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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Well-Known Member

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    @NC
    thanks for your reply, wow i didn't expect the lead time for MTO takes up to 3-4months depending the maker.
    How about Saion MTO? does they take that kind of time too? i thought in my mind i could have them finished in 1 week [​IMG]
    Does Spigola / il Quadrifoglio have RTW line? In your opinion what is the best japanese RTW you can get under 75K yen?
    i like the Corno blu offering, do you know another artisan that make italian style japanese RTW?
    sorry for the dozen question [​IMG]

    thanks
     
  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Yeah some makers take 3 months or longer for MTO shoes, but you can have them shipped.

    Saion MTO takes only 2 months to complete, but they require a fitting session so I didn't list it on the previous post.
    Unfortunately, Spigola and IQ don't offer a RTW line.

    For Japanese RTW shoes under ¥75K, Miyagi Kogyo, Central Shoes, and Corno Blu are my favorites, but you may want to check out other RTW brands too.
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/342761/...utcracker-japanese-shoemakers-brand-catalogue

    Other than Corno Blu, Perfetto makes fine Italian styled RTW shoes. Madras is another one (but they only blake constructed shoes)
    Hiroki Imai used to do RTW, but I think they only do MTO nowadays.
     
  3. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Well-Known Member

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    i see.. on another topic, do you know how long does isetan sale last? u mention they start at 17 july.
    many many thanks for your opinion [​IMG]
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Glad I can help.
    I recall last year's sale going on for at least a month, even after the Fall/Winter stuffs start hitting the shelf. Sale experts tend to visit periodically to check for restocks, or for additional markdowns (towards the end) :)
     
  5. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    This is from memory so may not be wholly accurate, but my Miyagi Kogyo MTO took 1 week less than the minimum quoted time. If I remember correctly it took 5 weeks, they quoted 6 weeks as normal, but for me it was 6 to 8 weeks because it was just before a holiday period, Golden Week or Obon can't remember, but they were done in 5 weeks. These are not up to the standard of some of the beauties in this thread but they are well constructed and there is a wide variety of style choices maybe 30 or more basic styles that can be modified by mixing and matching leathers, stitching etc. They have 3 different lasts; chisel, and round toe, and one that seems reminiscent of the Alden modified last. (I think nutcracker san mentioned this last in this thread) There is also quite a large selection of leathers (some European some Japanese), soles, linings, stitching etc. I believe they will do exotics and cordovan on request for an additional fee.

    I'm thinking of getting a pair of plain toe derbies in Japanese cordovan on their MD last, (Alden modified) (not shown on the English webpage) although I have not seen an example in real life yet. Again not the usual fare for this page but they do have a wide selection of styles that should appeal to many people. In the high 30,000 to mid 40,000 yen range I think they are an excellent buy.

    These pictures are all 2E, so if you have a medium or narrow foot they will be sleeker.

    Round (ES) last
    [​IMG]

    Chisel (CS) last

    [​IMG]

    And the one I'm considering

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2013
  6. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    I will be there for sure, I work 15 minutes walk from there twice a week.
     
  7. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Well-Known Member

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    @fang66

    Please upload your miyagi kogyo for additional eye candy on this thread [​IMG]

    Everytime i look at this thread i can't help but thinking how lucky japanese people that they pretty much have
    almost every brand of any product sold there (shoes, apparel, alc)

    In my country indonesia they only have few offering of shoes, like florsheim, church, trickers and they already considered high end here. Fortuna shoes brand Jalan Sriwijaya only sold in Japan or Korea, locals can't get them at all even if they come to the factory
     
  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I forgot about the Miyagi Kogyo MTOs. In terms of choices/variety, they're probably the best. Fang, you may want to try a new store in Aoyama called FANS. They are the official carrier of Hiroshi Arai MTO shoes. Arai shoes are made by Miyagi Kogyo, and has the same selection of leather (+ cordovan), same price and lead time. But there are 5 new lasts to choose from, and a bunch of designs (including plain toes) . You also have a choice to upgrade to handsewn welting, or coloring (patina)
     
  9. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Well-Known Member

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    Isetan Shinjuku you mean? doesn't the Sale available on all isetan branch ?
     
  10. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    Not all Isetan branches were created the same. Shinjuku is the place to go if you are interested in nice shoes.
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    +1 to Fang
    Isetan MENS Store is the place you want to go.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2013
  12. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    I have a pair of Jalan Sriwijaya very nice shoes.


    Sorry about the crappy cellphone camera pic, (taken on their birthday) and the fact that they pale next to some of the offerings here. I do like them very much though, great fit, and they look almost new 4 years later even though I wear them at least 3 or 4 times a month. Actually they look better than new as the leather has some character now.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the tip.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2013
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    That is a real bummer



    Nice boots Fang!

    Isetan has a great line up of Jalan Sriwijaya shoes, and for this Fall, they're bringing in some high end models to the lineup

    [​IMG]
    Jalan Sriwijaya loafer in blue lizard skin

    from M's Blog
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2013
  15. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Well-Known Member

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    this is kinda nice, any idea on pricing and discount?
    thanks
     
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    No pricing info yet.

    If you're wondering about the discount during the SALE, expect 30% and more
     
  17. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    talking about sales, United Arrows just released their SUMMER SALE schedule.

    Sale starts 6/28 (stores + Amazon.co.jp store) Expect 30%+ off for Spring/Summer stuffs

    UA Harajuku Men's Store, and The Sovereign House (Marunouchi) offers the best selection.
     
  18. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Well-Known Member

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    hi, does anyone know which WFG carries the most complete collection?
    how about Union Imperial and Miyagi kogyo RTW, have anyone compared both? which one has more quality? i read UI use good leather such as annonay, doesn't miyagi kogyo uses mainly domestic leather? CMIIW
    thanks
     
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    The WFG in Harajuku is their flagship store. They should have the best selection.

    Union Imperial and Miyagi Kogyo RTW are two different animals. UIs are more Italian styled, and they are handsewn welted. Miyagi Kogyo's are more English/American, and they are goodyear welted. IMO Miyagi Kogyos are as good as C&J hand grade in construction quality.

    UI uses Annonay, but from what I understand, theres several levels/range in leather quality (and pricing) available from large tanneries (like Annonay). I'm doubtful that the Annonay you see here are equivalent to those used for high-end shoes and Bespoke shoes. I could be wrong though.

    Miyagi Kogyo uses top grade Japanese kip, which is essentially calf-skin in European standard. (The Japanese have a different age criteria for calf/kip etc...). I don't see it as anything less vs similar priced imported leather.

    WFG stocks both brands, so you're in luck. Also, try out the Central Shoes
     
  20. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Well-Known Member

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    @NC

    Central shoes have nice line-ups, one that caught my eye is the oxford tan brogues (from your post)

    [​IMG]


    i read that Central Shoes also makes sanyo yamacho right? have you handle both of them?
    how about otsuka shoes? what are your opinion for Otsuka M-5 line?
    thanks
     

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