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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Bespoke Sneakers by Guild of Crafts

    I came across this at the Guild boutique in Ginza. This is Yamaguchi-san's new project, dubbed "be spoken Sneaker Skip". Made to bespoke standard (with personal last, handsewn welting, fitting session etc...)
    I haven't seen an actual sample, and no info is posted on their website yet.

    Here is the brochure I managed to get.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Looks like foam cast inprints of the feet. Not sure.

    [​IMG]
    Custom insole accurately replicates the shape of your foot sole for maximum walking comfort
    (with what looks like cushion inserts).

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    Oak Bark insole. Looks quite luxurious.

    [​IMG]
    Image of a completed sneaker, with what looks like ghillie style lacing. I assume the upper is made of leather.

    [​IMG]
    Custom rubber sole

    [​IMG]
    Now the pricing:
    Full hand made Bespoke sneakers go for ¥440,000.
    Semi-hand made Bespoke with machine stitched sole go for ¥290,000.
    Semi-Order (MTO) sneakers with customisable last go for ¥130,000.

    BAM! There you go, a pair of full bespoke sneakers that cost $4,500 USD. You also get a free pair of Guild's shnazzy leather shoe trees. Apparently, they had more than 10 orders of these within a month since launch.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2013
  2. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    interesting. what is the difference between bespoke sneakers and bespoke shoes?
     
  3. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    Love that last
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    I think they could have called it whatever they wanted, cuz honestly these don't really look like any other sneakers I know of :lol:
    But they are probably designed for a more athletic use (if that defines a sneaker I don't know), and they do have flat rubber soles.
    In terms of construction, the full bespoke ones are hand lasted, handsewn welted, and hand stitched. They seem to be designed with a separate cushioned insole.

    I'll post an update on this shoes once I see an actual one.
     
  5. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    My guess is some variations of leather tennis/bowling/casual shoes, i.e., Camper.

    Now you are making me thinking about the viability of JP bespoke in one Asia trip. Just have to layover Tokyo for a day each way.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    I would say more JLP's Winner sneakers. The manager at JLP Jermyn St. store (Mr. Allen?) said in an interview that those Winner sneakers sell five times more in number than dress shoes.

    JLP Winner sneakers go for ¥126,000 yen in Japan. For that price, an MTO handsewn welted Guild sneakers for ¥130,000 seems like a better deal to me.
     
  7. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    That's a much better example. I must have mentally blocks out all JL's sneaker offerings...
     
  8. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Question about Marquese, they said they worked for JL Paris but most of their other out working experiences were with the Brits? Were they with JLP RTW? Or they actually worked in the JL workshop in Paris??

    p.s., would it be safe to assume the Brit experienced makers are capable of handling transactions in English?
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Mr. Kawaguchi apprenticed under Paul Wilson, a British bespoke maker who works for JLP's Bespoke (he also did work for Cleverley). Kawaguchi then worked as an outworker for various bespoke operations (Cleverley, G&G, Foster & Sons, Edward Green) for 5 years. Ever since returning to Japan in 2008, he continues to work as an outworker at the English makers' requests. I assume they ship materials across the continent quite frequently. That's why the output for Marquess is somewhat limited and slow. and yes, I confirmed that he understands English.

    So no I don't think he worked for or at JLP. But his mentor did/does, as far as I know.

    The other half of Marquess, his wife Yuriko, is also quite an accomplished shoemaker, also worked as an outworker in UK. She also worked for an orthopedic shoe manufacture before joining Marquess. She does the patterns, clicking and closing.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013
  10. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    The same Paul Wilson that does JLP bespoke fitting in the US?

    The info is quite interesting and Marquese does make some amazingly done beveled and fiddleback waist!
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    yes, the same one. I think Wilson now mainly works in NYC?
     
  12. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    He travels to California four times a year for bespoke appointments.
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Talking 'bout Guild of Crafts....

    Hong Kong's Apple Daily Online has a News article on Mr.Yamaguchi and his craft (in Chinese). A nice extended biography, for those who can read. There is also a video clip (in Cantonese, sorry)

    Some pictures of the Hong Kong Trunk Show from last month (from Guild web page)

    [​IMG]
    Artful Display

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Looks like he had plenty of media attention

    [​IMG]
    Full page ad on Newspaper

    I wonder if any forum member visited the show...?


    Hong Kong's very own Masaru Okuyama was Yamaguchi's pupil.
     
  14. bamboo

    bamboo Well-Known Member

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    I did not know that they had a trunk show. There is a place which exhibits GOC shoes which is next to the gallery they did a trunk show. They are on the same floor of Armoury. I was wondering what the place was, it does not look like a shop at all. They have watches by independent watch makers, so it is a custom made only boutique or some thing like that?
     
  15. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    hijack this a bit, I will be in Taiwan in mid to late march for probably 2 to 3 weeks, will you be around (probably most in Taipei if not all in Taipei)
     
  16. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    planning trips 11 months ahead. :O
     
  17. clee1982

    clee1982 Well-Known Member

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    haha mis spoken, I meant mid April, or almost late April, probably some time after April 20th
     
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    maaybe early May, but not sure.
     
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Hiro Yanagimachi "Bottom Details"

    Clean and Crisp

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
    hiroyanagimachi.com

    Hiro Yanagimachi MTO starts from ¥150K
     
    2 people like this.
  20. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

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    What a great thread :bigstar: :bigstar: :bigstar:
     

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