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How to Build on My Wardrobe after a Year on SF

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gsugsu, Sep 14, 2009.

  1. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    894
    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    I find SF to be a valuable resource and I have taken far more from it than I have contributed. I began to rework my wardrobe last November and I am interested in opinions on where I should go next. I do review WAYWRN and use the SEARCH function but I'm seeking some fundamental suggestions.

    I am a Dean of a health professional college at a Canadian university and I wear mainly suits and occasionally odd jackets. Given the climate, I find less need for a summer wardrobe and gravitate to fabrics that work year-round. That is not to say I couldn't or wouldn't embrace a summer wardrobe it is just not a priority at the moment. Hot weather and my suit-wearing rarely coincide. I am 5'7'' and wear a 44R or 46R depending on the maker. Jacket length is always an issue but short cuts rarely seem to work. I need to lose 20 pounds but even at my ideal weight I still require a 44R for my shoulder dimensions.

    Locally, very few independent haberdashers remain. Unfortunately, around here, Boss is the leading edge while Coppley or Samuelsohn are the traditional choices. The latter two provide a quality product but their styling leaves me wanting. There are no bespoke options here. for purchases, I am relying on SF more, EBay less and make the odd NYC trip that hopefully coincides with sales or a good selection at C21. This is where I am:

    Suits:

    1.\tRLPL 2-button charcoal glen-plaid
    2.\tRLPL 2-button medium grey chalk stripe
    3.\tRLBL 2-button solid charcoal
    4.\tJill Sander 2-button solid charcoal
    5.\tJ Crew 3/2 roll charcoal herringbone suit
    6.\tPaul Smith Mainline 3/2 roll medium grey flannel (pre-SF and soon to be retired)
    7.\tBrioni 1-button Navy peak lapel
    8.\tCorneliani 2-button navy chalk stripe
    9.\tIsaia 2-button dark brown nailhead (yes, brown is for farmer but I accessorize it with a John Deere 4320)
    10.\tMTO 2-button navy bird's eye (pre-SF and soon to be retired)
    11.\tMTO 2-button black suit (pre-SF and good enough for somber occasions right now)
    12.\tJ Crew 2 button Navy odd jacket
    13.\tJ crew 3/2 roll khaki herringone sportscoat

    Shirts - I am now dealing with Carl at CEGO for shirts and am very pleased

    Shoes

    1.\tBarker Black Archdale black wingtips
    2.\tAE Evanston walnut calf
    3.\tBorgioli Roma 4 eyelet Norvegese derby in rustic calf
    4.\tVass U-last swan neck Bordeaux calf
    5.\tCleverley bespoke captoe brown (on the way)
    6.\tJ Crew penny loafer brown (pre-SF holdout)

    So, how should I build on this wardrobe? What suits could or should be added to my rotation in terms of colour and fabric? I do not favour windowpane patterns, which probably should be avoided given my height and I do like flannel.

    How about odd jackets? I would like to replace the J Crew jackets and I'm thinking i should have more than one in navy. I do like herringbone and some tweed (Donnegal). But what else seems to be lacking here?

    The bespoke option interests me but I am reluctant given the many tragedies that show up on SF, albeit mainly from lower tier makers. Chicago is a reasonably cost-effective, direct flight so I suppose Mr. Despos would be an ideal option. I do not travel enough to take advantage of the Savile Row travelling shows.

    As for shoes, what style is missing from my rotation (which I realize is on the slim side)? I am sure that if Cleverley is everything it seems to be then I will stick to that route. I would like to acquire some chukkas or captoe boots for use with odd jackets and my office pants as well as for inclement weather. Suede or buckskin appeals to me in the former regard so should one go the Cleverley route for suede or find a more reasonably priced alternative and stick to them for leather?

    Sorry for the long post and I look forward to your responses.
     
  2. elite123

    elite123 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    215
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2008
    gsugsu,

    Your wardrobe seems to be coming along quite nicely. I have actually followed alot of your pattern over my last year and a half on SF.

    Suit-wise, you seem to be very good on dark gray/charcoal. You might want to look at adding 1 or 2 straight navy 2B notch lapel suits. I've seen some RLPL 44s floating around ebay. I picked up a plain navy super 150s over the summer for under 800. A light gray suit may fill that gap of summer suit that can be used year-round as well.

