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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    ISETAN JAPAN SENSES 4/9~4/13

    The finale of the annual celebration of Japanese artisans, JAPAN SENSES, kicked off today at the Isetan Department store. 25 or so of the country`s best known artisans gathered for this weekend`s event, giving us a rare opportunity to meet and chat with them. The artisans themselves seemed to have been enjoying the occasion as well, to find time to meet their peers and rivals.

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    Co sponsored by MEN`S EX magazine, the exhibition also featured talk shows with fashionable celebrities

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    Who`s Who from Japan`s tailoring and craftsmaking world have gathered for this event

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    Our favourite shoemaker, Shoji-san from Marquess

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    Takes my breath away, every time I see them

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    I`m starting to really like Marquess`s Classic Round last (the center shoe in ocre calf). The chestnut calf wingtip on the left is on Marquess Round, an equally stunning last.

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    More greating looking Marquess shoes

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    Last shaping demonstration

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    Mr. Yohei Fukuda, checking on the foot measurements.

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    An absolutely stunning Imitation full brogue balmoral oxford in faded black calf. Fukuda-san carefully removes a thin layer of pigment, to reveal the greens, blues, and browns that are the base colors of the black (chrome tanned) leather.

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    Yohei Fukuda`s immaculate silhouette.

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    A newcomer to this year`s show, Mr. Hironori Kamo from Otsuka Shoes.

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    Tools for bottom making

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    Needle sharp tough boar`s hair is the preferred material for outstitching.

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    Like many other Japanese shoemakers, Kamo san`s outstitching is done by eye, without the use of marking wheels. This method allows the maker to use his sense and experience to adjust the pitch where necessary. The toe section is stitched tighter to keep the pitch uniform throughout the shoe.

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    Otsuka`s high end RTW shoes. Fully hand made by the bespoke team. Workmanship is flawless.

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    The extra thin edges, made possible by bevelling the sole, is one of Otsuka`s signature details.

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    A glamorous looking sole.

    The show ends tomorrow! Be there if you can!!
     
  2. PCK1

    PCK1 Well-Known Member

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    That imitation full brogue in bleached black is stunning!!

    Why don't these guys come to the USA????
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful reportage ... really. You always do great work.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    This weekend seems to be particularly `Trunk Show heavy` in Tokyo.
    ISETAN JAPAN SENSES (Isetan),Spigola Bespoke Trunk Show (United Arrows), Miyagi Kogyo Trunk Show (WFG Harajuku), Shoe Republic Bespoke (Rifare Ebisu) etc...

    and then there is the ongoing Foster & Son Tokyo Trunk Show that I dropped by today. The show ends on 4/15

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    Lovely shoes. I especially like the V-front wingtip derby. Very `Foster`-like!

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    and even more lovely, Ms. Emiko Matsuda

    I posted more shoes on the Foster`s thread!!
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  5. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Well-Known Member

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    damn,i have to agree that the girl is more lovely[​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  6. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Well-Known Member

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  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Haha, no they are really old samples. Not many makers could boast a collection of archival grade shoes like Foster, and they were a pleasure to look at. But yeah, some of them looked really beat up, and could use some proper shoe care / repair, IMO :D

    I think Foster bespoke goes for 3000 GBP (2500 GBP minus VAT, or 420K JPY)
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  8. Metroboy

    Metroboy Active Member

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    I would Imagine cause they are very small companys with limited production they dont need to travel to have work to do.
     
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  9. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. But the problem here is that you really don`t know what you are getting - I mean they can `copy` an old classic, but with differences to the materials, finish, and needless to say the artisans, the chances of it coming out like the original is pretty slim IMO. At least with the Japanese makers, you know exactly what you are getting. Ive seen old Lobbs that are breathtakingly beautiful (in their windows), but the modern version I`d never pay that price for, nor even half the price. With a Fukuda et al, you get what you see. And by keeping those shoes in that condition is a turn-off in my opinion - the Japanese would never let any of their work get into that condition. Admittedly, some of these are 30-70 years old, but have never seen a conditioner in that time too. But anyway, enough said, and best kept here, as a study in contrast between the Japanese and British offering. Ten years ago I would not buy British bespoke over Japanese, but thats flipped around.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Foster`s `newer` bespoke samples that I saw weren`t shabby at all. Also, if it means anything, I know there are a couple of Japanese hands involved in the current Foster`s bespoke shoemaking operation :)

    I do dig the visual quality of Foster`s `fading` finish, and I find it`s purpose, which is to artificially make the bespoke shoes look as if it was sitting by the window for decades, to be highly amusing. I wonder if it was a customer, or a shoemaker, that came up with the idea
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  11. Tony Montana

    Tony Montana Well-Known Member

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    Fairly certain Foster&Son get shoemakers like Ryota Hayafuji to make their shoes.
     
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Oh really? I have not heard of that before. Fascinating, but not surprising
     
  13. Tony Montana

    Tony Montana Well-Known Member

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    Depending on their order situation, I suppose, they send away the lasts and uppers to makers like him and receive back the finalised shoes.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    More fun in Tokyo this weekend

    Il Quadrifoglio Bespoke Trunk Show @ World Footwear Gallery Kioicho 4/18~4/20

    A pair of bi-colored croc loafers (and a matching belt) for a lucky customer
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    1 person likes this.
  15. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Well-Known Member

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    This is by far, the best thread in SF!!! Thanks to everyone here for sharing pictures and their experiences!!!

    Wanted to share my latest acquisition of Sanyo Yamacho MTO which I had picked up in Tokyo. It's no spigola or il quadrifiglio by any means, but still quite pleased with the outcome. Finishing is top notch and the leather very very supple!

    As I will be travelling to Japan quite frequently (bi monthly) with my new assignment, I do plan to visit many of the Japanese shoemakers

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    5 people like this.
  16. JayH

    JayH Well-Known Member

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    Lovely shoes, Very dandy model. Complements
     
  17. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Well-Known Member

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    T

    Thanks!!!
     
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    That sounds like a lot of fun :fonz:

    and thnx for sharing! Those are some great looking Yamacho MTO!
     
  19. agedashidofu

    agedashidofu Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!
    Am really looking forward to it myself
     
  20. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Well-Known Member

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    Very elegant model and very nice colors
     

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