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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, Fugee does watch belts that start from ¥47,000. Though I`m sure they can do belts too.
    Ortus should cost similar to Fugee (i.e. expensive)

    I listed these two because I know they work with hippo and elephant. I can ask them for you, once I return to Japan this weekend.


    No? Here is a close up of the shoe. Looks good?

    [​IMG]


    I`m thinking these would be more comfortable, being handsewn welted, and hopefully made with better attention to detail. They are priced roughly same with a Dover w/Top Drawer finish.
    To be honest, I`m a sucker for anything on sale (these are roughly 20% off regular MTO price) so I might drop by the show to check them out.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  2. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    SC is hand sewn welted as well. They won't need to peg the waist if its squared not beveled.

    BTW, who are the shoe tree makers that knows how to make hollowed travel trees? It seems the guy making them in UK retired and G&G wasn't able to find an replacement...

    Not sure about the French tree maker for JL/Delos; hopefully he's still around.

    SC is the only company I know that has hollowed travel trees nowadays...
     
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    SPIGOLA`s hinged shoe trees in production at MOU, a cabinet maker in Kobe

    The bottom of the trees are hollowed, but I do not recall them going through the other side like SC trees. Maybe some other member has a picture of the underside.
    Il Quadrifoglio`s new hinged shoes look quite similar, he said they are made by a local last maker.

    SC trees really are something.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  4. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    SC Hollow trees are definitely worth the money, the thinniest part is no more than 3mm thick ....someone needs to catch a flight to Brasov (Romania) and track down this dude who's making them for SC......
     
  5. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Quote:If these are the same price as the Dover, than it's worth the money...... The guys that does the stitching of the Dover apron-like upper can command a hefty premium.......
     
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Up close shot of Hiro`s apron stitches. Very clean.
     
  7. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Quote:Agree - and the toe shape my kind of last too....will post a pic of my 82 Last Dover this evening.
     
  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Do you know much those SC trees are, if purchase seperatly?

    Spigola MTO`s hinged shoe trees, which are admittedly not as nice as SC`s, still commands a hefty price. I think they`re over ¥30,000, or $300 USD. Perhaps even more. I also heard that they don`t make money out of it at all. That is pretty much how much they pay the craftsmen for them.
     
  9. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    I was quoted back in 2012 by Ascot Shoes:

    1) €70 for the normal trees....

    2) €100 for the hollow ones....

    Extremely good value......

    If Spigola trees are costing $300 USD and he claiming there hardly any profit, I won't be surprised given the raw cost of material & labour is relatively higher than Romania.

    Vass has the same supply issues with their tree supplier in Hungary.
    This is a major problem if you have "key man" dependencies on certain
    aspect of the shoe making process....guess this risk applies to all industry.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  10. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Well-Known Member

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    Sorry....I have only these pictures.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    Perhaps...not digged
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    yeah, maybe not. Still quite good looking though.
     
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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  13. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Well-Known Member

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  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Comparing EG`s Dover with a Semi-Bespoke Hiro Yanagimachi may not be a good comparison. Probably not fair to imply that Hiro`s Derby is a Dover wannabe.

    If I want a Made in Japan Dover alternative, maybe I should look for something that looks more obviously similar :lol:

    MIYAGI KOGYO`s U-tip derby, the FUJIBANA, may actually be the Japanese answer to Dover. I remember reading about Miyagi Kogyo`s boss being obsessed with Edward Green. So I`m not so surprised that these look so much like Dover.
    In fact, they are really well made, I tried them once a year ago, and remember really liking them. Priced at ¥55,000 or so ($560 or 365 GBP)

    [​IMG]
    Miyagi Kogyo`s FUJIBANA. There is also a soft square toe version.

    [​IMG]
    Apron details

    I also recall doing a translation of a dissection done by MEN`S EX, so here it is (open the link, not image)
    [​IMG]

    And here the dissection of a EG Dover from MEN`S EX I did a long while ago. Enjoy!
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Close up of my EG Dover on the 82 Last - Double sole....as promised.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    And a couple pics of my shoe fix for March 2013 ....

    Left = EG Dover
    Middle = Vass
    Right = Saint Crispin
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    March 2013...
     
  17. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

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    I haven't seen willow for a long time. Very nice.
     
  18. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Willow Calf is RARE....very hard to source....

    They were made several years ago....taking me some time to source these.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Yes, Very very nice. The leather looks awesome.

    Btw, the Miyagi Kogyo I posted above uses Japanese Kip. Using imported calf will probably drive up the price.

    But yeah, Miyagi and EG shoes don`t belong in the same sentence in many ways :lol:

    But it is kind of nice to know that EG shoes are the inspirations and the models for some of these nicer Japanese makers like Miyagi Kogyo. Not just in style / appearance, but the details in construction too. There are lots of respect for English shoemaking tradition here for sure.
     

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