1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    

    how much does his bespoke? I really like
     
  2. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    927
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2012
    Location:
    Oslo
    @BespokeMakers :D
     
  3. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    927
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2012
    Location:
    Oslo
    Agree. Looks very good.
     
  4. Macs

    Macs Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    297
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2013
    Location:
    Switzerland
    On his website the price for bespoke is 350.000 - 400.000 JPY for the first pair (with last creation) and 200.000 - 250.000 JPY for any subsequent pair made on the previous last.

    Prices are appealing, but at least three visits to Japan are required (measurements, first trial, final trial).

    Vigevano in definitely a shorter trip for me...
    Even though I do not understand why Mr. Bestetti pricing for bespoke does not involve an higher price for last creation and a subsequent smaller price for shoes made on an existing bespoke last.
     
  5. Pope Paul

    Pope Paul Member

    Messages:
    11
    Joined:
    May 16, 2014
    Hello everyone, new to the forum and just jumped in what can only be the best thread!
    Such nice looking shoes, knew that the Japanese made nice bespoke shoes but seeing all these is really enjoyable!
     
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    :fonz:

    Welcome to Styleforum! Glad you`re enjoying all the shoes on this thread!!
     
  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    200K JPY ($1999 USD) for subsequent pairs~ yes that is a phenomenal price for Bespoke shoes (granted you pay for the initiation fee of 350K first pair)

    from his English website:
    http://www.hiroyanagimachi.com/en/order-system/index.html
     
  8. VRaivio

    VRaivio Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,226
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2011
    Location:
    Finland
    As much as Yanagimachi's prices bring a smile to a shoe fan's face, I can't help but wonder how much he is paying himself at the end of the day. He is known and talented, so the HY workshop could raise their prices already. Artists deserve what they can get.
     
  9. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    Thanks for your comment. Even for me Vigevano is much closer. In fact, I'm going to Bestetti Thursday for my second test of my Gladietor Bespoke. I'll show the pictures on his page.

    He does not make the price difference for a simple reason. If you order a bespoke by him have already included the development and implementation of the shape. And because he wants to keep the forms. And part of his personal library.
     
  10. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    3 Koji Suzuki bespoke samples from his show at The Armoury NYC this past week...his famous double monk, his captoe, and a captoe in croc..and some photos of the soles and waists of the shoes.

    I was very impressed by his work and finishing...his waists are crazy...

    Even on the croc you can see he lined up the scales to make the captoe so it all flows perfectly.

    I honestly was more impressed by his bespoke than by G&G's bespoke which I saw and considered ordering just a few weeks ago.

    His MTO is different tho..the construction, treatment of the waists, and finishing are simply not on the level of Bespoke.

    You could see in his bespoke a lot of the Italian influence that he picked up from Roberto Ugolini...but I found Koji's shoes to be a lot more clean and the details to be a lot more perfect than the samples that I saw in Ugolini's workshop in Florence this past Fall. Koji is all about the details...and everything is taken towards the level of perfection.

    I ordered 2 bespoke pairs from Koji...my first from the Japanese makers...and arguably the best amongst the Japanese. He first investigated my feet with shoes off (felt them, etc.)...had me try on trial shoes in roughly my size to feel my feet in them...then had me stand on the papers and took very detailed measurements for maybe 10-15 minutes while we talked (he had a translator with him)...but he understood most of what I was saying. Then we spoke about the shape of the last (I opted for his long chiseled toe...which I find very elegant as you can see in the photos I have provided)...I may in the future have another last made by him for an almond toe...as his almond is also very beautiful. We talked about the style I would order and I tentatively ordered a double monk with hammered silver buckles and a 5 eyelet split toe derby (this shoe was beautiful and so clean unlike some of the English versions which I find to be very unattractive and too country-ish for my style. He told me though...that I can change the style after the last is perfected if I desire...

    The process is at least one fitting shoe which he will come to New York with and then cut open...but I was advised that it will probably be two fitting shoes before he makes the final pair...and it would take upward of a year...so I can expect delivery in summer/fall of 2015.

    I am thinking about placing a third bespoke order for a monk-loafer that he does (if you know Italian shoes you will know the style I refer too...as it is very popular in Rome). I think this shoe would be very good in a crocodile nubuck.

    I asked Koji how many pairs of bespoke shoes he makes in a year and he told me less than 100.

    If you have any questions about the process, let me know.

