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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. mlyngard

    mlyngard Well-Known Member

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    I'm not angry, I'm from Philly
    So this is my first time posting to this forum so please forgive me if I'm making a mistake posting my question here.

    I've been rocking Levi's capital E matchsticks since they started coming out and have noticed a discrepancy in the materials used in the new and old fits/washes.

    I.e. I purchased a pair of matchsticks in the Dark Worn wash more than a couple years ago and they were 100% cotton. However, I recently bought the same wash and i was surprised (and tad disappointed) to find that they are 98% cotton and 2% elastane. I copped them anyway, got them hemmed and rock them. They do feel a bit more comfortable and flexible due to elastane.
    .


    You pretty much answered your question. Those jeans are designed to be worn skin-tight and not washed often to capitalize on the 'raw' jeans/no wash trend.

    Raw all-cotton jeans are stiff and uncomfortable to many, and they stretch like crazy when worn that tight. Elastine/lycra solves both problems.

    That fabric composition change is clearly due to Levis getting lots of complaints.
     
  2. Jakmat

    Jakmat Member

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    Jan 3, 2010
    That's nice looking denim. My taste runs to slimmer fits, but those look okay on you. Don't upsize, let those stretch out. Also, if you haven't soaked yet, do now. Then wear them for a while. The true nature of a fit will take a week or two to reveal itself.

    Never pass final judgement on the fit of raw jeans when they're new. Unless you have some time in a few pairs.



    As a fellow rider (Ducs/Triumphs), I'd say APC are as good as any raw denim for riding. APC is about 14oz denim. Thicker denim (15-21 oz) will obviously give slightly better protection. As a new rider keep in mind that denim's abrasion resistance is on the level of tissue paper if you go down over 20mph.

    Also keep in mind that all raw denim will be slightly uncomfortable in the first few weeks, and that may be exaggerated around the knees and hips in a riding position (depends on bike of course).

    Suggest not cuffing when riding a motorbike. Cuff will catch on rearsets and shift/brake levers.

    All raw jean inseams are sized with the intention that most will be hemmed. Soak those in warm/hot water to take care of shrink then send to SelfEdge or Blue in Green for a proper chainstitch hem job, or to a local tailor to match the non-chainstitch hem you have.

    Trust me on the soak part. If you don't soak first, allow an inch for the shrinkage when you hem.


    By soaking do you mean just leaving them in a bath of hot water over night, then wearing them while wet to stretch out?
     
  3. mlyngard

    mlyngard Well-Known Member

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    I'm not angry, I'm from Philly
    By soaking do you mean just leaving them in a bath of hot water over night, then wearing them while wet to stretch out?

    1/2 hour to an hour hot soak in the bath. Then hang them until dry. APC don't shrink very much, so no need for anything drastic like wearing them wet, as you might with real shrink-to-fit jeans.

    You'll see about 1/2" waist shrink and 1/2" - 1" in the inseam.
     
  4. whitekimchee

    whitekimchee Well-Known Member

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    I see but since these newer matchsticks have elastane, would they stretch out more as opposed to the 100% cotton ones? I've only owned Levi's that were 100% cotton so I'm wary of anything that says "stretch."
     
  5. mlyngard

    mlyngard Well-Known Member

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    I see but since these newer matchsticks have elastane, would they stretch out more as opposed to the 100% cotton ones? I've only owned Levi's that were 100% cotton so I'm wary of anything that says "stretch."

    The elastene keeps the fabric more elastic and they'll retain their shape longer without sagging/stretch.

    Blending synthetic stretch fibers like lycra with wool or cotton is a relatively new technology. Tough to know how those will wear. I agree with being wary. if it was that good, it'd be everywhere, right? I think Levis had to compromise slightly on the fabric blend for that type of fit. I wouldn't sweat it.
     
  6. Whiskey

    Whiskey Well-Known Member

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    I have a black pair of JV (Bowery) jeans that are 60% cotton and 40% polyester. Do I have to take shrinkage into consideration when getting them hemmed?
     
  7. KitAkira

    KitAkira Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys, I'm new to quality denim but I started riding a motorcycle this year and figure I can splurge on better made jeans. I'm a 28x28 leg, looking for some nice, strong denim that will fit right. I know APC and Nudie have some smaller waists, but I was worrying about the inseams. Can I just Hem them if they are too long? Any suggestions appreciated. I ride a motorcycle most days and the tougher the jeans, the better!
    Hemming is the easiest alteration to do, although you're probably going to want a 30 or 32 instead (jeans look terrible if there's no break to the fabric, stacking up to 4 extra inches is where it's at, or cuff, just don't wear jeans the same length as your dress trousers). That being said, Ironhearts will be the go-to for super heavyweight motorcycle-proven denim (there was a thread posted a while back about a guy who had an accident and came out unscathed.
    So this is my first time posting to this forum so please forgive me if I'm making a mistake posting my question here. I've been rocking Levi's capital E matchsticks since they started coming out and have noticed a discrepancy in the materials used in the new and old fits/washes. I.e. I purchased a pair of matchsticks in the Dark Worn wash more than a couple years ago and they were 100% cotton. However, I recently bought the same wash and i was surprised (and tad disappointed) to find that they are 98% cotton and 2% elastane. I copped them anyway, got them hemmed and rock them. They do feel a bit more comfortable and flexible due to elastane. What I do wanna know is why did Levi's bother changing the materials used and will it stretch out significantly after a year or two? I don't wash my jeans and I get them dry cleaned maybe a max of 3 or 4 times a year (yeah i kno sounds nasty but I don't wanna compromise the integrity of the jeans by washing them too much). I also don't understand why the leg openings vary in size. I purchased a pair of dolphin rinse matchsticks and found that they pretty much have the same specs as the dark worns. However, other washes that I have a slightly larger leg opening which irks me.
    Uh, pretty sure those aren't raw so why are you going through so much trouble?
     
