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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. jarude

    jarude Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 15, 2008
    KMW 1980 or Skull 5507?

    5'11", 180lb, 34 waist and an ass from squatting.
     
  2. Babaloo

    Babaloo Member

    Messages:
    16
    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2009
    I'm looking to get a pair of raw indigo Nom De Guerre classic fits - anybody have any experience with the sizing (I know they only come in even sizes) and any idea of where I can get a pair this season? All of the usual retailers that I've contacted won't be carrying the denim - does the NDG store in NYC ship out? Thanks!
     
  3. Fat-Elvis

    Fat-Elvis Well-Known Member

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    Nov 10, 2006
  4. aqhong

    aqhong Well-Known Member

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    Oct 11, 2008
    Question about Levis 514s. What's the difference between these two: http://us.levi.com/product/index.jsp...146854.3691994 http://us.levi.com/product/index.jsp...146854.3691994 The imprint looks like they're raws, but the other one is "Rigid", and I thought that means the same thing as "raw". But it looks like the Imprints are the ones I'd be interested in getting. Has anyone had any experience with these? Do you need to size up like you do with 501 STFs?
    Both are raw, or close to it. The "Tumbled" in Tumbled Rigid suggests some type of treatment, so they might not be raw in the purest sense, but they're as close to it as you'll get with Levi's short of 501 STFs. "Imprint" is a new line made of denim that supposedly fades more quickly than typical raw denim. Neither are unsanforized/shrink-to-fit, so you don't need to size up or soak before wearing.
     
  5. Rosenberg

    Rosenberg Well-Known Member

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    Sep 15, 2009
    Location:
    TX
    KMW 1980 or Skull 5507?

    5'11", 180lb, 34 waist and an ass from squatting.


    1980's. all the skulls have too much taper if you ask me. i'm 5'9" 165 or so and lift 6 days a week and i think the skulls would look odd on me even though the thigh would fit. if you have really shoulders the skulls might work but otherwise kmw all the way
     
  6. mlyngard

    mlyngard Well-Known Member

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    Aug 10, 2009
    Location:
    I'm not angry, I'm from Philly
    KMW 1980 or Skull 5507?

    5'11", 180lb, 34 waist and an ass from squatting.


    1980's. all the skulls have too much taper if you ask me. i'm 5'9" 165 or so and lift 6 days a week and i think the skulls would look odd on me even though the thigh would fit. if you have really shoulders the skulls might work but otherwise kmw all the way

    Rosenberg's got it right IMO. I have both types. And I have 'really' shoulders too ;-)

    I think you'll find the KMW 1980's to be a much more forgiving pair of jeans for your first foray into raw denim - they're a very smooth, soft and forgiving denim, and the top block is cut more generously than most slim jeans for a muscular backside like yours, The pockets are cut a little looser too, so you can get your hands into your pockets the first day. Buy 1 size down from your true waist size.

    As many KMW owners have experienced here, the 1980's seem like a very slim fit at first until you wear them for a bit, and then try more slimmer fitting jeans. Eventually you'll see they're actually fairly neutrally cut and proportioned. In other words, the KMW are amazing, but aren't 'challenging' to a newcomer and don't hurt when breaking in.

    The Skulls are an amazing pair of jeans, no question, and becoming my favorites. I highly suggest, as many would here, to consider them as your second pair. You may even want to try the 5010's, which I love.
     
  7. mlyngard

    mlyngard Well-Known Member

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    I'm not angry, I'm from Philly
    Searched this thread, but couldn't find the answer. I searched google and didn't receive much luck either, so here goes: Could someone explain the functional purpose of buckle-back jeans? And how/why they originated ? I've seen them in pants as well. I assume their purpose is to prevent you from wering a belt; but, i do still see belt loops on the jeans..

    Cheers,


    To back up Rosenberg again here - the buckleback is a detail which does harken back to the days when jeans were originally made from 'anti-fit' overalls proportions, and people wore suspenders more than belts, or no belt or suspenders at all. The cinch-waist buckle also allowed the waist to be tightened on a pair of overalls, which are jeans immediate ancestor.

    Many denim enthusiasts have a deep appreciation for the heritage and reasoning for every detail still used and held true on a good pair of jeans, which is why they still look at first glance like the original workwear they were (ignoring fit...) and are the one garment still fought about so passionately.

    But a detail on $275 jeans today (to most denim enthusiasts) has to be functional or it's a useless bit of worthless flair. IMO, the patch, button style, the stitch color and selvage line are the only permissable areas where manufacturers can or should add unique non-functional touches.

    Today, the buckle and beltloops give you the option of belt or no belt, so it still has a funtional role. Plus, it helps take up any slack from a stretched out pair.
     
  8. Rosenberg

    Rosenberg Well-Known Member

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  9. Best Budz

    Best Budz Well-Known Member

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    May 23, 2009
    I'm sure this information is somewhere in this thread, but I bought a pair of raw kmw rockers about a month ago and I havent soaked them yet. I've given them medium wear in the last month, but I was wondering if I should soak them before wearing them anymore.
     
