1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Aug 1, 2012.

  1. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    -a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold
    -mid gray flannel pants
    -decent, non-chino khakis
    -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket
    -a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit
    -a navy worsted single breasted suit
    -a white FC shirt
    -several blue BC shirts, at least one BD
    -black stitch caps
    -some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you)
    -loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shell
    -a solid black tie, knit or grenadine
    -a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine
    -a plain white linen hanky

    For the "more advanced" players:
    -at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both)
    -at least one linen suit
    -at least one pair of brown suede shoes
    -at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check
    -at least one wool or cashmere tie
    -at least one linen or linen blend tie

    If necessary
    -A complete, well-fitting, correct black tie rig, including shoes
    -An overcoat in navy, charcoal or camel
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
    18 people like this.
  2. porcelain monkey

    porcelain monkey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2008
    Location:
    Boston
    Rock on, Manton! SF has been great for the last week!

    I have struggled finding "decent non-chino khakis." Could you be more specific about what you think is best in this area?
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Well, I am a bespoke customer so obviously I am going to say that. In the past I have really liked Polo RL ready to wear pants. I have not bought any new ones in ages but I still wear several very old pairs. I think they are decently made and very well styled.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,793
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    I so fail.
     
    4 people like this.
  5. Liquidus

    Liquidus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,653
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2009
    Location:
    San Francisco, California
    Are flannel pants really necessary? I bought a couple from Howard Yount and realized that I much prefer the smooth finish of a worsted wool that can also hold a crease. What are "non-chino" khakis?
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. globetrotter

    globetrotter Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,605
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    greater chicago
    everything but the tweed and the brown shoes. unfortunatly, I think this is not suffietient to make me well dressed. just to check off the list.

    I do have a gumby tie, though, which somehow you forgot to put on your list.

    keep the good stuff coming, Manton.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    
    Gray flannels are absolutely necessary. They look infinitely better than worsted with most odd jackets. Worsteds have a business connotation.

    Non chino just means, not like those sweatshop-made wrinkly things i wear on weekends and that I would never wear with a tie.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    
    If it helps, you are the best dressed person I know who does not own everything on this list.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    

    Thread title makes no sense. The contents of your closet are a state of being while being well-dressed or not captures a moment in time. I think this is meant to be a list of must-haves for the 'advanced".
    Comments below:

    -a blue odd jacket. If you iive in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold: Got these, but I never wear the winter one (but I have two different summer ones)

    -mid gray flannel pants: Check

    -decent, non-chino khakis: I don't understand what this means - do you mean non-cotton; I do have a pair of tan whipcords so I will assume I can check this.

    -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket: I am sure I have enough non-tweed jackets that one of them would be considered tasteful

    -a mid to dark gray single-breasted suit: yes if you count flannel

    -a navy single breasted suit: Yes if you count rough hopsack (dormeuil sportex) with patch pockets and brown buttons; may not be what you had in mind. I have an older one that is a bit shiny but it has peak lapels and hacking pockets and is probably not what you had in mind.

    -a white FC shirt: Check

    -several blue BC shirts, at least one BD: partial credit - plenty of blue, but no bluc OCBD

    -black stitch caps: partial credit. Mine are blucher (sorry, but that is all Alden makes on the modified last). On the other hand, I have bespoke stitch cap balmoral boots

    -some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you): Check

    -loafers in medium brown or burg shell: both

    -a solid black tie, knit or grenadine: grenadine

    -a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine: grenadine

    -a plain white linen hanky: check

    For the "more advanced" players:
    -at least one DB suit, navy is best; medium gray flannel is next: Both, but I shouldn't double count my gray flannel, right?

    -at least one linen suit; check

    -at least one pair of brown suede shoes: check

    -at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check: plenty of formal ties, but not sure if I have this exact one

    -at least one wool or cashmere tie: check

    -at least one linen or linen blend tie: check

    Here is what I would add.
    Overcoat in blue, black or camel.
    topcoat in tweed
    raincoat - SB or trench
    one chalkstripe suit - navy or gray; bonus points for DB
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  10. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,898
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2010
    

    My tally is above...
     
