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Italian CBD

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by CrimsonSox, Feb 8, 2014.

  1. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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  2. carpu65

    carpu65 Well-Known Member

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    Double breasted is a style very popular in Italy for bespoke and in a high profile wardrobe.
    Are many reasons:
    For the first is a type of coat that in Italy is associate with upper class (finance,aristocracy,professionals,landowners).
    Second reason is a type of coat that can work only bespoke,cut by a good tailor ; are not middle ground,or is wonderfull or is horrible
    (and ready to wear double breasted are often horribles).

    So a beautifull double breasted is a message "i belong (or I would like to belong) to upper class/old money.

    More, a double breasted suit well cut is a pleasure; "VESTE LA FIGURA",as we said in Italy ("dress the figure").
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2014
  3. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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    Paolo Graziano, former president of the Association of Neapolitan Industrialist

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  4. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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    Ambrogio Prezioso, current President of the Association of Neapolitan Industrialist:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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    Emanuele Grimaldi co-CEO of Grimaldi Group (Shipping)
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Stugotes

    Stugotes Well-Known Member

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    I love this thread. Even though I also follow the pertinent Tumblr-blogs, this is more interesting due to actual discussion.

    Now, has anyone found out yet who the Brachetti Peretti family tailor is?
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
  7. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    Don't know their tailor, but I did find a few more interesting pics here:

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    And not CBD, but rather cool:

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    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  8. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Well-Known Member

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    That last picture is rather interesting from multiple perspectives. The obvious being the shirt. It's not just red, but also gaudy/garish. The SC + trouser combination would also be frowned upon as they're to close in color/tone as it seems. The SC features elbow patches, which don't have any real function, unless the elbows have been worn out. It would be rather interesting to see what shoes he wears and if there's a relation between them and the elbow patches, given that the latter are a common suede color used for shoes. Moving on to the trousers they're very casual (and an odd denim [?] color) and miss a crease. I'm wondering if the SC features patch pockets? The next general (according to SF) mismatch is the watch. From this angle, the watch itself doesn't seem to be a dress watch, while the black leather strap indicates otherwise. Which in that case wold contradict the rest of the outfit. Also, he seams to wear a brown leather belt, creating another mismatch with the strap of the watch.

    Anyone wearing this outfit and posting it on SF would have to endure some heavy critique. But F.B.P. gets he job done.
     
  9. Stugotes

    Stugotes Well-Known Member

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    Interesting, yes. But actively matching these things? That would be super contrived, even by Italian standards. Same for the watch strap, in my opinion at least.

    Quote:
    I think we'd see the patch pockets' lower outlines.

    I like that outfit/photo very much, though I personally would chose a white (casual) shirt.
     
  10. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Well-Known Member

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    Not saying it's preferable to do so, just that it would be interesting to see whether he did or not. At least, it'd be interesting to know if he wears calf or suede (or something else). As for the watch strap, are you referring to the matching of the watch strap and belt? Personally, I always try to wear watch straps, belts and shoes from the same color family (brown, black, red etc). Doesn't need to be a perfect match (in fact, it never is), but I try to achieve some harmony.

    As for the shirt, I think light blue or navy chambray would be interesting with this outfit. White also, as you suggested.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
  11. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Piero Antinori. The man with the best job in Italy.
     
    2 people like this.
  12. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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    Italian Ivy League?
    Beautiful.
     
  13. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that fit rocks. So does the one with the red shirt.
     
  14. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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  15. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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    Lapo's papa has an interesting preference for bold striped shirts. Not so CBD?

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    Last edited: Oct 29, 2014
  16. carpu65

    carpu65 Well-Known Member

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    Lapo's dad is said wear to Anderson & Sheppard.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. EliodA

    EliodA Well-Known Member

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  18. carpu65

    carpu65 Well-Known Member

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    Lapo wear all.
    Grandfather's suit (some from Huntsman),Rubinacci,Caraceni,Sciamat,and some minor tailors from all Italy.
    I think that in this moment his main tailor is Ribinacci (the cutter of Milan shop).
    Is said that Alain Elkann,and John Elkan are Anderson & Sheppard customers (but i think that they use also other tailors).
     
  19. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Ignore "SF rules." They've evolved into a checklist on how to ensure that you don't fail; the least controversial and most boring solutions. They are not guidelines on how to succeed, and often limit your ability to do so.
     
    4 people like this.
  20. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    This guy's clothes look like shit. Also not a fan of men deciding to have girl eyebrows, while I'm at it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2014

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