  10. Rosenberg

    Rosenberg Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure this information is somewhere in this thread, but I bought a pair of raw kmw rockers about a month ago and I havent soaked them yet. I've given them medium wear in the last month, but I was wondering if I should soak them before wearing them anymore.

    what are you trying to accomplish with the soak? if you're worried about shrinking, i'm 99% sure that denim is sanforized so shrinking should be minimal. if you're thinking they need to be cleaned after a month of medium wear, i'd be inclined to say absolutely not unless you were wearing them to work at a sewage treatment plant
     
  11. Best Budz

    Best Budz Well-Known Member

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    May 23, 2009
    what are you trying to accomplish with the soak? if you're worried about shrinking, i'm 99% sure that denim is sanforized so shrinking should be minimal. if you're thinking they need to be cleaned after a month of medium wear, i'd be inclined to say absolutely not unless you were wearing them to work at a sewage treatment plant

    fair enough
     
  12. mlyngard

    mlyngard Well-Known Member

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    Aug 10, 2009
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    I'm not angry, I'm from Philly
    I'm sure this information is somewhere in this thread, but I bought a pair of raw kmw rockers about a month ago and I havent soaked them yet. I've given them medium wear in the last month, but I was wondering if I should soak them before wearing them anymore.

    Yeah, agreed w/ Rosenberg again. I wouldn't soak. Shrinkage will be almost non-existent on KMWs (I've already soaked and dryer-dried two older pair twice to try and get shrinkage- in cold and hot).

    Nothing will be accomplished with soaking unless you want to clean them. KMW is renowned for their difficulty in getting fades. The denim isn't stiff or very starched, in fact it's pretty supple. Soaking is a must for STF/non-sanforized jeans, or to soften them from heavy starching if they're really uncomfortably stiff.

    You're better off keeping them unsoaked for as long as possible.
     
  13. DECEMBER

    DECEMBER Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    638
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    Mar 18, 2009
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    I'm thinking about getting some KMW rockers.
    My true waist measures 29.. maybe 28 and 1/2
    I'm a size 27 in APC NS.. (don't think I can button up a 26)
    and size 28 in 3sixteen slim tapered (but probably could have gone down one size cus it's stretched out about an inch or more now)

    So would I buy a tagged size 27 or 28 in KMW rockers?
    Should I go with the tagged 27, which measures a 28 waist and let it stretch out to a 29? Or doesn't work that way?

    God everytime I buy new jeans I get caught up on the term "sizing down."
    So "sizing down" isn't actually sizing down at all...?
     
  14. Sigmatic

    Sigmatic Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    191
    Joined:
    May 31, 2007
    ^ my advice to you is to size jeans based on the legs (thigh, knee, hem) use the waist measurement as a last check to make sure you can get them on.

    the waist measurement depends largely on the rise so it can be misleading.
    the waist on many denims can stretch up to 2" or more anyway.
     
  15. theom-

    theom- Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,074
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2008
    So its about time for another pair of denim for me. I have been looking around and i see my two options as:

    Naked and Famous Green Weird Guys

    or

    Another pair of indigo denim, bringing me to my next point:
    Which pair?
    RRL Slim Fits?
    KMW 1980s?
    KMW Rockers?
    LVC 505 1967?
    Ande Whall Grifters?
    3sixteen straights?
    Skull 5010?

    Trying on all of these is kind of unrealistic. I want a medium rise slim straight fit with 7.5 hem 7.75-8 knee and a 15 waist.


    I've got a pair of the lightweight crate routes, but they aren't exactly my perfect fit.
    Should I go for a pair of perfect (or close) Indigo or the NF weird guys(which fit okay on me)?
     
  16. Rosenberg

    Rosenberg Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,404
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2009
    Location:
    TX
    So its about time for another pair of denim for me. I have been looking around and i see my two options as:

    Naked and Famous Green Weird Guys

    or

    Another pair of indigo denim, bringing me to my next point:
    Which pair?
    RRL Slim Fits?
    KMW 1980s?
    KMW Rockers?
    LVC 505 1967?
    Ande Whall Grifters?
    3sixteen straights?
    Skull 5010?

    Trying on all of these is kind of unrealistic. I want a medium rise slim straight fit with 7.5 hem 7.75-8 knee and a 15 waist.


    I've got a pair of the lightweight crate routes, but they aren't exactly my perfect fit.
    Should I go for a pair of perfect (or close) Indigo or the NF weird guys(which fit okay on me)?


    the only thing i can say is that the 1980s might not be as slim as you want
     
  17. DECEMBER

    DECEMBER Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    638
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2009
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    ^ my advice to you is to size jeans based on the legs (thigh, knee, hem) use the waist measurement as a last check to make sure you can get them on. the waist measurement depends largely on the rise so it can be misleading. the waist on many denims can stretch up to 2" or more anyway.
    but a lot of times the leg measurements do not vary by much, especially on the smallest tagged sizes. For example, KMW rocker measurements: 26\t27\t9\t10\t7.25\t6.5 27\t28\t9\t10.5\t7.5\t6.5 28\t29\t9.25\t10.5\t7.5\t6.5
     
  18. moby

    moby Member

    Messages:
    19
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2009
    Hey sf, i'm looking for a jean that:
    -fits large legs. I'm not fat, but my quadriceps and pretty big. I jog a lot.
    -It would be best if they weren't too regular/straight or too skinny. something in between.
    -I'm not a big fan of those soft, cottony jeans. They don't feel like jeans to me.

    any suggestions?
     
  19. Rosenberg

    Rosenberg Well-Known Member

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    Sep 15, 2009
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    TX
    ^ try not to take too much offense to what might follow this post

    you kinda have to be way more specific. there are tons of jeans that could fit your description. how much do you want to spend?
     
  20. moby

    moby Member

    Messages:
    19
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2009
    ^ try not to take too much offense to what might follow this post

    you kinda have to be way more specific. there are tons of jeans that could fit your description. how much do you want to spend?


    oh no, please be honest. I want to spend around $50. I don't like ripped or stonewashed (is that the term?) jeans. Skinny jeans don't look good on me, and I don't want leg openings that cover up my whole shoe.
     

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