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Kent Wang - Affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kent Wang, Nov 23, 2009.

  1. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jul 14, 2013
  2. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Well-Known Member

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    Trial KW suit.

    Would appreciate suggestions on alterations before I email Kent. I know I have to shorten the sleeves substantially. I have t-rex arms. It makes reaching for things a pain in the ass.

    I'm particularly curious about how to fix the line at the back of the pants. Pockets are also flaring.

    Excuse the shirt. It always does this weird billowy thing. My other shirts are packed, as I'm in the process of moving.


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    Thanks in advance for any feedback.
     
  3. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    You might be right... it isn't lined in the back, and the shirt may have been doing it. That's a really good observation. It's not bad enough to change on the next one so I'll leave it for now.

    If .5cm isn't enough, it'll remedy it a decent amount. I'm sure 1 is too much. I think in this instance not fixing it enough is way better than overdoing it. So .5cm will be all that's done this time around.

    The sleeves are kind of where I want them. Here's a pre-tailor pic with no button up shirt, but showing the silhouette;
    [​IMG]

    The sleeves were longer and the sides weren't as suppressed. I like the longer sleeves, maybe to show 1cm of cuff total. At least for now and this can always change. I don't see where Fly said .5cm though?

    I kind of like the wide lapels now but I'm waiting to decide to put them on the next suit for when I get a shirt I'd actually button up, to try on. If the wide lapels look good with a curved cutaway collar and a 3.5" tie, I may get them again. They were tough to get used to but they do look pretty dang good, too. I will say.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2013
  4. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    I can tell you that's not an easy fix and Kent may not be able to completely remedy that. I have the same thing but on an extreme level (very extreme). I've been told it's caused by, "low flat seat and seem posterior pelvic tilt. The long back rise needs to be shortened. The seat angle needs to be deepened, and the trouser fork line needs to be shifted forward slightly." This was by OTCTailor.

    I'm working with another company to see if it's possible to remedy it online at all. I've tried to pull the rear panel up (which means lowering the waistband) and then lengthening the rear rise (so you don't get a wedgie). The process will be done in about a month through the other company. You can read about my dealings in the fit feedback thread.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. razl

    razl Well-Known Member

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    Whoa; and I thought I was serious about pants fit details. That's a hard won, serious trouser-surgery expertise read there.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2013
  6. babygreenspots

    babygreenspots Well-Known Member

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    Getting the right fit on trousers is quite a challenge indeed...
     
  7. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Honestly, trousers might be the hardest thing to fit right for MTM...

    Ordered one of the polos on Thursday; received Saturday. Very nice! Love the fit of it--it's fantastic. Now, if other colors would come back into stock...
     
  8. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    I really just want pants to look 90% great on me. It's hard. I don't have a weird body or anything, maybe just an eye for it.
    You have no idea. Read the "about pants" thread. I've read it all while at work on downtime. Intense stuff.
    Yep. I thought a sport coat was hard. That is easy compared to a semi-complex pants fit.
    And I want some of the polos so bad. just one or two.
     
  9. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    I believe you're right, good sir. Might be suppressed by a better darted shirt or a fully lined jacket. Good call. Kent and I are emailing about it now but this looks pretty good to me.


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    edit. Maybe now you can better see the bad pocket folds created by Zizzo Tailoring in Phoenix. I'm scared to take the jacket anywhere else.

    Future alterations:
    -1cm waist suppression (already pictured is -1.25)
    -.5cm sleeve rotation
    -.5cm sleeve length (already pictured is -.6)
    -1cm bicep
    -.5cm cuff
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2013
  10. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Well-Known Member

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    Jacket looks pretty good overall. I'd say -2.5cm on the sleeve length, though you can probably best determine this yourself. Chest might be a tough tight, because it doesn't quite look like the lapels are laying completely flat. I'd say +0.5 cm to the chest. Maybe -1.5cm on the back chest to clean up the slight wrinkling. Front/back balance looks slightly, off, but not sure if it's enough to warrant attempting to correct it. These are just my amateur opinions, though. I'd listen to whatever Kent says. :) Also, if you want to clean up the billowyness of that shirt, get a tailor to add darts. I'm a huge fan of darts on my dress shirts!
    I didn't. I think he was just referring to my comment that you should attempt to fix the wrinkling at the back of the sleeves. :) BTW, I think the wide lapels look fantastic on that jacket.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  11. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. Some shirts come tomorrow with the collar I like (the NOBD collar, if you follow the Luxire thread). I want to see how they look on this. If this requires a seriously firm fused collar, I probably won't get another one. But I do agree, they look good and would look great with a patterned jacket. Green windowpane KW jacket, wide lapels. [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  12. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the suggestion. Found these gems of threads from Manton:

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/71198/the-amazing-blazer-suit/0_100

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/119664/blazersuit-the-final-chapter/0_100

    Guess my idea is SF approved after all. :slayer: A "blazer suit" will definitely be my next acquisition.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2013
  13. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Well-Known Member

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    I do read the Luxire thread from time to time and am familiar with the highly coveted NOBD collar, lol. It's a nice collar, indeed. :nodding:
     
  14. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    I knew it was SF approved, just preference. I would definitely not get the 3PP though. Welt +2PP is the way to go for those I think. 3PP is reserved for seriously casual stuff in my mind. Like my linen jacket.
     
  15. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Well-Known Member

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    I concur. It will be just as I described several posts up. Patch side pockets, welt chest pocket. This is the most versatile configuration for the jacket of a "blazer suit", IMO. Also, Manton's jacket is a 3 button (3r2.5, it looks like) but mine would be a 2 button.

    Jester, have you considered having a pair of trousers made up in the same fabric as your navy blazer?
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2013
  16. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    I have. But here's the fit pics for the pants.. Some of it can't be fixed by an MTM service. I have no suit and I'm OK without owning one for a while, until I know if this issue can be fixed after the pants are already made.

    Warning, it's pretty disturbing. Put down your food. Sit down. Then read spoiler.


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  17. GradSchooler

    GradSchooler Well-Known Member

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    Oh, god! I don't feel well...
     
  18. mrjester

    mrjester Well-Known Member

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    Some people don't have the stomach for it.
     
  19. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for this. Seriously considering doing this instead of standard suit, since I don't have a solid navy separate jacket.

    Thanks. I'm following the the luxire/pinning adventure. In my side profile pic, I would've guessed slight anterior tilt, rather than posterior. It's like I have too much upper butt (pocket flare and seat tightness) and not enough lower butt (nothing to hold the fabric off the back of my thighs).
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    I read it too! That's what made me so paranoid about the drape at the back.
    Glad to help! [​IMG] Those pics do look much better. In the same vein, I'm going to retake my fit pics with a better behaved shirt before emailing Kent.

    I can see the pocket issue now that you mention it. I think it's something that only veteran SFers would notice. I've been lurking for a while and I didn't see it at first. At the same time, I would expect a quality tailor to meet those veteran SFer standards, particularly if you explicitly asked them to adjust the pockets to prevent this.
    Thanks. Good catch about the chest. Agree on back chest. I'm unsure on balance, too. I think the puffy shirt is making it hard to tell. I'm retaking side profile pics in a t-shirt for this reason.

    I think that the shirt is so bad it threw the jacket off a little. The material of the shirt is pretty stiff. Serious darts are needed to contain that craziness. It's like my tailoring bill never ends.
     
  20. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Well-Known Member

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    Fantastic!
    Are you sure the pants aren't just wrinkled? EDIT: Nevermind, just saw the problem on that massive pic set a few spots above. Maybe fix by doing a bunch of squats and building up a ghetto booty?
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013

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