    Jackets - I would add a gray jacket. Holdfast sold an amazing Russian Twill gray that I think looks great with navy trousers.

    Shirts - CEGO is the way to go. No need to change on that.

    Shoes- Good choice with the Barker Blacks. I'm on the lookout for a 9D myself. I've been adding more black shoes to my wardrobe and find that they are quite versatile. Maybe a black cap or oxfod would be a good choice.

    Great thread gsu and good luck!
     
  3. Thomas

    Thomas Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    29,119
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2006
    Location:
    Texas
    FWIW: At this stage, I would advocate you don't shop just to fill perceived gaps in your wardrobe. Buy only the things that really move you. Just MHO.
     
  4. teddieriley

    teddieriley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,488
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    Apr 8, 2006
    Location:
    Wait, you smell that?
    You have enough clothes and shoes. No more shopping. Save your money.
     
  5. Nicola

    Nicola Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,952
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    Feb 1, 2009
    Over coat or maybe trench coat. But 10 suits is a fair number .
     
  6. bowtielover

    bowtielover Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,376
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    Nov 1, 2007
    Location:
    Cincinnati OH
    It seems you have a pretty nice wardrobe there, sounds like your ready to start expanding you casual attire.
     
  7. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,981
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    Jun 5, 2008
    no chukka boots? for shame. and i'd consider adding some double monks and ed greens to the mix.
     
  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,756
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2007
    I find SF to be a valuable resource and I have taken far more from it than I have contributed.

    Don't underestimate yourself.

    You have enough clothes and shoes. No more shopping. Save your money.

    But what if he wanted a 44R Oxxford?


    - B
     
  9. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,345
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2007
    Location:
    Opulence
    You have enough clothes and shoes. No more shopping. Save your money.
    +1
     
  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,981
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    if I were you, i'd start focusing on the belts, ties, scarf, gloves, socks, watches, wallets, pens, pocket squares, tie clip, cufflinks, briefcase(s). the little things that set you apart. these are the things that are smaller, but help diversify your wardrobe and make you feel like you are never wearing the same outfit twice.
     
  11. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    894
    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    gsugsu,

    Great thread gsu and good luck!


    Hey Elite 123, thanks for the kind words.

    FWIW: At this stage, I would advocate you don't shop just to fill perceived gaps in your wardrobe. Buy only the things that really move you. Just MHO.

    Good point Thomas. Sometimes though you need someone else to point things out that you may have missed and then you can see if that suggestion moves you.

    You have enough clothes and shoes. No more shopping. Save your money.

    Don't underestimate yourself.

    But what if he wanted a 44R Oxxford?

    - B


    +1

    Well, that's it then, no more shopping and damned if I didn't have my eye on that Oxxford now that Vox mentioned it!

    if I were you, i'd start focusing on the belts, ties, scarf, gloves, socks, watches, wallets, pens, pocket squares, tie clip, cufflinks, briefcase(s). the little things that set you apart. these are the things that are smaller, but help diversify your wardrobe and make you feel like you are never wearing the same outfit twice.

    Over coat or maybe trench coat. But 10 suits is a fair number .

    It seems you have a pretty nice wardrobe there, sounds like your ready to start expanding you casual attire.

    I did not mention coats, casual wear and accessories as I thought I had that sussed and did not want to make a long thread even longer.

    I do have a variety of overcoats in wool, cashmere and leather but I could use a few more belts though.

    Ties are well covered but I really liked those two that Vox got from ASW. I usually wear French cuffs and I have a collection of vintage and modern tie clasps and cufflinks. I do recognize that I have quite a deficit in the pocket square realm so I'm working on that. I do appreciate the benefit of accessories and how they augment one's look and I take that to heart.

    Casual wear is reasonable but truth be told when work is done most of the time I am in Carharts, a t-shirt and a ball hat working on my hobby farm but I do use RM Williams for my work boots.
     
  12. teddieriley

    teddieriley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,488
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2006
    Location:
    Wait, you smell that?
    Don't underestimate yourself.

    But what if he wanted a 44R Oxxford?


    - B


    Great, I just undermined a potential sale.
     
  13. gsugsu

    gsugsu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    894
    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    See, you should have just let me keep on spending! It's OK, although it may be heresy to some, I really don't like Oxxford anyway.
     

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