    Koji was a pleasure to work with and I eagerly await my first bespoke pairs from him...and already anticipate that we will work together on several more pairs in the future.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2014
    4 people like this.
  11. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,146
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    ^congrats. Is he completing one pair first? Two on the first order is a risky move...
     
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    :slayer:
    Most excellent!! Thanks for sharing us the experience!

    Looks like a long way to go (`til delivery), but keep us updated along the way!!!!
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2014
  13. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    No, I have ordered two and will have them both finished at the same time.

    I don't think its risky...when you have seen his work up-close and personal...you know the end result will be good.

    As far as fit...with two trial shoes...before the final pair...its plenty of time to make sure he gets it right.

    Yes, delivery is a long way...but I am not troubled by this. Koji and his family are clearly very passionate and perfectionists...and they make so few bespoke pairs per year...I am very happy patiently waiting as they take their time to ensure that the shoes are flawlessly crafted.

    And I am dead serious when I say that the Bespoke samples I saw from him were flawless...everything from the sole and waist treatment to hand stitching on the uppers...the lines...everything...done so very carefully with the most minute attention to detail.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2014
    2 people like this.
  14. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,146
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    ^ I've seen the work up close. I think the work is good and I ordered a pair as well yesterday. Is this your first time ordering bespoke? Two on the first go-around is always a mistake. Even if they both turn out well you lose the opportunity for improvement from one to the other. Lobb Paris wouldn't even take the order and I'm actually a little surprised that spigola would. Delivery time doesn't seem bad. I was told he comes back in October for a fitting. I would be surprised if I need a second fitting as no one else has for me, but everyone's foot is different.
     
  15. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    It is my first bespoke...and I'm not too worried...

    If they need improvements...I'll order more.
     
    2 people like this.
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    That`s the right attitude! :fonz:
     
  17. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    927
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2012
    Location:
    Oslo
    

    From what I've seen on pictures I don't think it's possible to be unsatisfied with the esthetics at least. I prefer his more classic designs, but they all have a very specific character.

    Look forward to see the results!
     
  18. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    Very nice choice and a nice post that tells of a great craftsman. Compliments. I can not wait to see new pictures.
     
  19. Tony Montana

    Tony Montana Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    150
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2013
    And you really shouldn't be, imho! When he tells you he might need two pairs of trial shoes then that's obviously because he is a perfectionist and will do anything to get you the best fit possible. Him being among the very best shoemakers in the world (if not actually t h e best...) you can be very sure there won't be any issues.
     
  20. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,146
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    ^Yeah - that is the classic rookie mistake. Just sayin'.

    Anyway, I really like the shoes. I basically walked into the Armoury by chance and while I think I'd heard of Koji Suzuki on this board, I wasn't familiar with his work and didn't know who he was and I ended up ordering a pair. I saw a shoe from across the room and they were painfully beautiful and so obviously bespoke that I was actually a little taken aback to be seeing something like that sitting in my neighborhood. It was pretty cool when I found out that the maker was downstairs.

    What is most striking about Koji's shoes is the line from the front opening above the laces all the way down to the front of the toe. Rather than a gentle slope, you have a sharp drop off a cliff, following by a horizontal line that extends all the way to the toe, then slopes downward again. I wish I had taken an eye-level profile photo as you can't really see if from the photos above, but it is striking. You can get a sense of it from the brown captoe. The bespoke shoes can't be anything other than bespoke. I like that.

    The fitting process was shorter and involved fewer measurements than the other makers I've used, but I don't extrapolate much from that as he might have a more involved fitting process and might just be a great fitter. So it didn't concern me. I found him pulling the tape measure much tighter across my foot than others, which I liked (and I asked for a close fit so that might be why he did it).

    As far as the impossibly fitted waists, I assume that they are just that - impossible, and only for bespoke samples that don't fit any actual foot. If my shoes do come out that fitted, than wow. But I think some of what is done in the samples isn't reflective of what he does for shoes that people wear and is more to show what he theoretically can do (notice the sole above without a back piece of rubber). I thought the finish was really excellent and exactly what you want to see when looking at bespoke samples. Someone in another thread commented that using the tail of the alligator in a bespoke shoe seems like an odd choice but it didn't bother me at all.

    The coolest part of the process was watching Koji draw the shoe on a piece of paper, adding or moving a seam, making little adjustments and asking questions. I had never seen anyone do that before. Particularly given that we didn't speak the same language, I thought it was very reassuring to see my shoe on a piece of paper.

    If they feel as good as they look, I will be very happy.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014
    2 people like this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by