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Indochino suits?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by crease, Jan 4, 2008.

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  1. vandave

    vandave Member

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    19
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    Apr 2, 2011
    I gave Indochino a go last Fall and the fit of my suit was surprising good, almost perfect. To be honest, I think it's a bit better than a M2M Samuelsohn I got recently. I would do it again with a higher quality fabric next time. My only complaint would be that my pull tabs on the pants are tearing a little.

    I had a shirt done at the same time, but the armholes were too tight so I never wear it. In hindsight, I wish I returned it to be remade while I could. I would like to try more of their shirts but it's a bit hard to commit when the first go was a bit off.

    Some of the people posting here have wacky fits and crooked bodies. It's pretty hard to fit people like that. If you have an average build, I think there is a good chance Indochino will work out well for you.
     
  2. JonoGQstyle

    JonoGQstyle Member

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    Feb 9, 2013
    Ok so here are some pics: Indochino Navy Cotton Suit.

    1st order from indochino. The suit and pants are made with 100% cotton which make this suit much heavier compare to wool suits. Suit is a lint magnet for sure, attracts all kinds of lints, not a big issue. I will most likely take the jacket and pants in for alterations. Chest needs to be tighten, sleeves to be shorten, pants to be lengthen and tighten a little. One issue is that the pants seems to wrinkle easily, ie sitting down, getting up seems to wrinkle the pants....or maybe it's just me, as I haven't iron the pants yet.
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    Let me know what you think.....
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2013
  3. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Well-Known Member

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    ...isn't THAT the truth, haha. I didn't know that people could be shaped like some of these guys [​IMG] Let's see pictures of your almost perfect fit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2013
  4. Karl Drogo

    Karl Drogo Active Member

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    Hi all, I'm a new member here at StyleForum. Recently I started reading this thread from the very beginning, and I'm currently about 700 posts of the way in. It's fascinating to read about the company and products back a few years ago with all the inconsistencies, dubious materials, questionable construction, etc. and seeing gradual improvements.

    Anyway, I've been an Indochino customer since spring 2012, first buying an Essential Navy Suit, and most recently a Navy Cotton Suit.

    Here is the Indochino Navy Cotton Suit I recently ordered. Originally it was $299 as part of their Happy Hour sale on Friday January 25, 2013. I bought it then, since the sales typically only last through the weekend. Then the following week, the Chinese New Year sale happened (20% off everything), so I was able to e-mail Indochino and they removed 20% off the price, bringing my cost down to $239.20 before taxes. Wonderful deal.

    I received the package from FedEx on Friday January 8, 2013. That's a two week turnaround time from Indochino, who normally promises four weeks (except when there are major Chinese holidays such as Chinese New Year, in which case the delay is five weeks). When I first became an Indochino customer in spring 2012, their policy was three weeks. So the fact that they beat their normal turnaround times from a year ago astounded me.

    Here are the specifications of the Navy Cotton Suit I ordered in comparison to the Essential Navy Suit I already have from them. I can post photos of the Essential Navy Suit later if anyone is interested. :)

    Navy Cotton Suit
    Jacket Lapels: Notch (Slim)
    Jacket Vents: Two
    Jacket Buttons: Two
    Jacket Lining: Burgundy Bemberg
    Monogram: Yes (my name)
    Monogram Color: Silver Gray
    Monogram Style: Brush Script
    Pants Pleats: None
    Pick Stitching: No
    Slanted Pockets: No
    Waist Pocket: No
    Pocket Flaps: Yes
    Pen Pocket: Yes
    Functional Sleeve Buttonholes: Yes
    Functional Boutonniere: Yes
    Contrasting Buttonholes: Yes
    Suspender Buttons: No
    Belt Loops: Yes
    Side Tabs: No
    Cuffs: No

    The Essential Navy Suit
    Jacket Lapels: Notch (Slim)
    Jacket Vents: Two
    Jacket Buttons: Two
    Jacket Lining: Dark Purple
    Monogram: Yes (my name)
    Monogram Color: Silver Gray
    Monogram Style: Brush Script
    Pants Pleats: None
    Pick Stitching: No
    Slanted Pockets: Yes
    Waist Pocket: No
    Pocket Flaps: No
    Pen Pocket: No
    Functional Sleeve Buttonholes: Yes
    Functional Boutonniere: No
    Suspender Buttons: No
    Belt Loops: Yes
    Side Tabs: No
    Cuffs: No