  8. danger

    danger Member

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    Jan 5, 2010
    Hemming is the easiest alteration to do, although you're probably going to want a 30 or 32 instead (jeans look terrible if there's no break to the fabric, stacking up to 4 extra inches is where it's at, or cuff, just don't wear jeans the same length as your dress trousers). That being said, Ironhearts will be the go-to for super heavyweight motorcycle-proven denim (there was a thread posted a while back about a guy who had an accident and came out unscathed.?

    You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar
    Just looked Iron Heart up and it's legit. Looks like Self Edge distributes in the US. Just need to find a good style and my size.
     
  9. whitekimchee

    whitekimchee Well-Known Member

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    It's not a question that revolves around the jeans being raw or not. It contains elastane which I am not familiar with and I'm concerned that it will stretch and sag more than a pair of matchsticks that are 100% cotton.
     
  10. TotesMcGotes

    TotesMcGotes Well-Known Member

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    Austin, TX
    I need to restarch my N&F, should I just have the dry cleaners do it or someone with a little more experience?
     
  11. KitAkira

    KitAkira Well-Known Member

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    It's not a question that revolves around the jeans being raw or not. It contains elastane which I am not familiar with and I'm concerned that it will stretch and sag more than a pair of matchsticks that are 100% cotton.
    I don't wash my jeans and I get them dry cleaned maybe a max of 3 or 4 times a year (yeah i kno sounds nasty but I don't wanna compromise the integrity of the jeans by washing them too much). I also don't understand why the leg openings vary in size. I purchased a pair of dolphin rinse matchsticks and found that they pretty much have the same specs as the dark worns. However, other washes that I have a slightly larger leg opening which irks me.
    I reiterate, why are you going through so much trouble?
     
  12. whitekimchee

    whitekimchee Well-Known Member

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    Brooklyn, NY
    cuz I'm OCD about the fit of my jeans and if I'm gonna drop a $150 or more than I want my jeans to maintain it's shape for as long as possible.
     
  13. KitAkira

    KitAkira Well-Known Member

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    That's what the elastane is for
     
  14. mlyngard

    mlyngard Well-Known Member

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    I'm not angry, I'm from Philly
    You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar Just looked Iron Heart up and it's legit. Looks like Self Edge distributes in the US. Just need to find a good style and my size.
    Iron Heart is immersed in Japanese biker/chopper legacy. It's all about bikes for those guys. Check out Kiya's pics in the SelfEdge thread here (when he visited the Iron Heart factory). Awesome! And I detest Harleys and their breed usually.
    I need to restarch my N&F, should I just have the dry cleaners do it or someone with a little more experience?
    Don't. Waste of time. Tried it. Nothing gained. Otherwise, get Niagra heavy duty spray starch at the grocery store and go to town.
     
  15. TotesMcGotes

    TotesMcGotes Well-Known Member

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    Austin, TX
    Don't. Waste of time. Tried it. Nothing gained.

    Otherwise, get Niagra heavy duty spray starch at the grocery store and go to town.


    Okay well i guess my real question is... I bought some N&F Slimguys from a member here and they had been washed once. Is there anything I can/should do to help them begin the fading, honeycombs, etc...
    I guess my real question is, Should i do anything or just wear them and hope they fade nicely?
     
  16. theom-

    theom- Well-Known Member

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  17. mlyngard

    mlyngard Well-Known Member

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    wear them.
    Really, it's true. There's more reasons why than we can explain here, but good denim thrives on being worn hard and being soaked from time to time. You really get higher contrast fades by not using a washing machine for a few months, not from starch. Your creasing will bed-in if the fit is right (snug-ish) and you wear them often. Wearing them in the rain, is, ironically, a better way to fade them than to use starch. Edit: you know how a soft, light linen shirt or jacket gets all creasy from wear? There's no starch on that. That's your goal.
     
  18. TotesMcGotes

    TotesMcGotes Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for that. I will just wear them for a good while and see how it goes.
     
  19. ConcernedParent

    ConcernedParent Well-Known Member

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    West Coast is back for all you suckas
    Okay well i guess my real question is... I bought some N&F Slimguys from a member here and they had been washed once. Is there anything I can/should do to help them begin the fading, honeycombs, etc...
    I guess my real question is, Should i do anything or just wear them and hope they fade nicely?


    I starch my stacks after I wash so they retain their shape. Otherwise, just wear em.
     
  20. zzzzzard

    zzzzzard Active Member

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    Dec 22, 2009
    What is the full extent to which jeans can be tailored? If the waist fits me, can the legs be taken in to whatever I need?

    I ask this because I have emaciated legs and it is very difficult for me to buy jeans that fit me.
     

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