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How do I hide this fabric peeping out under my suit jacket collar?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by forbritisheyes, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Feb 20, 2012
  2. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The jacket yoke and under collar have stretched making the top collar too short, circumference wise, around the jacket. This causes the top collar to rise up. The fix is to shorten the under collar. There is usually a center seam on the under collar but this may be a one piece under collar. If so, you just make a seam where there wasn't one. You may need to take in the center back seam of the jacket. The tailor will know if it's necessary. This makes the top collar longer and everything under the collar shorter and the collar will lie down. Pressing will fix it for 60 seconds and it will return. If the tailor just wants to cut off the under collar that is showing to hide it, don't. Proceed to another tailor.
     
  3. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Well-Known Member

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    Is there a detailed list of procedures I can read to test my tailor with to ensure it's being done correctly?
     
  4. cbbuff

    cbbuff Well-Known Member

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    I think he just gave it to you :D
     
  5. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Well-Known Member

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    Okay, my mom is going to fix the collar, and call her former "master" on how to do it. I pray to God that my jacket comes out as good as can be post-op.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    There are other ways to make the under collar shorter like opening the under collar drawing in the yoke and shrinking it, adding a stay to keep it from stretching, putting tape on the under collar to draw it in. It doesn't matter as long as the top collar becomes bigger/longer than whats under the collar and the work done holds up so this doesn't repeat. I would dislike being tested rather then trusted by a client.
     
  7. BobL

    BobL Member

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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2012
  8. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Well-Known Member

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    I found the following method at: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?99328-Coat-collar-lining-backing

    This will shorten the under-collar; however, it doesn't change the depth of the jacket's collar. Will this procedure need to be repeated over a span of several years(since it stretched from its original position as you say)? In the same vein, is there a way the lengthen the "over-collar"?

    **I did not mean test in a negative way. I just wanted to use someone else's expertise in this matter to verify that my tailor knows what she's doing in a polite manner.
     
  9. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Well-Known Member

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  10. The Louche

    The Louche Well-Known Member

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    I'm bumping this to see if others have more insight or experience with this (not that I don't trust Despos). This has happened on a few MTM coats of mine that are about 5 years old, and it is DRIVING ME CRAZY! After several failed attempts to fix the problem via pressing, I want to make 100% sure that I know how to communicate the fix to a tailor in order to stop this problem once and for all. The coats are un-wearable until this is fixed in my opinion.
     

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