1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Sounds like quite an experience. Very flexible for Mr Qnai to meet clients ever changing needs.
     
  2. meister

    meister Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,319
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    

    You said no to Cleverley meets Bestetti with a subtle "wear anywhere green"? :facepalm:

    Just the blackened toe antiqueing alone is so awesome?
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    271
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2013
    I love these shoes.
    You got a Masterpiece.
    I'm looking forward to next pair of il Quadrifoglio.
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    Thanks! I'll post them tonight :fonz:



    Yes, I know how much of a pain I am :facepalm: But yeah, I'm lucky he was kind enough to accommodate my requests without any hesitation.



    You are correct. I had the nuts to refuse them :brick:
    I may have stuck with it if there was someone there to slap me out of my indecision :lol:


    Yes, those wingtips are drool-worthy in many ways. I'm sure he gets a lot of orders to make that same exact shoes!

    Though I must say I'm very satisfied with my pair.
     
  5. balex

    balex New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Just got back from Tokyo, where I bought three pairs of Il Cornu Blu. I tried on some other RTW brands like Perfetto, but I thought they were a bit too fussy.
    Too early to make a judgment but they seem to be working out pretty well; I got a wholecut 3 tier oxford in cognac, a very dark brown oxford half brogue, and some penny loafers in cognac. very Italian in style.
    One glitch with the loafers is that they are starting to peel back at the toe after I got caught in a downpour (they are close channeled so I mean the thin layer that covers everything) so I am having toe taps fitted.

    (first post!)
     
  6. bamboo

    bamboo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    451
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2012
    >balex Congratulation. Pictures please!
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2013
  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    Welcome to the forum! Wow, guess you took a plunge with 3 pairs of Corno Blu....from Isetan? Yes they are very Italian in style, but they are all goodyear welted shoes right?.

    and the rain problem you described... it happens, and I've heard it happen on JL, GG, and other nice shoe brands with closed channel. I don't think it means that the shoes are of lesser quality. I suppose you can glue it back on, or take it to a cobbler and see how he deals with it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2013
  8. bamboo

    bamboo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    451
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2012
    Sorry it is another un-sexy picture of GOC. RTW line. Model: Rusty

    Actually I would like to share the information about the repair by RESH previously mentioned. Toe part of the sole was wearing near enough to the welt, so I decided to enhance it with rubber.

    I did this at RESH shop in Mitsukoshi, Nihombashi.
    It is about JPY 2000 and it takes about 30min or so.

    They cut out the sole and replaced it with wedge shaped rubber and finish it to blend with remaining part.

    They can do this with leather, rubber or metal. Metal costs about JPY 4000.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    They did a very good job on the flushed rubber toe tips. Wish we have that kind of services here in San Francisco Bay Area.
     
  10. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    I wonder why Japanese clients still come to UK for bespoke shoe order? Most things I have seen here are above the typical London bespoke shoemarker's capacity.
     
  11. bamboo

    bamboo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    451
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2012
    Interesting question. I am not really qualified to answer, but my thinking is that Europe is a mecca for shoe making and many of them trained and apprenticed in UK or Italy.
    Most of them are relatively new in the trade, hence less experienced than well known houses in UK. Depending on the currency rate, for past two years, UK bespoke might be less expensive than Japanese who apprenticed (some time not so long time) there. So it can be seen "Why I pay more to the apprentice than to the master who trained him?"

    I am in the process of making one at GC.
     
  12. iamacyborg

    iamacyborg Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,476
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2013
    Prestige?
     
  13. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    But you can get it locally? Without a flight? Except branding, I don't see any Jap's shoes I have handle (e.g. Spigloa 9.5MTO, Saion bespoke and 10 MTO) are anyway worse than the big English names, in fact better.

    I am in the market of another pair of bespoke shoe, and I will not hesitate to get one from Mr. O in Hong Kong, because they will be locally made. Rather than paying less with some of my friends in UK.

    This is also the argument about supporting the local small-medium business activity.
     
  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    

    Man should rely on his own prestige, not something external.

    However, I do see this a valid argument.
     
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    
    Love the Rusty! :slayer: Great, one more fellow member who can attest to the fine job RESH does! They are located mainly in department stores of all places. Very busy during the weekends, but somehow they are able to get job done, fast! There are many repair shops in Tokyo that has the glitz and celebrity shoeshiners, but I think RESH is the hidden jewel.
     
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    That is exactly what I think many Japanese are thinking, in fact that is one of the ongoing issue/topic being discussed at the Bespoke thread in the Japanese 2ch forum. "Why pay same or more for a Japanese maker?"

    UK firms like Cleverley definitely has an edge in career and experience, and many Japanese still wouldn't ever consider getting a bespoke locally made.

    Of course, the main advantages of ordering locally is language for one, and being able to build a lasting relationship (or a patron-like relationship) with the makers.

    There are several other factors that I hear among pro-Japanese bespoke voices:
    1. They understand Japanese feet/anatomy as well as living customs better
    2. Perceived to be made in a higher standard of quality vs European shoes
    3. Support local artisans and industry
    4. Stylistically catching up (or have caught up already)

    And also keep in mind of how Japanese makers think about pricing their shoes. With an output of 4 to 6 pairs a month at best, ¥300K or so per pair is reasonable, if they intend to make a living or support a family just by making shoes (in the world's most expensive country to live). Any less, I find it hard for most makers to do it full time. Many in fact run shoemaking schools, or teach at local technical colleges. I don't think shoemaking is a career that will make any of them rich, but they love what they do, so good for them.

    I assume many English outworkers aren't able to support their lives by just making shoes, not sure but that is what I've heard.

    Considering that the shoemaking trade, especially the hand made variety, is a traditional craft that arguably has been on an irreversible decline in Europe and elsewhere, I think it is absolutely fantastic that it is seeing a Renaissance of some sort in Japan (of all places). And the fact that these small Bespoke artisans are still running the business after some years means that there must be a steady or growing pool of patrons that support them. The week yen definitely won't hurt (unless they import their materials).
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2013
  17. balex

    balex New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    That's good to know -- first time it has happened to me.
    Let me try to post some photos of the two I have at the moment,

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    
    I think Corno Blu lasts are among the finest looking out of Japanese RTW shoes. The lasts are very well thought out and balanced (I think they are based on Corno Blu's bespoke house last). When I saw it in Isetan a while ago, they looked good. They are definitely made, and priced, at a high end spectrum of Japanese RTW shoes, so I'm interested in how they hold up.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2013
  19. justsayno

    justsayno Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,735
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2008
    Location:
    CA
    Jalans are good value. But aren't they Good year welted, and not hand welted?

     
  20. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    


    Jalan shoes are handsewn welted, and machine bottomed. They call this method 'Handsewn Goodyear Method'. So no, Jalan shoes aren't goodyear welted.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by