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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Well-Known Member

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    great pair NC, derby and norvegese combi is so full of win
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. jasonmx3

    jasonmx3 Well-Known Member

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    Wow! Wearable art!

    Curious as to why they have different last designs. The one on the first pair doesn't seem like it's using a spring or hinge.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!! Yes they are! Was initially going to do the chain-type norvegese, but opted for the simple one to make it look less obtrusive.



    Thanks Jason!
    Hopefully more wearable than my first pair, which sees very few action. :D

    You mean the shoe trees? The first pair has a set of 3-piece trees, looks great but honestly they are a pain to use. So for the second pair, I opted for a hinged one.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2013
  4. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Well-Known Member

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    The Japanese are amazing. How artful. I am taken back especially by the thoughtful details on the sole. The areas where the nails are where I have the most wear on my shoes. I would never have thought to put nails there-I'm sure those nails will increase the longevity of the shoe. Bravo, NC and IQ. Superb taste and craftsmanship.
     
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  5. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Well-Known Member

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    Wow! Amazing shoes nutcracker!
     
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  6. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    Oh nooooo shoe horn has chain stitching and shoes don't!!!! How can you live with yourself?
     
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  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    Goodness gracious - I presume, you will be calling these shoes "Pinocchio" -

    How the nose has grown! - :D

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    Without questioning what is undoubtedly impeccable craft on the whole cuts, to my eye there is simply something off with them. Maybe it is just that my image of an oxford shoe is that it should be striving for simple elegance, with just a note of stylistic differentiation, and the faux brogueing, and to a lesser extent the chiselled toe is fighting against the tight waist and closed lacing so the shoe ends up being neither one thing or the other. Whereas with the blucher all the elements seem to be pulling in the same direction.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  9. bamboo

    bamboo Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful shoes. Qnai-san definitely has a talent.

    Line from the side view look quite different to me, not just a toe but an angle of insteps. Split toe is more flat. Is this just on photo?
     
  10. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    You think that is a long nose? Have you been to Tokyo?
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    :lol:

    Yeah, those two pairs are essentially on the same last, but I'm amazed at how completely different they look just by tinkering with the toe/vamp proportion (which I'm happy I did!!!)
     
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    I actually went back and forth between the chain stitching and the plain lines over the months..... perhaps that drove Qnai san crazy and he just gave me both.... :worship:
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    The angle is a bit different, but you are correct!! The last was adjusted, including an even lower instep!!!
     
  14. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    I like the change!! Nice shoes. Very Lattanzi-esq except for the single stitched side stitch. What does the shoe looks like from the back?

    Without the decreased size of the apron, the testing shoes has the apron that's too big for English styled (or EG/G&G/JL styled) NST but too small for Italian/French styled NST.
     
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  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Chogal! I wasn't so sure about the test shoes' aprons too, so Qnai san suggested to pull them all the way up. Came out pleasantly Italian looking.


    From the back:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  16. barky

    barky Well-Known Member

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    A brave but nice choice, NC. That green is real nice.
     
  17. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Yes it was very thoughtful of Qnai. I just told what type of shoes I wanted (split toes), and the color. I just followed his suggestions and voila! I must give all kudos to Qnai san!


    Thanks!! :fonz:



    I was contemplating olive color for my first pair (ended up being mahogany). I really like the Moss Green (from Ilcea) though! Kinda looks black without light.
     
  18. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    extremely beautiful.
     
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  19. barky

    barky Well-Known Member

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    Ilcea? damn, looks like I am out of luck.
     
  20. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Yes the Ilcea company went bankrupt, but they still seem to be conducting sales as usual. I assume they are selling off their remaining stock? or perhaps bankruptcy doesn't necessarily mean that they stopped all operations.

    I also suspect there are plenty of Ilcea leathers already circulating in the market to last a while.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2013

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