Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[nutcracker]

I had a reunion of sort with shoemaker Ryota Hayafuji last weekend. He travels to Tokyo/Osaka twice a year from Munich (where he is based), and meeting him again, I was reaffirmed with how fascinating this character really is (for my previous encounter with Hayafuji, please check out here). His equally fascinating shoes could be described as thoroughly cosmopolitan. I can imagine the shoes belonging to a well travelled gentleman during the 1920`s, who's taste in shoes is not bound by typical English town shoes; but enjoys mixing in elements of shoes he encountered in France, Italy, Central Europe and beyond.

For my first commission, I asked for a pair of `masculine` looking dress shoes that diverges from the current trend of going sleeker and leaner . Full round toe, Baguette shaped last, Continental welts and square waists....there`s plenty of time to think over the design, but first, the last.....

Ryota Hayafuji: Well Dressed

Bespoke samples. Several are displayed on a year-round basis at Old Hat Tokyo.

Wide welt and stitchwork inspired by old American shoes

The black oxfords on his signature baguette shaped last (the `Paris Last`) look nostalgic and refreshing at the same time.

A recent article on a German newspaper

For those who can read Deutsch....

Footprints taken.... one of the elements of German orthopedae that Hayafuji incorporated into his last making.

and measured..... I`ll see you back in about 9 months!!

 

[bamboo]

I had a reunion of sort with shoemaker Ryota Hayafuji last weekend. He travels to Tokyo/Osaka twice a year from Munich (where he is based), and meeting him again, I was reaffirmed with how fascinating this character really is (for my previous encounter with Hayafuji, please check out here). His equally fascinating shoes could be described as thoroughly cosmopolitan. I can imagine the shoes belonging to a well travelled gentleman during the 1920`s, who's taste in shoes is not bound by typical English town shoes; but enjoys mixing in elements of shoes he encountered in France, Italy, Central Europe and beyond.

For my first commission, I asked for a pair of `masculine` looking dress shoes that diverges from the current trend of going sleeker and leaner . Full round toe, Baguette shaped last, Continental welts and square waists....there`s plenty of time to think over the design, but first, the last.....


Ryota Hayafuji: Well Dressed


Bespoke samples. Several are displayed on a year-round basis at Old Hat Tokyo.


Wide welt and stitchwork inspired by old American shoes


The black oxfords on his signature baguette shaped last (the `Paris Last`) look nostalgic and refreshing at the same time.


A recent article on a German newspaper


For those who can read Deutsch....


Footprints taken.... one of the elements of German orthopedae that Hayafuji incorporated into his last making.


and measured..... I`ll see you back in about 9 months!!

Hi. NC. It looks they will turn out a very interesting pair.

If you do not mind, may I ask which criteria you have for choosing your shoe makers to commission your own pair. I am curious because you have known and personally seen many Japanese shoe makers and I assume you had not placed order to every single shoe maker you have met.

 

[nutcracker]



Hi.  NC. It looks they will turn out a very interesting pair.  

If you do not mind, may I ask which criteria you have for choosing your shoe makers to commission your own pair.   I am curious because you have known and personally seen many Japanese shoe makers and I assume you had not placed order to every single shoe maker you have met. 

Thanks!
Yeah I wish I can order from all the shoemakers I`ve met

For this particular instance, I inquired several local and foreign makers about this specific vintage style/look that I was looking for. I actually asked Otsuka, since their vintage bespoke samples from Meiji ~ early Showa were what inspired me in the first place. However they didn`t seem interested in making a pair that would look like a replica of their old samples.

Then I revisited Hayafuji-san, and he seemed to know exactly what I was talking about. He sketched out some design ideas, and I really digged them. Love his lasts too. Not sure what he will think of this, but I felt a strong synergy between us

 

[The False Prophet]

Well it's only been a few months but I'm dying to come back to Tokyo! Looking very much like I'll be there on 1 July, in fact.

I don't suppose anyone knows when Isetan, Hankyu, Beams etc go on sale this year?

Kind regards,

FP

 

[bamboo]

Quote:
NC. Thanks for your reply it really makes sense and I see there is a good "be-speaking" relationship between you two. Keep us updated.