  11. globetrotter

    globetrotter Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,605
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    greater chicago
    

    again, everything but the tweed. I guess I need some tweed
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Jackie Treehorn

    Jackie Treehorn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    558
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2012
    Location:
    sTeALiN yO cAr
    This is a good threak, Manton.

    That said, the well-dressed man should own a bespoke codpiece, custom-fitted by a master codpiecesman. Its absence from your list is troubling, to say the least. Shall I assume you walk the streets unbecodpieced? I shudder at the thought.
     
    5 people like this.
  13. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Foo, you probably come out OK:

    You don't have a blazer but you do that have blue donegal which is close enough.
    Maybe you don't have khakis?
    Shoes of course are another matter but you have black oxfords, though punch cap, which is close enough.
    The one shoe can do the work of the loafters, though your lack of any summer shoe is a problem
    Ditto re: the brown oxfords
    You must have a solid navy tie???
    probably no black tie and no white hank, though

    The rest of the top list you have.

    As to the bottom, check on the DB gray flannel
    No on the linen suit but that's just because you haven't gotten around to it yet
    I realize brown suede shoes will never happen
    I know you have a formal tie
    Surely you have at least one wool/cash and one linen tie?
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  14. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    
    1) Scrub black and I agree
    2) Really, not even necssary for the advanced. Purely discretionary.
    3) yes
    4) I think this one is discretionary too.
     
  15. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    
    You are right on (1), probably should have written charcoal instead of black. In any event, I don't have black or gray - mine are blue and camel.
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    My OC's are navy DB and camel polo. If I get another, it will be fawn covert DB. Then done.
     
  17. RogerC

    RogerC Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,057
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Oxon, UK
    Where do blue odd jackets and non-blue tweed jackets intersect? For example, there's a quite nice worsted alsport blue herringbone that I had been thinking about turning into an odd jacket for general informal and office (academia) purposes. I must say I do own a blue tweed jacket, although in my defence, it's a sky blue (the recent London Lounge shetland).
     
  18. hpreston

    hpreston Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    287
    Joined:
    May 10, 2011
    Great Thread!


    My tally, and I would not have thought about many these essentials if it were not for the SF. (I do not like loafers)


    I think something like Incotex or RL would work here, or possibly some of the nicer finished cotton trousers from J Crew.


    Agree with the assesment of the title.


    Totally agree with the necessity of flannel trousers. I ended up with two shades of gray and a blue flannel from HY.

    For the non-chino khakis, again, I think were talking about tan colored cotton trousers with a smooth finish like Incotex.
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    20,793
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    1. A blue odd jacket. If you iive in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold. Check and check, though my warm weather one is double breasted, 4x1.
    2. Mid-gray flannel pants. Nope. Light grey only.
    3. Decent, non-chino khakis. Nope.
    4. At least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket. Check, times a million.
    5. A mid to dark gray single-breasted suit. Check. Charcoal one I wore to my wedding. 12oz. Harrison's Fine Classics.
    6. A navy single breasted suit. Check. Navy hopsack.
    7. A white FC shirt. Check. Worn maybe three times in five years.
    8. Several blue BC shirts, at least one BD. Hahaha. SOMANYCHECK.
    9. Black stitch caps. Technically no, but I'm giving myself a Check anyway, because Philip II punch caps are superior.
    10. Some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you). Technically Check, because I own them. But they might as well not exist.
    11. Loafers in medium brown or burg shell. Nope. Will never happen.
    12. Solid black tie, knit or grenadine. Nope, and no plans for one.
    13. A solid navy tie, knit or grenadine. Nope.
    14. A plain white linen hanky. Check.

    Normal Score: 9 for 14

    For the "more advanced" players:
    1. At least one DB suit, navy is best; medium gray flannel is next. Check.
    2. At least one linen suit. Nope. One day.
    3. At least one pair of brown suede shoes. Nope. OneShoe is my one shoe.
    4. At least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check. Check.
    5. At least one wool or cashmere tie. Check.
    6. At least one linen or linen blend tie. Nope.

    Advanced Score: 3 for 6
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012
  20. Balfour

    Balfour Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    575
    Joined:
    May 27, 2012
    Location:
    Mid-Atlantic
    I've edited out the things I have and left in the things I have queries about.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by