    Random thoughts:
    -Very comfortable.
    -The heavy duty cotton weighs more than the Essential Navy Suit in wool. Despite this, I'm a very warm-bodied person who generates a lot of heat, so I could really feel like my temperature was regulated well in this cotton suit (ie- I stay cool wearing it). It would be fantastic to wear in the summer (summer weddings included). I can see myself wearing this a lot more than I would have imagined for a warm-weather suit.
    -I initially didn't like the look of the lighter-coloured buttons when I was placing my order, but I grew to appreciate them in person. I already have dark buttons on the Essential Navy Suit, so this is just one extra thing to set them apart.
    -The cotton material attracts more particles than wool.
    -I will have to research how to take care of a cotton suit, having never owned one before.
    -Cotton isn't as wrinkle-resistant as wool, but I knew this already when I ordered it.
    -I think the fit is great, but I will leave it up to the keen-eyed experts.
    -The now-standard Bemberg lining is less lustrous than the linings (polyester?) used in their previous offerings, but is supposed to be an increase in quality as Indochino recently is really stepping up their game to use well-respected materials (including BWF collar felts). To think how far they've come from 2009 or so when some of their suits actually had polyester or poly/wool blends.

    Anyway, here are the photos I just took. Constructive critique welcomed and encouraged. I'm wearing:

    -Indochino Navy Cotton Suit (http://www.indochino.com/product/Navy-Cotton-Suit)
    -Indochino Light Blue Essential Wrinkle-Free Shirt (http://www.indochino.com/product/Light-Blue-Essential-WrinkleFree-Shirt)
    -www.TheTieBar.com Jet Stripe Blue Skinny Tie (http://www.thetiebar.com/order_page...ormSubmit.x=0&btnTemplateSearchFormSubmit.y=0)
    -Coach black full grain leather belt with brass buckle

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    Last edited: Feb 10, 2013
  5. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Well-Known Member

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    The collar needs fixing, the shoulders are flawed, and the jacket is too short. Despite that, it doesn't look bad (for casual use only). Nice-looking color and fabric.
     
  6. Simon at Elite

    Simon at Elite Well-Known Member

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    Dec 3, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney , Australia
    The jacket is an inch or two shorter then standard but slightly shorter jackets are in fashion at the moment

    Did you press the jacket before the photos? The collar isn't sitting properly but a good press may solve it.

    I don't think the shoulders are flawed. I think the problem is that you carry your arms forward quite considerably. In all the photos your arms seem to be held at a 30 degree forward angle. This is an exceptionally large angle even for an "arms forward" body. Accordingly it's causing the sleeves to pull at the back and pulling the shoulders slightly askew. You need to have the sleeves rotated and keep this in mind for future purchases.

    I'd also remeasure your crotch measurements. Perhaps measuring a good fitting pair of dress pants

    Overall though not a bad effort for your second go. You're definitely getting there. Just a few more tweaks
     
  7. vandave

    vandave Member

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    19
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    Apr 2, 2011
    [​IMG]

    FYI... I am not wearing shoes, so the pants are bunched up below my knees.
     
  8. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Well-Known Member

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    Sep 15, 2012
    Quote:
    Those are the criticisms that I was going to make. The shoulders look a bit too wide and bunched up. The jacket covers your butt, but it still looks short. You've got collar gap. The sleeves are also a bit too short.

