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Is this Paul Smith suit appropriate for me?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SFA, Sep 14, 2013.

  1. SFA

    SFA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    123
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto
    So in my multiple attempts to try and get a decent fitting suit, after having tried a samuelsohn MTM option, including a pal zileri (not M2M) with disastrous results, I figured I try this Paul Smith suit and was somewhat surprised. My problem all along has been my prominent behind (you can probably see evident in the picture), but also, my wife is suggesting a shorter jacket is more suited for me. All my current suits have had a) shoulder issues, they are too big as I have generally small shoulders and b) the suit jacket being too long.

    Would be interested to get any thoughts or opinions. Ignoring the sleeve length issue which will be altered, including the little bit of folding around the neck area (I was assured that could be easily fixed), is this an appropriate suit for business wear? Is it too short and should I just walk away?

    I was also told, all the pulling and wrinkling you see on the back as the suit jacket is buttoned is aunavoidable, as a result of my prominent behind.

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  2. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Well-Known Member

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  3. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    19,128
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    Sep 18, 2007
    I like the length of the jacket. The pants look like a good fit in the leg. But the jacket pulls too tight across the back, mid-section and butt. It isn't working. The suit is just the wrong fit.

    Look for another brand that has a similar length jacket but has more room in the seat.
     
  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,543
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    Jul 15, 2009
    

    Belay that order.The current size doesn't fit well, but a size down isn't going to work, especially in the torso (which is already snug)

    I'd recommend looking at a more classically cut suit. Canali will probably work well in that range, but there are many others.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    +1, beat me to it, PSG
     
  6. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

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    No that is dreadful.

    What went wrong with the Samuelson MTM?
     
  7. SFA

    SFA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    123
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto
    Thanks for the replies guys.

    This suit is actually a size 42. The PS salesman told me their suits are very slim, so the option of sizing down to a 40 won't help I don't think.

    This confirms my initial thoughts/reaction that the suit is just NOT appropriate for me. A major issue for me is I have lordosis (or so i think, according to some feedback I got here on the forum). My butt/seat isn't that big (I could loose to a few pounds), but it sticks out due to the curvature of my back. Thus there is all that pulling in the mid-section.

    The Samuelsohn M2M I tried here ended up being a disastor (imo). I initially came into this local store here wearing my Pal Zileri (it isn't a M2M and not Lab, it's the blue label line) which also didn't fit very good. The salesman at the store basically measured me wearing my pal zileri to comission the samuelsohn. So both suits have almost identical problems/issues.

    I've attached the pictures below of the samuelsohn and pal zileri for reference. For now, I'm somewhat defeated in what I can do. I don't have the near knowledge/experience to go bespoke. I might cool off on the initial thought of a purchase until next summer when i can maybe lose a few more pounds and not have my seat stick out so much.

    btw. i trid the Canali at a store, and their suit jackets are just too long. As much as i value my wife's input/thoughts, for some reason she was liking this paul smith due to the length of the jacket. I think, if I can find something (or even request a M2M with a similar lenght) I will be happy.

    Here's the Samuelsohn (the darker suit) and Pal Zileri (the light summer grey suit) for comprasion of what I have.

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  8. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    Sep 18, 2007
    MTM is only as good as the person doing the measuring. From your pics, they simply did a poor job. There isn't anything about your build that can't be accommodated with MTM.
     
  9. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    New York
    

    Absolutely.
     
  10. SFA

    SFA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    123
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto
    Thanks for the replies guys. Without divulging too much information about the store, as I don't want to tarnish their business (I'm just simply not going back to comission another suit from them), they took the samuelsohn measurements using some state of the art electronic measuring tool. I basically stood on a scale thing and the salesman was scaning measurements (again, based on me wearing my Pal Zileri suit).

    Never occured to me that you shouldn't take measurments based on an ill fitting suit. I just didn't have the experience/knowledge or even know about to stop the process all along and let him know that it wasn't going to be good enough. I should have fought harder as I was spending quiet a bit of $.

    The only closest thing for me to getting something fitting me decent is my Coppley M2M (it's my black wedding suit) I got through Harry Rosen. Their prices are inflated, but at this point, seeing how much I wasted on the Pal Zileri (I know it's an OTR.. but it still fits poorly and I wish the salesman then didn't let me walk away with it) and this Samuelsohn from another store, I might as well pay the inflated preimum to atleast get something to fit decently. I will try and get my wife to take pictures of the Coppley to see how it fits.
     
