Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[JermynStreet]

il vagabondo by Motoji Suga
Bespoke apron front shoes

Photos from il vagabondo

Is that a triple oak sole? I haven't seen any other triple oak sole-jobs besides Dincklacker.

 

[add911_11]



Is that a triple oak sole? I haven't seen any other triple oak sole-jobs besides Dincklacker.

After your comment, I realised how elegant is the shoe even with a heavy double or triple tapered sole

 

[nutcracker]



After your comment, I realised how elegant is the shoe even with a heavy double or triple tapered sole

+1

From certain angles (from the blog), the pictures certainly make me forget they are triple soled.


I really have to make a pilgrimage to Kobe area one day.....

 

[BespokeMakers]

Very nice. I wonder if it would look proper on myself.

Anyway, since I have praised and thanked Nutcracker before for his excellent contributions(all deserved), I must do the same for you BespokeMakers.

Thanks a lot !
I am greatly honored by your words.

 

[BespokeMakers]

I had good catch of Spigola.
Photos from bespoke SUIT 110

 

[jasonmx3]

I really have to make a pilgrimage to Kobe area one day.....

Where in Kobe is it located?

 

[nutcracker]



Where in Kobe is it located?

Il Vagabundo is actually located in Nishinomiya, near Kobe.

 

[SharperLiving]

A Visit to Emori Custom Shoemaker, Tokyo

Shoemaker Taizo Emori can make you a pair of bespoke shoes for ¥150K yen flat. Yes that costs less than most MTO shoes or even some high end RTW shoes. Yet make no mistake, these are not some watered down pseudo-bespoke shoes. By policy, Emori doesn't keep a collection of sample shoes, since all orders are made from scratch. Working alone from his atelier (that was converted from his late grandfather's medical clinic), he puts an incredible amount of effort into each pair (with an output of 3 pairs a month max). Aside from a few examples made years ago (posted below), I wasn't able to see much of completed works. Luckily, Emori-san's old (or should I say retro?) atelier was an absolute charm to be in (and to photograph), and he was a delight to converse with (he really is a funny guy).

I think the pictures came out great. Enjoy!



Trial shoes and lasts


Mr. Taizo Emori.

Emori Custom Shoemaker website
tel. fax 03-3771-6603
[email protected]

Emori has invited me to his atelier on Wednesday. I am based in London and have never had bespoke shoes before

As I am going to start working soon (yes, I am only 22, but have not started my full-time grad job yet), I will not have a chance to pop back to Tokyo for quite some time (at least a year), so I am worried about going bespoke; Emori said he sends the trial shoes by international post.

The other options are Spigola (again, I'm curious as to whether this amount of money can be justified) or a pair of RTWs for half the price. I picked up some brilliant Miyagi Kyogo monk-straps yesterday. What do you guys recommend?

 

[nutcracker]

You don't often see a Dainite sole that looks this slick...

Pics taken from the recent Il Quadrifoglio Show in Tokyo

 

[chogall]

Holy ****. It's blind welter at the waist too...

 

[bengal-stripe]



Holy ****. It's blind welter at the waist too...

Nope! - It's conventionally made. Stitched to the mid-sole with a bevelled waist. It's very neatly cut ("just show stitches"), you see the stitching on top of the welt. The Dainite sole is cemented on top.

The Dainite sole is actually quite large (but it might have been the smallest size available) and, presumably, the shoes are quite small. Which places the studs closer to the edge than they are supposed to be. There wouldn't have been any space (without going through the studs) to stitch the Dainite sole.

 

[mimo]

I'd assumed it was glued on, too, which almost seems a shame given the beauty of the shoe. I can see why, though.

What I'm wondering is how much stress there is on the cementing with the sole shaped around that London waist? I'd like a report from Nutcracker every six months of wear.

It certainly looks pretty extraordinary, though.

 

[nutcracker]



Nope! - It's conventionally made. Stitched to the mid-sole with a bevelled waist. It's very neatly cut ("just show stitches"), you see the stitching on top of the welt. The Dainite sole is cemented on top.

The Dainite sole is actually quite large (but it might have been the smallest size available) and, presumably, the shoes are quite small. Which places the studs closer to the edge than they are supposed to be. There wouldn't have been any space (without going through the studs) to stitch the Dainite sole.

Yes! the dainite sole is cemented on, and it takes the contours (on the bevelled waist) quite nicely IMO. Qnai-san said it was a pain to make it. and yeah, the soles do look thick, maybe the owner requested for a double sole? I recall Dainite (or was it Vibram?) has a `thin` version of the studded sole (for dress shoes).

ps these are not my shoes

 

[mimo]

Even so, as a matter of journalistic integrity you must find the owner and follow him around.

 

[Gianni Cerutti]

I had good catch of Spigola.
Photos from bespoke SUIT 110

Beautiful collections...