1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Kiton- what is really inside, lots of pics.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by the truth, Jul 2, 2007.

  1. the truth

    the truth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    111
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2007
    There is tons of talk around here about the difference between the various high end suit makers found in upscale department stores. Luckily for everybody, I had an old Kiton jacket sitting around which I was willing to sacrifice for the good of the team. What I found inside may be considered shocking. Lets have a look. First, the lining and Cashmere tag clearly mark this coat as Kiton: [​IMG] Opening up the jacket from the body side to get a good look: [​IMG] First look inside is of the way the various internal layers like canvas and felt are stitched together. Note that these are all clearly machine stitches: [​IMG] Connection of these “guts” to lining and body fabric also machine done: [​IMG] A reverse side view shows the same stitching on the canvas side: [​IMG] Here is the big boy. This picture with the jacket virtually filleted shows that all of the canvas work, that work which is the guts, the roll, the collar, is done by machine: [​IMG] Now, if all of this is done by machine, what is done by hand? The collar, while not hand padded is attached to the coat by hand: [​IMG] Beautifully handmade buttonholes: [​IMG] All edge and pick stitching by hand: [​IMG] Sleeve attachment sewn by hand: [​IMG] I have never owned an Attolini, Brioni, Zegna or Borrelli jacket so I can’t say how it compares. I hope you found my pictures interesting.
     
  2. johnapril

    johnapril Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,663
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    All it says to me is Kiton uses some piss ugly fabric on some of its sportcoats. Do they claim to attach all the guts together by hand?
     
  3. Willsw

    Willsw Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,221
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2007
    Location:
    DC
    Reading styleforum first makes you buy clothes...and then makes you destroy them!
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. josepidal

    josepidal Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,923
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2006
    Location:
    Boston, MA
    Wow. Welcome to SF.
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Do they claim to attach all the guts together by hand?

    Not to my knowledge, but others have claimed it on their behalf, and gotten quite upset when challenged.

    I like the fabric, BTW. You'd think a guy with green dress boots would be more open-minded.
     
  6. Leslierc

    Leslierc Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    315
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Fascinating! I just purchased my very first Kiton blazer - 45% cashmere/55% linen - and I must admit that the fit is incredible, like nothing else that I own (RLPL, Oxxford, Armani, Canali, Corneliani, Hugo Boss, Valentino, Pal Ziliri). Thank you very much for that sacrifice and "valuable" education!
     
  7. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,667
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    This was almost as fascinating as the Spice Girls reunion tour news.
     
  8. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,647
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    Ed, your avatar isn't fooling anybody.
     
  9. WSW

    WSW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    581
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
    Location:
    Washington, D.C.
    Wow. Welcome to SF.

    I don't think he's (or she's?[​IMG])new.
     
  10. the truth

    the truth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    111
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2007
    All it says to me is Kiton uses some piss ugly fabric on some of its sportcoats. Do they claim to attach all the guts together by hand?
    I do not know that they do, but they do claim to make a handmade jacket which apparently consists of buttonholes, pickstitching and attaching the collar and sleeves by hand. With this being true, what is the difference between them and most of the other fully canvassed with a little handwork makers? Fabric?
     
  11. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,667
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    I do not know that they do, but they do claim to make a handmade jacket which apparently consists of buttonholes, pickstitching and attaching the collar and sleeves by hand. With this being true, what is the difference between them and most of the other fully canvassed with a little handwork makers? Fabric?

    Exactly, I mean that is my point about the Spice Girls also. What is truly the difference between the Rolling Stones or Springsteen and the Spice Girls??
     
  12. WSW

    WSW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    581
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
    Location:
    Washington, D.C.
    Well, Mr. Truth, I'm glad you decided to sacrifice your jacket for the good of the forum. This is real evidence that has really dispelled some myths.
     
  13. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    With this being true, what is the difference between them and most of the other fully canvassed with a little handwork makers? Fabric?

    Well, pattern cutting for one thing. They have their own block pattern system, like every maker does, and it results in a unique look, which I suppose one likes or does not like, but which is nonetheless proprietary.

    Also, the type, amount, distribution, and quality of the canvass and padding will effect how the garment looks, wears and feels.

    I don't deny that Oxxford is better made, but I would still rather wear Kiton.
     
  14. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,452
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2004
    KiToN lvrs = pwned
     
  15. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,452
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2004
    I don't deny that Oxxford is better made, but I would still rather wear Kiton.

    Me too, actually.
     
  16. satorstyle

    satorstyle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    689
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2007
    Location:
    Maryland
    Those IMO look like hand stiches, there is quite a bit of irregularity in the stich layout.
     
  17. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,106
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2006
    Location:
    the Zoo
    Very very educational.

    I admire your willingness to sacrifice a cashmere Kiton jacket. Even though the fabric and the color has been called ugly, I'm sure an offer for sale would have generated multiple responses and interests.

    It's a tried and true retail tactic. By making the price so outrageously expensive, the manufacture actually generate so much buzz and eventual mystique that the truth becomes irrelevant.
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Those IMO look like hand stiches, there is quite a bit of irregularity in the stich layout.

    They aren't. Any time you see that trailing stitch -- those loops of thread that visibly link every single stitch in the chain -- that's a dead giveaway of machine padding.
     
  19. satorstyle

    satorstyle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    689
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2007
    Location:
    Maryland
    They aren't. Any time you see that trailing stitch -- those loops of thread that visibly link every single stitch in the chain -- that's a dead giveaway of machine padding.

    Thanks for the education. I've owned Kiton for years never having the intestinal fortitude to take one apart. It's enlightening to see what many claim as the "holy grail" of RTW and MTM clothing has some machine work as well
     
  20. imageWIS

    imageWIS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    I still like Attolini more. Now, how's willing to take apart an Attolini?

    Jon.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by