leather even sometimes with the same type, quality and colour from the same supplier - I have however managed to not let it drive me insane yet - I think? :)
    Keep this going as it makes informative reading for everyone and should help people avoid buying poor quality from the disreputables.
    Best,
    Tim Hardy
     
  20. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    Only that it's probably been treated with something like a non-staining, non-greasy, silicone waterproofer. There's also one (or used to be) based on fluorine.
     

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