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Kamakura Shirts - Madison Ave Store

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Eustace Tilley, Jan 25, 2013.

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  1. Evolve

    Evolve Well-Known Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2014
  2. rodneytrousers

    rodneytrousers Member

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    I made a trip to NYC yesterday and made a point to visit the store, and after trying on a few shirts decided on the New York Slim Fit. I got a blue OCBD (it was still wrapped up), and when I got back to where I was staying the night opened it up to find it had a box pleat and no darts. Have they changed the styling of the NYSF? Going by the description on their website it seems like it should have the darts.
     
  3. Siepi

    Siepi Active Member

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    I'm not sure why the webpage for the blue OCBD doesn't have it, but here's the description from the white OCBD, and it holds true for all of their OCBDs:

    "This shirt will have a center box pleat instead of back darts. The chest measurement will be approx. 1” (2 cm) larger than the standard Slim Fit. This shirt also has an improved collar roll."
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2014
  4. .Impulsv

    .Impulsv Well-Known Member

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    Finally snagged a pink oxford in my size!
     
  5. JDMills

    JDMills Well-Known Member

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    Had my pink oxford for a year now, great thick oxford cloth and the best collar roll around for the price!
     
  6. JDMills

    JDMills Well-Known Member

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    No if you look all the oxford cloths are done with a box pleat and no darts, they cut them with the same features regardless of the sizing (slim or regular) they're trying to preserve what makes an ocbd an ocbd. The proper "dress shirts" ie. spread collars etc. all have darts in slim fit.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
  7. Evolve

    Evolve Well-Known Member

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    This is most certainly NOT true. I received a Tokyo Slim Fit oxford BD collar shirt last week, and it had darts and no pleats, as expected.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2014
  8. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Well-Known Member

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    As do all of my NY slim fit oxfords
     
  9. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Well-Known Member

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    Originally the Kamakura oxfords had two back darts and no pleats, but in response to criticism that darts were the antithesis of the Ivy spirit, they have progressively been updating their styles to produce shirts without darts, and featuring box pleats instead. This configuration is much closer to the BB Makers shirts that the Kamakura shirts (uncoincidentally called "Maker's Shirt" in Japan) are modelled on.

    Rather confusingly there are both pleated and darted versions of the same shirts still available on the Kamakura site, so it pays to check if the description indicates whether the specific shirt you are looking at comes with pleats or not.
     
  10. jawboneofa

    jawboneofa Well-Known Member

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    I'm thinking about ordering my first shirt from Kamakura and would like to start out with a blue stripe OCBD. I was hoping you guys could help me out with which fit is best. I take an ESF in Brooks Brothers; is that equivalent to the New York Slim Fit in Kamakura? My apologies if this has been covered elsewhere in the thread; I read through about 20 pages without finding a fit translation.

    Assuming that's the right fit, I can't seem to find any NYSF OCBDs in blue on the Kamakura website. I see them in red, purple, and green, and a broadcloth button down in blue, but no oxford. Any help there, too?
     
  11. bradp

    bradp Well-Known Member

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    From what I have read, yes, that seems correct. NY Slim ~ BB ESF. Also, I can say from experience that the Tokyo Slim (which I wear) is a tad slimmer than the BB ESF (which I also weaer), but not by a whole lot.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  12. Turner

    Turner Well-Known Member

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    Kamakura stocked up on the New York and Tokyo knitted shirts, which seem to be longer than the previous shirts. I've asked them if they changed their pattern:

    We are sorry for the confusion, but the pictures do look different because we have used different torso.

    However, we have not changed our knit shirts size.
    So, all the knit shirts are the same measurements.
    Please take a look at our sizing guide.
    http://kamakurashirts.com/contents/styleguide/

    We will retake the pictures with the same torso so that it will not cause any confusion.
     
  13. jawboneofa

    jawboneofa Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, Brad. I have a little extra room in the ESF so I might be able to make the TSF work, but I'm concerned about the armholes being too tight. I've read elsewhere in the thread that that is a problem for some. I think I'll stick with the NYSF just to be safe.
     
  14. bradp

    bradp Well-Known Member

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    Great. If you remember to, I would be interested to hear how it turns out (i.e., how you find the fit compared to BB ESF).

    It seems tough to translate sizing across brands, bc based on my experience with Kamakura, it doesn't seem like you can pick a fit, then pick a size as I think you can at BB. In my experience at BB, I decide I want ESF, then find my size on the ESF rack. My experience at the kamakura store (confirmed by their sizing chart) is that you have to know your size, and hope that the fit available in that size works for your body. So when I was measured to be a 15 3/4 33, it was only available in TSF (which luckily worked). But maybe I'm missing something.
     
  15. jawboneofa

    jawboneofa Well-Known Member

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    That's an interesting observation. Now that I look at the measurements available in the different fits, I might have to go with the TSF.
     
  16. arnathor

    arnathor Well-Known Member

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    Any idea which mill produces Kamakura's Oxford?
     
  17. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Well-Known Member

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    Xingjiang cotton mill #4215.
     
    2 people like this.
  18. Churchill W

    Churchill W Well-Known Member

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    Hmm. I didn't even bother trying on the NY Slim Fit when I bought my blue OCBD. The waist is already not as fitted as it could be on my Tokyo Slim Fit, but the chest was too tight on the closest size to 15-33, so I sized up to whatever a 39-87 is. Unfortunately, I don't think Kamakura shirts are going to work out for me size wize. I was hoping that the 39-87 would shrink enough that it would be good, but the sleeves are still a little long after several washes.
     
  19. bradp

    bradp Well-Known Member

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    Post results once you get it all sorted out, if you remember to.
     
  20. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys, quick question:

    I'm attending a wedding next August, and I intend to dress smart-casual (knowing the bride and groom, I certainly don't want to seem rude by overdressing them). I have my eyes set on the Kamakura knit shirts.

    My question is the following: I haven't seem those shirt in real life, so I'm in the mist; can I wear a tie with it (let's say just for the ceremony then take it off and undo a button or two) or is it strictly a casual shirt?

    I was planning on going navy sportcoat, light blue shirt, light grey wool trousers and maybe some sort of dark brown loafers.

    Thanks!
     

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