  11. Longmorn

    Longmorn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    240
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2012
    That Samuelsohn M2M is just unacceptable - is there any way you can demand a remake (with someone else taking the measurement) with a real person taking measurements from your body, not an ill-fitting suit? (ridiculous that they would do this in the first place).

    If the length of the Canali jacket was the issue, did you try a 42S?
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2013
  12. othertravel

    othertravel Well-Known Member

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    Return the Samuelsohn. It was their fault, not yours.
     
  13. SFA

    SFA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    123
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2010
    Location:
    Toronto
    

    Unfortunately, it has been a little less than a year since I got this samuelsohn. I just don't think the store I go back to will a) remake this and b) I just don't trust them anymore.. I don't want to be mean spirited, but I should have clued on the fact that the salesman himself masuring me wasn't exactly wearing a properly fitted suit.

    Everything about the samuelsohn M2M process was a dissapointment to me. When the pants came in initially, they were as baggy/billowy as ever which was clearly a mistake. When I came in at that time to try on the initial fit, I requested NEW pants to be made, but was assured the store's inhouse tailor would fix them. I was told Samuelsohn's policy is they no longer take back things for remake (highly questionable).

    This might give me a slight idea to actually email samuelsohn (with those pics attached) to show them my dissapointment. Otherwise, I just chalk it up to a $1300 mistake.

    Unfortunately, here in Toronto we're very limited in selection and getting good quality stuff. All these shops carry themselves as "Bespoke" tailors, but I just don't or can't trust anyone. I think I need more education and knowledge on things like shoulder fit, length of suits, etc..

    I will try to experiment more and try on a 40S or every a 38R in Canalis or even an OTR samuelsohn.
     
  14. othertravel

    othertravel Well-Known Member

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    Feb 9, 2011
    

    Toronto's not that limited. You can get bespoke from Harry Rosen for $3600+ which isn't bad.

    When Harry Rosen does Samuelsohn mtm, they use an actual Samuelsohn suit to determine the properbody and measurements. I think you should take it back or get a partial refund.
     
  15. Big A

    Big A Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2008
    Location:
    At your house, when you're not there
    The Samelsohn can be made infinitely more acceptable (if nowhere near perfect) by doing two things: reducing the waist suppression and changing the cant of the sleeves (i.e., removing and resetting the sleeves so they are turned a few degrees back to better match the angle of your arm)

    The Paul Smith cut just isn't going to fit your build. Try for something cut with a bit less drop from chest to waist and a bit less suppression. If you must buy off the rack, most "American" manufacturers (Ralph Lauren (except black label), the high end Hickey Freeman) are cut a little looser in the waist.

    Go find a good tailor, and the alterations I mentioned should be no problem.
     
  16. Longmorn

    Longmorn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    240
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    Sep 3, 2012
    I can't speak to Samuelsohn's policy, but I can tell you that I ordered a Samuelsohn suit from a store down here in DC in a model they don't usually carry. Measurements taken were accurate, but the model itself didn't match the description in the Samuelsohn catalogue, and the suit didn't fit properly. I politely but firmly pointed out the problems, and the store remade the suit at no cost to me.

    As for Toronto - Harry Rosen has a mix of good and not so great salesmen and tailors. To get a good result, you need to find the right guy. Alternatively, wait for their Samuelsohn MTM event and there should be a rep from the company there to take measurements and give you some advice. You could even take in the other suit and show them what a disaster it is - the store you bought it from is doing no favors to Samuelsohn's reputation.

    Another option for Samuelsohn is Theodore 1922 in the Annex. I bought a suit for a wedding from them in an emergency, and while they lean a bit towards the fashion-forward end of things, you should be able to guide them towards a more classic fit if you're clear with your requirements.
     
  17. westhill

    westhill Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    55
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2013
    SFA,
    You should find a store that has an in-house tailor , so that you aren't being fitted by a shop assistant....whose main
    objective may be to get his hands on your credit card ..
    I go to Mark Marengo on Savile Row, London where the tailor Eric is immediately called over to make an evaluation of the tailoring
    that he needs to do. You can't beat being fitted properly by the person that is going to do the work.

    I don't suggest that you come over to England from Toronto , but just that you look around and see if there is a suit brand
    where you can try on the suits and see the in-house tailor at the same time . Its just not the same to buy the suit and take it to
    a local tailor as your purchase is already "fait accompli" and he can only work around what he is given....

    Of course once you find a brand that you are confident with then its fine to use your own tailor...and build a collaboration.
     

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