    All in all, the jacket doesn't look bad. It fits better than most of the suits that I see in everyday life.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013
  9. Karl Drogo

    Karl Drogo Active Member

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    Feb 10, 2013
    Thanks. What is it about the collar that needs fixing specifically? Collar gap as the gents below also suggested? How are the shoulders flawed specifically? Too wide and bunched up like the guys below also suggested? I'm still pretty new to suits; I greatly appreciate all input but would benefit from deeper analysis please. You've told me what's wrong (which is fantastic) but I also need to be told what's right. :)
    If it's too short, do you guys suggest a remake? I haven't pressed anything; I received the package on Friday night and then let it hang in my closet to relax until the Sunday afternoon I took those photos. Now that I look at my photos, I never realized how forward my arms are. It was entirely unconscious and natural to hang my arms in that forward position. I even stood up as I was typing this paragraph to verify that, indeed, my arms don't hang straight down unless I really roll my shoulders back (bringing my shoulder blades together). So what the camera captured, for better or for worse, was my "natural" position. I'm not sure there is a shoulder rotation option on the Indochino alterations form: http://www.indochino.com/download/Alterations_form.pdf However there is a space for comments; perhaps that would be the best area to write down a rotation of 30 degrees forward for a remake? What is it about the crotch? The pants are slim (as are the pants on my Essential Navy Suit, which my tailor said was perfect and I never tweaked from then on) and I have good mobility. I will also admit, quite willingly so, that I am not extremely well-endowed. :lol: So my package doesn't really seem to factor much into the equation. Just something to consider. :lol: Strangely enough, for my second go, even though I didn't tweak anything between taking ownership of my Essential Navy Suit and this Navy Cotton Suit, the jacket fits differently, particularly the way the tail looks. It didn't hang quite as straight before. Here's a photo of the Essential Navy Suit for comparison, but in real life the flap hangs a bit straighter than the photo suggests: [​IMG]
    Regarding the collar gap, I am not sure why collar gap shows up on the final photo of the series but doesn't seem to appear on the other ten photos... or is my eye just not trained enough yet? I'm genuinely confused. If I do get a remake, if only for the sleeves (which do look a tad short), by how much would you recommend I shorten? Thank you all for your generous feedback and I look forward to any further constructive criticism. :) EDIT - I should also disclose that I visited an Indochino Traveling Tailor to be measured by them and buy my first suit (Essential Navy Suit) in spring 2012. I was one of the ones who escaped self-measuring and the self-worry that comes with that.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013
  10. toshin

    toshin Member

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    15
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    Aug 2, 2009
    

    Looks pretty good mate! Love the colour.
    As others said, the sleeves look a little short is about the only thing i notice. Even the length while technically a tad short, looks perfect on you imo.

    Damn now i'm regretting not getting the slim notch, being of a similar build as you. I just kept reading that the lapels are slim enough already.
    I'll be happy if mine turns out anything close to your fit to be honest.
     
  11. Karl Drogo

    Karl Drogo Active Member

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    37
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    Feb 10, 2013
    With everybody's constructive feedback and sharp eye in mind, this morning I e-mailed Indochino for style advice and included all the photos of me wearing the Navy Cotton Suit. They replied in a very detailed fashion within three hours! I am continually impressed by their customer service.

    Here's the e-mail I wrote to them (abridged):

    And here is their informative and timely reply!

    Looks like the most major thing that cannot be altered is rotation of the shoulder/sleeves to accommodate for the fact that my arms naturally hang forward. Perhaps I can compensate by adjusting my posture and the way I stand and being conscious of where in space I am placing my arms/hands. But at least I can measure and alter everything else, I imagine.

    My trouble is that I've also got an Essential Charcoal Suit and Supervisor Black & Blue Pinstriped Shirt currently in production, which I had ordered during the 2013 Chinese New Year sale (my third Indochino purchase). With their digital cutting process, I would imagine this charcoal suit will turn out exactly the same way as this flawed Navy Cotton Suit, which will also warrant a remake. I kinda feel bad for them since I'm clearly eating up their precious resources, and feeling bad for myself in that I keep learning more and more about suits every day, resulting in me feeling less and less satisfied with previous purchases as the glaring flaws stand out and I have to fine-tune them for future purchases.

    Question for all as I work myself through reading every post of this giant thread: How many iterations (remakes or separate purchases) did it take you guys until you arrived at "perfection"? Hopefully for me, third time's the charm.

    Thanks again for the valuable insight and discussion. Still learning a lot and hope to refine myself.

