1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Is this lapel too low (and old fashioned)?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by pkiula, Jul 29, 2011.

  1. pkiula

    pkiula Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    295
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2009
    Just asking to borrow the trained eye for a second or two.

    I'm thinking of buying this used suit. It doesn't come cheap. Does the lapel seem a bit low compared to the well known makers like Isaia or Zegna?

    I've seen movies from the 70s where the lapels used to be huge and saggy, but can't make out if this suit is one of them -- is it just the manner in which the suit is hung from the hanger that makes it appear like an old suit?

    PS. The seller tells me this is a recent purchase of Brioni...

    [​IMG]

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2011
  2. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,501
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Location:
    The Arena - Centerfield
    The lapels are fine. In future I would like to encourage you to use better lighting when taking photos.
     
  3. pkiula

    pkiula Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    295
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2009
    Thanks MOL. Thats the seller's picture. He insists on sending me dark pics :)

    This is apparently a Paladino 22 Brioni model. I heard these are roomier than the Nomentano?
     
  4. shakattk

    shakattk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    94
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2007
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    I think lapel looks normal.
     
  5. HalfCanvas

    HalfCanvas Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    607
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2007
    This is a pretty classic lapel. It is probably slightly lower than, say, a 2011 Isaia, but Brioni seems to stick with more classic styling. It doesn't look "old fashioned" at all to me though.
     
  6. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,501
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Location:
    The Arena - Centerfield
    

    I have one Brioni suit and one Brioni SC. The jackets on both are roomy in the shoulders but mine are several years old.
    To be truthful I haven't kept up with how Brioni is doing their jackets of late.
     
  7. Gdot

    Gdot Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,248
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2011
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    

    Lapels are within the range of classic. The gorge is a bit lower that many of the very latest styles - but still within the range of classic. The lower quarters appear to be fairly open which is also in keeping with current and classic standards. It's hard to say about cut/baggy - what you really need to know are the measurements of the garment compared to a garment that fits you well.

    And be sure to assess the basic details of the trousers as well - at least make sure the pleat configuration is acceptable to you - everything else can be altered in moderation but pleats are hard to remove and impossible to add (more or less).
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2011
  8. Recoil

    Recoil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,837
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2007
    Location:
    Toronto
    The notch appears to be relatively low when compared with more recent trends. The suit will look like you are wearing a good suit from the 90s. Not necessarily a bad look just not trendy.
     
  9. CH868

    CH868 Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2012
    The gorge looks low because the suit is on the hanger. If the suit were on a mannequin then it would look just fine. I personally like the gorge a bit lower that's why I don't really like Zegna's suits.[​IMG]
     
  10. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,443
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Any second hand garment will be in the style of its day. This does not too bad but...
     
  11. Renault78law

    Renault78law Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,141
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Lapel looks fine, I might be worried that the buttoning point is low...
     
  12. Klobber

    Klobber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,272
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Looks good to me (I would guess this suit would be more recent, i.e. something from around the early - mid 00's. Definitely not 1990's).

    Worry less about trend and more about ensuring you know exactly what you are getting. Brioni are love them or hate them regarding shoulders, I would at the very least research this aspect if I were you. Measurements will not reveal all.
     
  13. Victor Elfo

    Victor Elfo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    537
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    Location:
    São Paulo, Brazil.
    The gorge seems to be fine, the buttoning point maybe a bit low, but do you really need a black suit? Or is it charcoal and the photo is bad exposed?
     
  14. pkiula

    pkiula Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    295
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2009
    Thanks all. I ultimately returned this one. The gorge *and* the button stance were both too low and too, um, "midwest american". I personally prefer Isaia style cuts, also seen on the more recent Zegna Milano or Dunhill (made by Zegna) suits for instance. This Brioni looked like something a mid-life gangster from Godfather would wear. The fabric was fantastic and creamy, but the cut of a suit is as important.
     
  15. JayJay

    JayJay Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    24,364
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2007
    
    Good call. The button stance is too low for contemporary taste.
     
  16. Ivar

    Ivar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    928
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    Yep, the gorge is about one or two inches lower than what I'd consider acceptable.
     
  17. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    You can't really tell until you try it on. The angle of the gorge is sloping more than what you see from Naples but it will look different on you than it does on the hanger. Same goes for the button position.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by