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How do you determine what collar is best for you?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dusty, Feb 12, 2005.

  1. dusty

    dusty Well-Known Member

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    ohio
    Is there a sort of formula for your neck length, circumference, etc., or do you just have to see it in action?

    Subquestion: What is the collar used on all of Jantzen's display models? Just a standard spread?
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Long neck = high collar

    The taller you are, the longer points you can take (3 1/4" is as long as anyone can possibly need, in my view)

    Round, chubby face = no button downs or club collars; longer point collars are best, spreads neutral.

    lean face = spread collars best; points bad. Tab neutral.

    Kabbaz will tell you that there is only one rule, but .. well, I will let him say it.
     
  3. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    Yes, there is only one rule: Be nice to your shirtmaker. Whatever the house style, take it. No sense forcing the poor guy to make a pattern now, is there, when some old tried, true, and boring BB knockoff will do?
     
  4. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, Dusty, but my head ceramics teacher just married a Texan named Dusty - which means she's not coming back to teach this Summer - which means I'm gonna spend half my damn Summer on a pottery wheel. And it's all your fault.

    Manton's rules are mostly fine. I don't approve of wide-faced or round-faced men wearing wide spreads or cutaways. Picture an egg on a pedestal.

    Most other styles can be adjusted in width and point length (and point circumference in the case of a round club) to accomodate most faces.

    If your neck is long, your collar should cover at least half of it - more is even better. Remember that your rear hairline need be trimmed sufficiently to remain above the collar for the entire length of time between haircuts.

    Additionally, your suit collar and shirt collar should be coordinated to result in roughly 1/2"+ of shirt collar showing above the suit in the rear.

    -------
    Edit: P.S.: What is a Jantzen? Something like an Edsel, maybe? And why would a car have a collar?
     
  5. dusty

    dusty Well-Known Member

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    I see, thanks guys. Especially you Kabbaz, for helping me despite my inadvertent ruining of your summer. Very professional of you.
     

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