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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    IMO, Japanese have similar industrial mindset compare to the Germans as seen in most of their industries, all while a lot of them were trained under English/Italian shoemakers.

    So it could very well be that Japanese makers extracted the best from of both worlds/schools of thoughts.
     
  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Interesting stuff.
    Scientific shoemaking/last making has a big following in Japan. It's mainly being taught as the Kagami Method shoemaking (named after the guy who's been teaching this method of 50 yrs), I don't believe he takes the german method word for word, but has in fact adapted the scientifc method 'or what he call 'numeric conversion of intuition' as a pillar of his teachings. Quite a few notable bespoke makers swear by this methodl. Main'dor (Murakami Eiji) is one of them, I've seen picture of him scribbling papers full of numbers to analyse I suppose lol

    sorry bad picture, but just an idea of the last-making process
    [​IMG]

    The school's website
    http://www2.odn.ne.jp/kagami/
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Well-Known Member

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  4. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    Anyone of these makers visit the US?
     
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to Styleforum! Yes, we need more Japanese on this forum to represent. plz keep posting :fonz: Your blog is fantastic! yes, Qnai-san makes excellent shoes some more Qnais.....(pardon my photo skills) [​IMG] Sealskin whole cuts....crazy skinny [​IMG] just to make sure, he said these are sample shoes and probably not practical to wear :lol:
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  6. TehBunny

    TehBunny Well-Known Member

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    Boy am I glad my wife chose to go to Japan for the end of this year! Nutcracker as always great scans; here I was thinking your old scans were awesome enough ;) Hopefully I can pick up something good in Japan; are prices for foreign shoes made from outside of Japan as inflated as most say?
     
  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    yeah, but its strange because it depends on the brand.....GG shoes are grossly inflated, while Carmina shoes go from ¥60,000 without VAT, that is around 10%~15% more than elsewhere in today's exchange.
     
  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    nice, welcome!
     
  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    Interesting, so which part is scientific? I mean I assume once you finish with the scientific part you can still decide on how much longer the last can be, and how rounded or chiseled toe is, etc.
     
  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    1 person likes this.
  11. TehBunny

    TehBunny Well-Known Member

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    What's the difference price wise between Japanese and Foreign made shoes in Japan?
     
  12. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    This is a Mitteleuropa looking toe box.
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    For Japanese brands:
    I say for nice goodyear welted shoes, ¥30,000+
    Most Japanese RTW shoes fall under the ¥55,000 yen. Exclusive models (or shell cordovan model) cost more

    I say you won't find many foreign brands of quality to be priced under ¥50,000

    Carmina, Meermin, Church, Cheaney, AS, C&J, Weston, Alden etc.... all fall in the ¥50,000~¥100,000 bracket

    C&J benchgrade: ¥60,000+
    C&J handgrade: ¥77000
    Alden Calf: ¥76,000
    Alden Shell: ¥100,000
    Carmina: ¥63000
    Meermin: ¥58,000

    Edward Green: ¥130,000+
     
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    The only Japanese bespoke shoemaker I know who had a show in New York is Koji Suzuki. If I recall correctly from the interview (the one I translated), he said the interest generated at Styleforum played a big part to make the show happen.

    So yeah, I say it's definitely possible to have these makers visit the states, if we generate enough interest to guarantee enough orders if they come.
     
  15. TehBunny

    TehBunny Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the info nutcracker; was also wondering what it's like quality wise. Quality to price wise will I be getting more quality going for the 50k Japanese shoes compared to the 50k Meermin (which I assume is on the lower end of the 50-100k spread).
    Pretty sure I'll get a Japanese made shoe preferably midtier something equivalent to a C&J hand or bench grade if I spend too much on food :)

    Again thanks for the info; I understand I'm asking a lot of questions :p
     
  16. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    It's a pretty competitive market at the west coast with marquee names such as JL St James, Cleverley, G&G, and JLP bespoke
    already traveling to SF/LA. Not to say there are still local makers at Oregon and Seattle areas...

    But then at the current Fx, Japanese bespoke is a viable alternative to some of the British makers that seems to be in a decline.
     
  17. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    "ISETAN JAPAN SENSES "MEN'S FESTIVAL OF JAPANESE CRAFTSMEN", Saturday April 6th, 2013

    REPORT Part1

    [​IMG]

    a total of 20 master-craftsmen (tailors, shoemakers, accessory makers) showed up today at Isetan's event space

    [​IMG]
    Co-sponsored by MEN'S EX, our favourite men's fashion magazine??

    On the tailors side, notable big names such as maestro Sato Hideaki (from Pecora Ginza) was there. I didnt get to see Suzuki Ichiro (Henry Pool) or Japanese pantalonaio Osaku Hayato, but their works were there for display/order

    Of course, my main objective was to see some nice shoos

    [​IMG]
    Otsuka Shoes, with all its glorious history
    [​IMG]
    Otsuka's top of the line full handmade RTW shoes

    [​IMG]
    Sarto booth, the finest band of repair specialists

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    custom Edoya Shoebrushes

    [​IMG]
    Sarto's room shoes in shell cordovan

    [​IMG]
    "BOOTBLACK" Japan's answer to Saphir

    [​IMG]
    Custom shoecare trunk

    [​IMG]
    Bespoke Shoeshiner, Matsumuro. aka Maestro.

    [​IMG]
    his shiny shoes. He only uses cream polishes. He took them off and flexed them for me. No cracking whatsoever.
    If only I knew he was there to give shoeshines, I wouldn't have worn my suede shoes......bummer

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Bespoke leather bags by Ortus, formerly Clematis

    [​IMG]
    Nakata Hanger: The finest hangers in the world. Shaped from a single piece of wood.

    continued to Part 2
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2013
    3 people like this.
  18. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    Actually I tried to use only cream pollish to get the split shine. However, it is a harder method because it is quiet easy to get the leather damped, hence hard to get a shine

    And if one only put enough hard wax on the flex, it should not flex.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2013
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    It's really hard to say. I've tried several pairs of ¥50K Miyagi Kogyo shoes, and I thought they were excellent. Shape, fit was good, and the stitchwork/soles were finished very neatly. From the MEN'S EX issue where they took a pair of Miyagi shoes apart, the 'experts' said the quality was on par with Edward Green. But of course, I can't just buy their words. They do have a bias towards Japanese shoes, partially to encourage the industry.

    But one thing is for certain. The weakening yen has made Japanese shoes a whole lot cheaper to get, than lets say half a year ago.
     
  20. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    A phenomenal welcome to the forum...good luck in your ventures....
    I took the liberty to post some of my favourites from your blog.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2013

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