 

[nutcracker]



Well it's only been a few months but I'm dying to come back to Tokyo! Looking very much like I'll be there on 1 July, in fact.

I don't suppose anyone knows when Isetan, Hankyu, Beams etc go on sale this year?

Kind regards,

FP

Hi FP

Last year, Hankyu, Beams, and UA all started their sales on 6/28, but I heard they are pushing their sale back to early July this year (date not confirmed yet).

Isetan and Mitsukoshi already announced their sale dates. Starts a bit late on 7/17

 

[dappertimes]

I had a reunion of sort with shoemaker Ryota Hayafuji last weekend. He travels to Tokyo/Osaka twice a year from Munich (where he is based), and meeting him again, I was reaffirmed with how fascinating this character really is (for my previous encounter with Hayafuji, please check out here). His equally fascinating shoes could be described as thoroughly cosmopolitan. I can imagine the shoes belonging to a well travelled gentleman during the 1920`s, who's taste in shoes is not bound by typical English town shoes; but enjoys mixing in elements of shoes he encountered in France, Italy, Central Europe and beyond.

For my first commission, I asked for a pair of `masculine` looking dress shoes that diverges from the current trend of going sleeker and leaner . Full round toe, Baguette shaped last, Continental welts and square waists....there`s plenty of time to think over the design, but first, the last.....


Ryota Hayafuji: Well Dressed


Bespoke samples. Several are displayed on a year-round basis at Old Hat Tokyo.


Wide welt and stitchwork inspired by old American shoes


The black oxfords on his signature baguette shaped last (the `Paris Last`) look nostalgic and refreshing at the same time.


A recent article on a German newspaper


For those who can read Deutsch....


Footprints taken.... one of the elements of German orthopedae that Hayafuji incorporated into his last making.


and measured..... I`ll see you back in about 9 months!!

Such a great etiquette. Very dapper.

 

[The False Prophet]



Hi FP

Last year, Hankyu, Beams, and UA all started their sales on 6/28, but I heard they are pushing their sale back to early July this year (date not confirmed yet).

Isetan and Mitsukoshi already announced their sale dates. Starts a bit late on 7/17

I had a feeling that Isetan would be later, and I suppose I can handle missing that madness: last time was just a little too chaotic for me.

I see that Beams and UA are both in 'pre-sale' mode on their websites, so surely they can't be too far off? I picked up a couple of suits last time and I want another three or so, plus some sports coats, shirts, and of course SHOES...

 

[nutcracker]

Boot Black at the Pitti

and some new premium shoe creams. Tasty looking

Columbus FB

 

[HighToned]

I passed by Boot Black at Pitti.... but Unfortunately, they were too busy.

 

[PCK1]

Which flavor is the most delicious?

 

[nutcracker]

Imai Hiroki / Il Quadrifoglio Trunk Shows @ Hankyu MENS Osaka 6/22~6/23

Shoemakers Imai Hiroki and Atsuki Qnai (Il Quadrifoglio) are having a joint trunk show at Osaka right now.
They are among the 15 craftsmen or so participating at the Premium Bags & Shoes Order Fair at Hankyu MENS.
Show ends tomorrow (Monday)!

Price for IQ bespoke starts from ¥237,600. Imai Hiroki MTO starts from ¥59,400.

Mr. Imai Hiroki, marking his 10th anniversary this year

Hankyu MEN`S link

 

[nutcracker]

New Bespoke sample shoes in the works by Il Quadrifoglio:

Plaintoe Derby in faux-Carpincho Suede & Seemless Wholecut in D. Brown calf

Stay tuned for more pics of the new samples!

 

[coloRLOw]

New Bespoke sample shoes in the works by Il Quadrifoglio:

Plaintoe Derby in faux-Carpincho Suede

i always thought it's genuine carpincho

 

[nutcracker]



i always thought it's true carpincho

Nah, its textured (cow) suede. Looks great though, I say 90% like the real thing It`s also available in olive.

Other than Qnai-san, I`ve seen Ugolini, Spigola, and Il Micio offer the same leather as well. I assume they are readily available in Italy.