    EDIT - Within minutes of me expressing my concern (via e-mail) for the Essential Charcoal Suit and Supervisor Pinstriped Shirt order currently in production, Indochino replied that they're freezing production until we can sort out the Navy Cotton Suit issues and confirm that the fit is fine. WONDERFUL! :) I cannot sing my ongoing praises for Indochino customer support enough.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  12. Mr Engineer

    Mr Engineer Well-Known Member

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    Rhode Island
    blazer selection is weak`
     
  13. Chris Raynore

    Chris Raynore New Member

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    Feb 14, 2013
    My first IC suit came in yesterday. I'm very pleased with it out of the box. It fits comfortably, and the color is great. My only alterations will be to let the sleeves and pants out 1 inch as both are a little short. Other than that I think I lucked out. Shoulders look good, right sleeve was wrinkled from in the box. Crotch fits snug but wanted a more modern look and can deal with the jacket being .5 inch short. The material feels a bit on the thin side so I doubt it'd be good for but a 3 season suit. Mine is the Charcoal essential finished off with a perfect fitting Blank Label MTM (just wrinkled and grabbed off the floor) and a pair of Johnston & Murphy's. Sorry for the dirty mirror, and the second pic shows the color better than in my closet.


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  14. LorenzL

    LorenzL Well-Known Member

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    Looks pretty good I think - the shoulders are fine, which is already an important thing. Somehow, it looks a bit weird around the belly area - can it be you need more waist suppression? Hard to tell, but somehow that area could be improved in my opinion. Probably nothing a local tailor can't fix.
     
  15. Simon at Elite

    Simon at Elite Well-Known Member

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    Quote:
     
  16. Karl Drogo

    Karl Drogo Active Member

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    That was an awesome and informative reply. As I'm sill learning a lot about suits, the information you revealed was enlightening. Many thanks. :)

    Regarding collar gap, I had a thought and made some observations. I think the SHIRT COLLAR is just as much to blame as the JACKET LAPEL. As you can see in the photos I posted of myself, I selected Indochino's medium point collar, which is probably their most versatile and well-rounded option. So you would expect their suits lapels to, well, follow suit based on this oft-ordered collar style. ;) And yet there's pronounced collar gap.

    Now, having done some photo hunting, it seems that small collars will easily fall pray to collar gap, and no jacket will be able to complement the lines of the collar.

    Here's a nice example of a very small shirt collar that results in huge collar gap:

    [​IMG]

    There's just nothing a jacket can do to save that shirt collar.

    Don't we need longer/broader shirt collar "wings" that actually reach out and kiss the edges of the suit lapels? Indochino does offer smaller collar options but those will be even more guilty of collar gap than their more traditional collar styles! And with button-down collars pinning down the shirt collar "wings", they won't come anywhere close to kissing the jacket lapel and following the lines!
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  17. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Well-Known Member

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    I think that you may have the wrong idea of what "collar gap" means. It's the space between an ill-fitting jacket collar and a shirt collar. It's not the space between the shirt collar points and the jacket lapels.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Karl Drogo

    Karl Drogo Active Member

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    Am I getting the wrong impression? I learned about "collar gap" from the following link: http://putthison.com/post/7215023321/collar-gaps-shoulder-divots-an-explanation

    The photo of Kanye West shows what that author is calling "collar gap".

    What would be the technical term for the "space between the shirt collar points and jacket lapels"? And is that space a severe issue or is it acceptable?
     
  19. LorenzL

    LorenzL Well-Known Member

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    Collar gap describes the distance between the jacket collar and the shirt collar on your neck - like in that photo of Tom Ford above. It's most noticeable on photos that are taking at a side angle. The photo you showed doesn't really show a collar gap. It's just small, rather narrow shirt collar with a skinny tie and what seems like a narrow shawl collar. Not necessarily a bad look and I can't really see a collar gap there.

    The link you quoted above is interesting, one of the photos used is from Indochino's website. Actually, the collar gap is not that visible on the model for me, but the pulling around the top button is something you will often see on Indochino's models.

    Edit: On West's suit there is a collar gap (maybe due to his posture on the pic), but it's not the same as on the photo you posted. It's not the distance between the point of the collar to the lapel, but the space as described above.

    Edit 2: What VinnyMac said.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2013
  20. nautikal

    nautikal Well-Known Member

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    From that article:

     
    1 person likes this.

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