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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Well-Known Member

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    No.

    Nubuck is the grainside out. The grain is "buffed" (sanded) to create a velvet-y "nap"--similar to suede but much finer.

    Reverse calf is the leather turned fleshside out. The grain surface is still present but hidden. This is important because a great deal of the strength of a piece of leather is in the grain. (Nubuck is slightly less strong after the buffing.)

    Split suede (which means most suede) has no grain surface.

    --
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  2. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Well-Known Member

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    1 person likes this.
  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Well-Known Member

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  4. Revilo

    Revilo Active Member

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    Sorry if this is a re-post but god damn it they are beautiful! Yohei Fukuda penny greatness!

    [​IMG]

    Picture of a pair of bespoke shoes from Mr. Fukuda's tumblr
     
    7 people like this.
  5. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    Looks like the JL lopez model.
     
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  6. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. I find loafers is better with either square waist or blind welt all around. A blind welt waist loafer is kinda meh.
     
  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    How fascinating! A MEN`S EX booth at PITTI!! :)

    [​IMG]


    Men`s EX FB
     
  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Well-Known Member

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    is Mens Ex is the premier Japanese menswear magazine? Are there others that also come in English?
     
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    MEN`S EX comes in Japanese only. I`ve been a loyal reader for some years, but I predict THE RAKE Japan to quickly overtake the title as the best Japanese menswear magazine. RAKE Japan`s editor-in-chief Matsuo-san used to be Men`s EX`s editor in chief.

    RAKE Japan will be posting an article on 10-Best Japanese Shoemakers in the next edition (on sale later this month). I`ve been told the article will also appear on the English counterparts. Can`t wait!
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2015
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  10. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    Wonder if the magazine has different content in different countries, or is it uniform throughout.
     
  11. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. I read somewhere recently that LEON sells more copies than Men's Ex but I personally prefer Men's Ex as a) it features menswear from around the world and is not nearly so Italo-centric as LEON, and b) Men's Ex has quite a lot of interesting info on clothing construction and history and so on, whereas LEON is really more of a series of advertorials or features on how to be a "choiwarui oyaji" (cool/bad boy older guy).

    I didn't see any copies of the Rake Japan when I was there in December-January - has it started circulation as yet?
     
  12. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Well-Known Member

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    I feel like Men's Ex has gotten less interesting/more mainstream of late. Maybe the change in editor?

    I spotted Rake Japan, it looks like a bargain at about 950yen, although I can't really read japanese so the international edition may be worthwhile at 3x the price...
     
  13. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 21, 2015
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  14. mezentius

    mezentius Well-Known Member

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    Hi friends;

    I am currently in Tokyo for a few days, looking to purchase some nice RTW shoes. Where would be a good place to try on a few of these makers? Budget is flexible, starting around perhaps 50000 yen, but willing to go up further. Thanks!
     
  15. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Well-Known Member

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    That is one mean looking nail pattern. Best one I've ever seen! Truly a work of art!
     
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  16. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    One day. When I have too much money lying around. I will get one of those crazy sole nail pattern pair of shoes. As display only.

    They won't stand to regular wear and tear outside of some sheep or rabbit hair carpeting.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Well-Known Member

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    Try World Footwear Gallery. I've been meaning to go to check out Miyagi Kogyo for years.
     
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  18. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member

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    I've been to WFG in Ginza and it's a tiny shop, squeezed into a small frontage in a side street, next to the Mariage Freres teahouse. Some nice shoes, though.

    http://www.wfg-net.com/

    Another great shoe store is "Trading Post", which has stores in Ginza, Aoyama and a couple of other places. Again, they've got a decent range of shoes from a variety of Japanese, Euro, UK and American brands:

    http://tradingpost.jp/

    However, if I was only going to go to one place to look at shoes in Japan, I'd go to the basement of the Isetan department store Men's Annex building in Shinjuku. It's fantastic, with a huge variety of shoes on display, ranging from made-in-Japan shoes from brands like Regal up to exotic Euro brands that cost thousands of dollars. It's shoe heaven.

    Be aware that if you're more than a UK8.5, you'll probably struggle to find shoes that fit, unless things have changed over the past few years. Also be aware that imported shoes can be really expensive as there's a hefty import charge imposed on imported shoes. For some reason I don't understand, this seems to effect English and American shoes more than Euro/Italian shoes, as the prices for brands such as Alden and C&J are really high in Japan whereas the prices for shoes by Italian makers such as Santoni are closer to Euro prices.

    Someone like Nutcracker can probably chime in with more shopping suggestions.
     
    2 people like this.
  19. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Well-Known Member

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    WFG has some nice Japanese brands at pretty good prices. The Miyagi Kogyo ones should be in the price-range.
    Trading Post is great. The shoes made for their label by Japanese makers were mostly blake last time I checked, but they are priced good.

    Isetan should have a great selection yes.

    Make sure to buy the Japanese made shoes unless you want Alden modified (which is difficult to find other places in the world)
    There's a 30% tax on imported leather shoes, so prices will generally be 30% higher than US or Europe. The Japanese stores often stock special models that you won't find elsewhere. Saw some Edward Green models in December I had no idea existed.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Well-Known Member

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    UK 8.5 should be well stocked, and I`d move your size where the selection gets sparse up to a 9.5 or so...compared to twenty or so years ago, the selection in larger sizes is definitely more - the younger more affluent are now shoe fanatics compared to the older generation some time back...
     

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