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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Main-d'or by Murata Eiji

    Bespoke, Quarter-Brogue Oxford

    [​IMG]
    from LAST issue 03
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    really unbelievable. nice touches.
     
  3. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    Great job nutcracker, thanks.
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Fang!
     
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    I scanned these pics from the past LAST magazine, and took the liberty of translating them.

    Atsuta Koji (Atsuta Kutsuten)

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    A graduate from the Tresham Institute (UK) > worked at Frank Harvey (UK) making custom shoes > hired by Kawamura Prosthetic (Japan) as the chief designer of orthopaedic shoes > most recently worked at Stephano Bemer chiefly as a modelista; before starting his own Bespoke practice in Osaka.

    Last making process:

    Lasts are made completely from scratch, not from a base last or a rough turned stock. Instead, resin casts are made from plaster molds of the client's feet, and shaped accordingly.

    [​IMG]
    Making of a plaster mold

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    The completed mold. Resin are poured into this.

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    Perfect foot imprints in cast foam resin.

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    The cast imprints are shaped, based on his medical/orthopedic knowledge and an aesthetic sense honed at Bemer's workshop

    [​IMG]
    Custom orthopedic insoles are made for those who require.

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    The left one with a deep instep was shaped to accommodate an insole. The right one doesn't. The space between the ball is relatively flat.

    [​IMG]
    Check shoes in plastic resin are made by applying/pasting the resin over the last.

    [​IMG]
    (right) The completed last
    (center) The check-shoes with insoles and mock heels. 1st test fitting.
    (left): Test shoes. The counters are already in. After the final fitting, the shoes are relasted and finished.

    [​IMG]
    The completed pair, and the last made with foam resin.

    [​IMG]
    His only sample shoe adorn the window.

    [​IMG]
    Those living in Osaka are in luck.

    Pictures/text taken from LAST Issue 03.
     
    9 people like this.
  6. kolecho

    kolecho Well-Known Member

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    I scanned these pics from the past LAST magazine, and took the liberty of translating them.

    Atsuta Koji (Atsuta Kutsuten)

    :worship:
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
  7. sstomcat

    sstomcat Well-Known Member

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    Wonderful
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. rikod

    rikod Well-Known Member

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    Dear God
     
  9. rikod

    rikod Well-Known Member

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    Unfair
     
  10. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    +1
     
  11. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    Nutcracker, do you know if any of the RTWs available for export to the US? Also, for the bespoke pairs, how many fittings are necessary, and how much time needed between each fitting? If one visited Japan say twice a year, and stayed one week per visit, would they be able to get a pair sent to them after the second visit?

    Like everyone else, I'm greatly enjoying this thread, by the way. Thank you for your efforts.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    For a bespoke pair, it takes a really long time. Often it takes 2-3 fittings with a trial pair session, one week gap between them is optimistic. Surely, if they might fit your slot if they like you, but it is highly unlikely because even the initial stages such as last making will take more than a week.

    However, some place also does bespoke shoe without fittings, for those it might be quicker, but highly unlikely .
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!! In regards to the RTW shoes, I really don't know, but I highly doubt it. If anything, they would probably want to sell shoes in China. Regal shoes are being sold in many Asian countries including China.

    For smaller RTW companies, like Miyagi Kogyo, I suspect they are willing to export if they can find a dealer who's interested. In fact, there is a store in NYC called Michael Andrews Bespoke that is listed as a dealer of Miyagi Kogyo brand shoes (from the official page).
     
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Many Bespoke makers only do once (assuming they fit ok, and usually at the 2~3 months mark), others do twice or more. Lead time for completion is usually 6 months, busier makers take longer. Rarely do orders require 1 yr or more (like G&G) in Japan.

    For example, Saion's Bespoke takes only 6 months to complete, but requires a total of 5 visits (first visit, first fitting after 2 months, second fitting+taking home the trial shoes at 3-1/2 months, bringing back the trial shoes at 4 months, and finally receiving the completed shoes at 6 months).

    If you plan to visit twice, and choose a maker that does only 1 fitting, then I say technically yes they should be able to send the shoes to you after the fitting. This is assuming your only fitting session came out fine, and you're willing to go through the trouble of shipping the shoes back if you don't like the final product. I also suspect some makers would be apprehensive with the idea, especially for the initial order.

    Many bespoke makers offer full-handmade MTO shoes that requires only initial measuring/fitting with gauge shoes. No fitting session for these order. could be a viable option for you. add911_11 may have been referring to these.

    Believe it or not YOHEI FUKUDA offers MTO shoes w/o fitting session, and made to same standard as bespoke. Priced at ¥273,000+ (vs ¥399,000 for his bespoke). check out his website. The "Classic Collection" and the "Heritage Collection" are all available for MTO. Lead time is still 1 year for them.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    Your analyst is correct. For time conscious customer, it is advisable to go under full handmade MTO route.

    I have yet to try such operation, the full bespoke procedures does take a lot of time.
     
  16. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    Regal really don't belong in this thread. Maybe 10 years ago they might have deserved a place, but their current offerings are terrible, kind of the Florsheim of Japan.
     
  17. TehBunny

    TehBunny Well-Known Member

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    Looked up regal because I didn't know much about them and.......
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Well-Known Member

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    Excuse my ignorance - never heard or seen of RTW Florsheim shoe in real life....

    Who are they comparable to English makers?
     
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Regal makes dress shoes at different price points, and yes I find the styling and quality questionable even in their mid-range shoes.

    But they do offer solid, classic styled dress shoes at a higher price point. Regal Tokyo in Ginza offers them, along with a MTO and a Bespoke service.
    Regal also has a high-end line (split into a separate brand) called Shetland Fox. Their boutique is in Hibiya, but also available in department stores like Isetan.
     
  20. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    I'm posting these again for those who's interested in RTW shoes. From MEN'S EX: World of Hi-end Shoes Vol.5. Please Enjoy!!

    open the pics on another window / tab for higher resolution

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     

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